Kusekuseni kakhulu, Meyi 27th, 2012, futhi esinye sezikwele zedolobha laseBolivia iCochabamba sinemibala egqamile futhi sinemikhosi. Amaphoyisa namasosha bazulazula endaweni, kodwa ngokusobala bajabulela iSonto ekuseni, bebukeka njengabalingisi abathile bomdlalo ohlekisayo wase-Italy kunababambeli bomthetho ngokuqinile.
Isikwele sigcwele. Kugcwele abantu besifazane bomdabu, abanye bethwele izingane emhlane, abanye bephethe amasaka kakotini, cishe bonke begqoke izigqoko.
Amakhulu abesifazane bendawo beze esigcawini ukuzobhalisa izingane zabo kanye nezingane ematendeni esikhashana agxunyekwe uhulumeni. Iningi lalezi zingane lizalwa ngaphandle komshado; okuthile okwakuyokwenyanya eminyakeni embalwa edlule umphakathi, kuze kubhekwe njengokuziphatha okubi nokuhlazisayo. Izinto ziyaguquka khathesi iminwe ikhomba ngendlela etshiyeneyo, ngesikhathi uhulumende ezama ukubhalisa wonke umuntu kungakhathalekile ukuthi ufike njani kulomhlaba, njengoba ngaphandle kokubhalisa kuhle abantwana kanye labantu abadala kabalalungelo lokuthola usizo lukahulumende.
Ngo-2005, u-Evo Morales waba ngokokuqala ngqa ukuba nguMongameli waseBolivia futhi naphezu kokuphikiswa okunonya nokuzimisela kanye nemizamo yokudicilela phansi uhulumeni wakhe emazweni aseNtshonalanga kanye nezinhlanga zabantu baseBolivia, izinto zaqala ukushintsha ngokushesha kulesi sizwe ngeningi labomdabu. eNingizimu Melika. Futhi "Inqubo" ayizange ime, ayizange yehlise ngisho nejubane.
Manje eCochabamba njengakwezinye izingxenye eziningi zezwe, idolobha kanye nohulumeni bakhuthaza abesifazane ukuba baphumele obala: babhale izingane zabo, bakhulume ngokuhlukunyezwa abebebhekene nakho emndenini nasemphakathini, bazihlolele umdlavuza webele. , ukuze bathole isifo sofuba, bafunde ukuzilungiselela bona kanye nezingane zabo ukudla okunempilo.
Esikhathini esidlule ngangingeke ngilokothe โโngithathe izithombe zabesifazane baseBolivia nezingane zabo zikhombe lutho. Kwakunezinganekwane eziphathelene nokweba umphefumulo ngamalensi amakhamera, futhi kwaba nokuntula ukwethembana. Ukube ngike ngazama ukubuza imibuzo, eminingi yayo ibingeke iphenduleke. Esikhathini esidlule, kwakuhlale kunenkungu ewugqinsi yokusola eyayintanta emoyeni, ixutshwe nokucasuka nokwesaba. Manje, kunjengokungathi inkungu isusiwe, idamu seliqhumile, futhi umunyu owanqwabelana phakathi neminyaka namashumi eminyaka usuqalile ukugeleza, ushintsha, ucela ukuboleka izindaba. Ukwesaba sekunyamalele ngokuyisimangaliso, kwathathelwa indawo ithemba, futhi izindaba eseziqalile ukuvela zazigcwele amandla.
Eziningi zezindaba zazilula futhi zikhuluma ngobuhlungu, ngabesifazane abalula nabathembekile abashiywa abayeni babo nabashade nabo, ngaphandle kwesizathu esizwakalayo lapho bekhulelwe noma lapho abanye besifazane bewela indlela yabo. Kodwa kwakukhona nezinye izindaba, lezo zokungabi nabulungisa nokuxhashazwa, zobubi emphakathini, ezigcwele intukuthelo nokuhlubuka.
โIzingane zami ezimbili zashona zisencaneโ, kusho omunye womama ababebhekene nami ngokudelela kungathi ngangijutshwe ukuba ngithwale okungenani ingxenye ethile yomsebenzi. Wangibonisa ngezandla zakhe ezinokhahlo, ezisebenza kanzima ukuthi zazincane kangakanani: โlokho okuncaneโ, wayelokhu ephindaphinda ngokungakholwa, โlokho okuncaneโ. Bese ngibheka ngqo emehlweni ami: "Kungani?"
Ngangazi ukuthi kungani futhi naye wayazi. Kwakungekho okwakungashiwo, kodwa engibheka ngandlela thize wayazi ukuthi ngangikuzwile lokho ayekusho nokuthi amazwi akhe ayezosuswa kulesi sigcawu aye emhlabeni obanzi.
Emamitha ambalwa ukusuka, imitholampilo engomahambanendlwana yayipakwe onqenqemeni lomgwaqo - eminingana yayo. Empeleni bekungamaloli amakhulu aguqulwe ngobuhlakani. Ngenyuka ngezitebhisi zomunye wabo, ngangqongqoza emnyango. Kwavuleka umuntu ngangeniswa phakathi lapho owesimame emnika ibele eligcwele ingane yakhe, ngesikhathi udokotela nomhlengikazi bemthela ngeseluleko sezempilo.
Futhi lapha, okwangimangaza kwaba ukwethembana - okuphelele futhi okuvezwe ngamandla: phakathi kukamama nodokotela, umhlengikazi nowesifazane naphakathi kwabo bonke kanye nami. Kungithathe imizuzwana nje ukuchaza ukuthi ngenzani lapha. Sabingelelana ngesizotha. Ngabuza ukuthi ngingakwazi yini ukuqopha. "Yebo kunjalo", bavume bonke. Kwaba kimina ukuthi ngibeke imingcele. Kwakulindeleke ukuba ngihlakaniphe, kodwa angitshelwanga ukuba ngihlakaniphe. Kwaqondakala ukuthi sonke sasihlangene lapha ngesizathu esibalulekile: ukusiza iBolivia nabantu bayo. Cishe udokotela wayengowaseCuba, futhi umhlengikazi wayengowasendaweni. angibuzanga; kwakungenandaba. Umuntu wangempela wamazwe ngamazwe akufanele akhathalele kakhulu indawo yomuntu, amasiko noma ezinye izimpande.
Okwakubalulekile nokho ukuthi phambi kwamehlo ami into eyayingacatshangwa eminyakeni embalwa edlule yayisenzeka ngokuzumayo: eBolivia eyake yaba mpofu futhi yahlukaniswa ngokwezinhlanga futhi yayisezingeni eliphezulu, umlungu, udokotela, wayebuka ngemfudumalo nje elula futhi engumuntu. uzwela kowesifazane wendabuko ohluphekayo encelisa ingane yakhe, embuza ukuthi โWagcina nini ukuzwa ubuhlungu, mama?โ
Waziphatha ngendlela elula, enomusa, ehloniphekile futhi enobuntu, kodwa ezweni eliye lithunjwa izithakazelo zezezimali nezomuntu siqu, ubuntu bakhe bazizwa bubucayi, njengesikhumbuzo senkathi ehlukene. Wayengudokotela futhi wayeziphatha njengaye, njengoba odokotela bekulindeleke ukuba baziphathe esikhathini esingekude kangako. Kodwa lapha njengakwezinye izindawo eziningi emhlabeni wonke, bekuvame kakhulu esikhundleni sokubuza ukuthi, โKubuhlungu kuphi?โ ukucela inombolo yekhadi lesikweletu noma idiphozithi yemali, lokho kuziphatha okuvamile kuzwakale njengokuthile okungaqondakali.
Ngesinye isikhathi udokotela wambambatha ingalo yowesifazane, ngomusa. Wayengowohlanga nesizinda esihlukile, futhi wayeziphatha njengaye, emenza azizwe ezolile futhi ezethemba. Ngemva kwesikhashana waqala ukuphendula imibuzo yakhe ngokuthula nangesibindi, njengokungathi ukhuluma nelungu lomkhaya wakubo.
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Ngalesi sikhathi ngangazi ukuthi ngiyawubona uguquko. Ngangibone ezimbalwa zazo, kanye nezimpi zombango eziningi emhlabeni wonke. Kodwa lokhu kwakuhlukile. Ayengekho amaKalashnikov, kungekho zindawo zokulwa, kodwa lokhu kwakukhulu njengamaSandinista eNicaragua โenyukaโ, ethatha iCongress, emashumini eminyaka edlule.
Ngokungafani nodokotela abathintekayo ngamaholo abo akhuphukile - eBolivia nasemhlabeni wonke - odokotela abasebenza lapha babonakala bepholile futhi beqiniseka, bekhululekile futhi benokuthula ngokusobala kubo kanye nomhlaba futhi ngaphezu kwakho konke, ngonembeza wabo siqu. Babebonakala bengenaso isidingo sokuzamazama okuyinkimbinkimbi kwefilosofi bechaza ukuthi kungani babehlohla izikhwama zabo esikhundleni sokusiza abaswele. Benza lokho kanye ababekuqeqeshelwe ukukwenza: ukusindisa izimpilo, ukunikeza izeluleko, kanye nokuba lapho kulabo abasezinhlungwini nabasosizini, akukho okunye, ngisho nangaphansi.
Ngibuka nje labโ odokotela abasebenza phakathi eCochabamba ngezwa ngifikelwa wuvalo futhi ngesikhathi esifanayo ngibonga into engapheli. Kwakufana nokubuya ekhaya usuka ohambweni olude kakhulu nolungathandeki, olugcwele izithombe ezimbi ezibonisa okuphambene kodwa ngokunembile isiqondiso umhlaba owawulibangise kuwo, noma kunalokho lapho abathumbi bawo bewuyisa khona. Ukubuya ohambweni lapho izithakazelo zezentengiselwano zimi ngaphezu kozwelo, lapho 'ukusiza' labo abadinga usizo nabasezinhlungwini kuyibhizinisi elihle futhi linethegi yamanani alo, ngokuvamile akhushulwe ngendlela ehlekisayo.
Kimina le mibono emaphakathi ne-Andes yase-Bolivia yayifana nengqikithi yemvelo yomuntu - manje esecishe yashabalala kodwa namanje ingqikithi - idlala phambi kwamehlo ami. Futhi ngangilazi kakhulu iqiniso lokuthi lena kwakuyiyona kanye inhlalakahle engangikholelwa kuyo amashumi eminyaka; kwakukhona lapha, ngesenzo, phambi kwamehlo ami. Futhi yayilula, ingokwemvelo futhi ingenangqondo.
Ngabe sengikhumbula enye yamanoveli amakhulu kunawo wonke ake abhalwa - I-Plague (Inhlupho) - ka-Albert Camus, kanye nenkulumo engenakulibaleka "Futhi bengakwazi ukuba abangcwele, baba odokotela". Ngacabanga ngomlingiswa oyinhloko, udokotela ovamile ogama lakhe linguBernard Rieux, okwathi lapho isifo siqala ukuhlukumeza idolobha lase-Algeria i-Oran, wamelana nokwethuka nokubhujiswa okungenakucatshangwa, futhi ngokumelene nazo zonke izinkinga walwa nokugula ngalo lonke ulwazi namandla akhe, elahlekelwa umkakhe. , elahlekelwa yiwo wonke umuntu ayemthanda kule nqubo, kodwa ekugcineni enqoba impi futhi esindisa idolobha lakhe. Ngenkathi ngibuka odokotela abasebenza enkabeni yeCochabamba, kwaba sobala ukuthi bona, njengoDkt Rieux I-Plague babengalwi nezifo kuphela, babelwa nobufascism! E-Cochabamba nase-Oran, babezabalazela sonke isintu.
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Ngabe sengiqalaza okunye. Ngabona ukuthi ngangibazi kahle laba besifazane. Ngangihlanganise impi yombango ePeru engumakhelwane isikhathi esingaphezu konyaka ngeminyaka yama-90s, ngase ngidlule eBolivia - leli zwe elimpofu kakhulu laseNingizimu Melika - ukusuka eNyakatho kuya eNingizimu, futhi kusukela eMpumalanga kuya eNtshonalanga izikhathi eziningi ngangingakwazi ngisho nokubala. Babehlala 'bekhona', laba besifazane abagqoke izingubo ezimibalabala nezigqoko ezimnyama - babukele buthule, bemi eduze kwemigwaqo, bethengisa izithelo ezintsha nezimpahla ezishibhile ezivela kwamanye amazwe emigwaqweni: abesifazane bomdabu basePeru, base-Ecuador, baseBolivia.
Abesifazane be I-Altiplano wayevame ukubonakala kimi njengomzimba othile wobuhlungu kanye ne-stoicism, isiko elake laba likhulu futhi manje elicekeleke phansi, lokungabi nathemba kanye nekhono eliyisimangaliso labantu ukuze basinde okubi kakhulu okungase kusetshenziswe ukuphila ezingcwecweni zakhona ezingcolile neziqhekekile.
Esikhathini esidlule, ngangihlale ngizama ukugwema amehlo abo, ngoba nganginamahloni futhi ngingazi ukuthi ngingabasiza kanjani. E-Bolivia, kwase kungamashumi eminyaka ukuvukela umbuso kuhlehliswe unomphela. Izwe laliphuma igazi buthule, libuswa abantu abangenamahloni nabase-Euro-centric elite. Kwakuwumhlaba womuntu, kodwa lapho, ngisho namadoda - noma ngokunembile iningi lawo elikhulu - ayebhekene nokululazeka nokululazeka okuqhubekayo. Uguquko oluwujuqu lwabonakala luwukuphela kwesenzo esikwazi ukunikeza ithemba elithile; ekwazi ukuketula uhlelo lwe-feudal fascist.
Emashumini eminyaka edlule, uChe Guevara wafela leli zwe; omunye wabavukeli abakhulu kunabo bonke ezikhathini zonke wayewele yedwa lapha, engenakuzisiza, elahliwe futhi ekhashelwa. Kodwa ukuba angalwi eBolivia naseBolivia kwakuyofana nokungalwi nhlobo; bekungaba ubuzenzisi obuphelele. Ngoba kwakulapha impela - kulezi zintaba ezibandayo, ezingenamoya kodwa ezinhle ezingapheli, ezindlini zobumba zobumba. Altiplano, ezindaweni ezishisayo, eziswakeme futhi ezigcwele ama-feudal ezilahlekile phakathi jungle - ihlathi - ukuthi iminyaka engaphezu kwama-500 yesihluku sobukoloni kanye nangemuva kobukoloni nobuhlanya obubonisa ubuso balo obubi kakhulu sebuhlubule bonke ubuntu nobuntu.
Kulapho kwavuleka khona imithambo kaPotosi, yikho lapho akhunyulwe khona waphucwa yonke into, izingane zakhe zifela ezimayini ngenxa yodumo lwempucuzeko yabeLungu. Idolobha elicebe kakhulu emhlabeni, idolobha lesiliva, elinabantu bakhona abaphoqeleka ukuba bafe njengezilwane zoMqhele, kanye nesiko laseYurophu elinesibindi nelikhazimulayo!
Usizi lwalaba besifazane lwalufihliwe. Eziningi zalezo zintatheli ezazibhala eBolivia nasePeru zakhokhelwa, ngokuqondile noma ngokungaqondile, ukuze zingavezi amaqiniso anonya abantu bendawo.
Yebo kwakukhona ezinye izinhlansi zokucasuka, ulaka, njengalezo ezitholakala kumafilimu kaFrancisco Lombardi, umdidiyeli wefilimu omkhulu wasePeru. Waqondisa i-โLa boca del loboโ yakhe ('Umlomo Wempisi', 1988), ebonisa 'Impi Engcolile' e-Andes yasePeru, engangiyihlanganise futhi eyangishintsha unomphela, kanye nokwesaba abantu bomdabu okwakumelwe babhekane nakho. Lapho, wabonisa ukudlwengulwa kwentombazane evamile yomdabu. Kwakuwukudlwengula okwakungathathwa njengokudlwengulwa ngamasosha ayekwenzile, ngoba intombazane yayingowomdabu - futhi emehlweni abantu basedolobheni babengewona neze umuntu. I-Lombardi ikhombisa amasosha ahlanya ekholwa ukuthi asemkhankasweni wokukhulelwa bonke abesifazane bendawo. Wabe eseba nesibindi sokubonisa ukwesabeka kokubulawa kwejaji, ukubulawa kwabantu abaningi endaweni ngenxa nje yokuba khona, futhi ekugcineni, wabonisa umfana okuthiwa uVitin Luna; umfana owangena ebuthweni ukuze akhonze izwe lakubo njengoba uyise ayenzile esikhathini esidlule. Wabonisa uLuna edakiwe, ephukile futhi edangele, ngokuzumayo wabeka umsebenzi wakhe nokuphila kwakhe engozini, ephonsela inselelo umphathi-mkhosi owayengamele ukudlwengulwa nokubulawa kumdlalo we-roulette waseRussia kwesinye sezikhathi ezinkulu nezinamandla kakhulu ebhayisikobho yaseLatin America. Enyakazisa isibhamu, ephihliza umnyango wendlu phakathi nobusuku, ememeza ebumnyameni: โYehla, uLieutenant! Yehla uma unamabhola ngempela!โ
Eminyakeni eminingi edlule ngabonisa ifilimu engangijwayelene nayo eLa Paz, umnikazi wephephandaba elikhulu lansuku zonke nendodana yeSigele. Ngambuza: โAwucabangi ukuthi ngolunye usuku kuyobe kunabantu abashaya isango lesithabathaba somuzi wakho?โ Wangimamatheka kakhulu, lapho epakisha isikhwama sakhe segalofu. โBazofika,โ kusho yena. โImpela ngelinye ilanga bayofika. Kodwa ngaphambi kwalokho, ngizobe ngizijabulisa kakhulu ngesikhathi besadla ama-shit.โ
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โZama lokhuโ, nginikezwe inkomishi yeyogathi enamakhambi endawo. "Kuhle kakhulu kuwe - konke kungokwemvelo". Izazi eziningana zokudla okunomsoco zichazela abantu bendawo ukuthi bangazihlanganisa kanjani izinto ezinempilo abanazo futhi bakhule babe ekudleni kwabo kwansuku zonke.
Ngaqhubekela phambili futhi ngacelwa ukuba ngibhalisele umkhaya wami ohlelweni oluthile lwezempilo lukahulumeni. Ngazama ukuveza indlela yokuphimisa yaseChile enyanyekayo engangikwazi ukuyiphatha, kodwa akuzange kusithene amandla isisebenzi sikahulumeni esishisekayo. โAwuhlali la? Kodwa ngokuqinisekile uyazi abanye abantu abakwenzayo. Balethe lapha, sizobatshela ukuthi babhalise; kuzuzisa bona.โ
Wonke umkhathi wawungowokuphila kobusoshiyali owenziwe waba ngcono kakhulu. Yayingenangqondo, iqotho futhi ukuba phakathi kwayo kwazizwa kumnandi kakhulu futhi kufudumele. Abantu abasebenza esigcawini babonakale bengenakho ngokuphelele ukugxeka, ukubhuqa kanye nokuzicabangela bona. Uhulumeni, abasebenzi bezokwelapha kanye namakhulu abesifazane ababesesimweni sokwamukela babexhumana ngokwemvelo nangokuzethemba. Kwakukhona ukuzola kanye nentando enhle, kodwa kwakungekho ukuzenzela - hhayi ukumamatheka okuningi okwakhiwe ngaphambili futhi kungekho nhlonipho engadingekile noma eyeqisayo.
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Eminyakeni eminingi edlule umngane wami, umhumushi nomlobi uKevin Mathewson ohlala eBrazil njengamanje, wakhumbula izinsuku zokuqala zokuvukela eNicaragua abhekana nazo eManagua:
โEngakuthola kunamandla kunawo wonke kwakungelona uguquko ngokwalo, kodwa lokho eyakudalula. Ngelinye ilanga ngangimi eceleni komgwaqo. Ibhasi lalidlula. Kwakugcwele amantombazane asemaphandleni, egqoke kahle. Ibhasi beligcwele phama. Amanye amantombazane ayengafakile izicathulo, kodwa wonke ayehlanzekile futhi ejabule kakhulu. Uyabona, babezoya edolobheni laseManagua; babezodansa. Ngokokuqala ngqรก ezimpilweni zabo babezovunyelwa ukungena ezindaweni ezazigcinelwe abantu abakhethekile kuphela ezinsukwini ezimbalwa ngaphambili. Kungazelelwe, babona ukuthi bangakwaziโฆ Kwakunokukhulu ukulangazelela nethemba kanye nenjabulo eyayiphuma ebusweni baboโฆ Lesi kwaba yisikhathi lapho ngaqonda khona ukuthi lolu shintsho lwalulungile. Lapho ngibona lawo mantombazane asemaphandleni anamahloni eya enhloko-dolobha okwavele kwaba ngeyawo.โ
Ngazizwa ngendlela efanayo, maphakathi nesigcawu semikhosi yaseCochabamba.
Kwaqhuma umculo. Abesifazane abaningi ngokuzenzakalelayo bathuthela emthonjeni wawo; isigaba sokuhlinzeka. Kuze kube yileso sikhathi, iningi labo lalazi umsebenzi onzima kuphela; babengenalo ithuba lokufunda ukudansa, kodwa babefuna ukufakwa, befuna ukuphila. Banyakazisa izinyawo zabo, bamamatheka bexolisa, baqhubeka nokuzama ukudansa. Abanye abantu bangaphandle kungenzeka ukuthi bathole ukunyakaza kwabo kuyinhlekisa, kodwa lapha, akekho owayehleka. Kwakuyisikwele sabo, idolobha labo nezwe labo. Babevivinya futhi benambitha izinyathelo zokuqala zenkululeko yabo abayisebenzele kanzima, hhayi inkululeko eyakhiwe ngaphambili futhi yadudulwa yiNtshonalanga.
Kwabanye babo, impilo yabo entsha yayiqala lapho beneminyaka engu-18 noma ngaphambi kwalokho, kodwa abaningi base beseminyakeni yawo-60. Kwakubonakala kungenandaba kangako. Bonke babefunda indlela yokuhamba, indlela yokuthatha izinyathelo zokuqala - izinyathelo zabantu abavele baqaphela ukuthi izwe kanye nomphakathi ababehlala kuwo manje empeleni kwakungokwabo, hhayi ngenye indlela.
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Ngalihamba lonke leli zwe futhi ngezwa amazwi alabo ababevumelana nalokho kanye nalabo ababemelene nokuvukela umbuso, njengoba ngenza ekuqaleni eVenezuela nakwezinye izindawo. Ngakhuluma nodokotela ababejikijela ngopende obomvu ezingutsheni zabo, bephikisana nezinguquko ezethulwa uhulumeni. Ngakhuluma nalabo ababengene shรญ embhikishweni wokulwa nomgwaqo omkhulu owawuqoshwe ehlathini.
Angivumelananga nababhikishi, ngoba abaningi babesebenzisa ikhadi lendabuko ukuze bazuze inzuzo yezohwebo nezombusazwe, noma ikakhulukazi abezindaba bendawo abaphikisayo kanye nabezindaba bamazwe ngamazwe babesebenzisa lawa makhadi. Kuphinde kwaba sobala ukuthi kunokufana okuphawulekayo phakathi kwemibhikisho ebiphikisana nezinguquko eziqhubekayo eBolivia yanamuhla kanye nemibhikisho ebilokhu inyakazisa iVenezuela kusukela uChavez eba uMengameli, kanye nase-Allende's Chile ngaphambi kokuketulwa umbuso kwezempi okwakuxhaswe yi-US ngomhlaka-9. -11-1973. Eminingi yaleyo mibhikisho yahlelwa futhi yaxhaswa uphiko olufanele kanye nalabo abathi, njengoba u-Eduardo Galeano ake asho kimi, โbakhokhelwe othile, kodwa bebengasho ukuthi ubaniโ.
Angifuni ukuya emininingwaneni yophenyo lwami - imininingwane iyaphazamisa, ngokuvamile iyashaqisa. Kule ndaba ngimane nginikeze amazwibela kulezo zikhathi ezimbalwa engangihlala kwesinye sezikwele zase-Cochabamba - izikhathi lapho ngobulula bazo kanye nobuhle obuyisimanga kwangenza, ngaphinda futhi, ngenqaba ukungakhethi. Ngemva kwaleyo mizuzu embalwa, ngendlela yami ngajoyina 'Inqubo', nginikeza ukusekelwa kwami โโngokugcwele kuguquko lwaseBolivia lwe-Evo Morales.
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Njengoba ngangisuka eCochabamba ngiya eLa Paz, indiza yezempi ye-BAE-146 yabhekana nobunzima obukhulu ekukhuphukeni kokuphakama. Kusobala ukuthi yayigcwele kakhulu futhi isuka endaweni ephakeme kakhulu, izinjini zayo ezine zabonakala zibhongela ize, zingakwazi ukukhuphula indiza. Ngemva kokusuka, yayiqhwakele endaweni ephansi kakhulu, icishe ikhothe uphahla lwezindlu. Izintaba zaziphambi kwethu ngqo futhi ngangazi ngokwanele ngokundiza ngabona ukuthi sasizokwazi ukukhuphuka noma sizophahlazeka. Ngangilazi kahle iqiniso lokuthi uma indiza ingenza umzamo wokujika ukuze igweme ukhahlamba lwentaba, yayizoshelela eceleni futhi ilahlekelwe ukuphakama kakhulu, njengoba yayindiza kancane kakhulu emoyeni omncane kakhulu. kulokhu ukuphakama.
Kwakungekho ukwethuka - ngabona ukuthi abantu abaningi ababegibele cishe babeqala ukuhamba ngendiza, bengayazi ingozi. Futhi ngangikhathele kakhulu ukuthi ngingezwa lutho njengoba ngangisebenze izinsuku eziningana nobusuku ngaphandle kokuphumula.
Ngemva kwemizuzu embalwa eshubile, abashayeli bezindiza bakwazile ukuphakama futhi sandizela phezu kwezintaba, kodwa cishe.
Isingathekiso sasicacile, ngicabanga. Yilokho kanye iBolivia eyayibhekene nakho kule nkathi eyingqopha-mlando. Yayingaphezu kwephuzu lokungabuyi, futhi yayingakwazi ukushintsha indlela yayo. Uma izwe lingashiya indlela yalo ebheke emphakathini olinganayo - ngokomlando ingqikithi yalo ngaphambi kokuba udlame lwamakoloni aseYurophu luphahlaze wonke amasiko endawo - lingavele liphahlazeke. Cishe bekungeke kube khona lutho olungasekela amaphiko alo. Okuwukuphela kwendlela kwakuwukuya phambili, ukufingqa izibhakela futhi undize phezu kwalezo zintaba ezinkulu zokumelana ezithathwe lapha zivela phesheya; ukundiza ngaphezu kwakho konke lokho kungenzi lutho okubi kanye nokuphelelwa ithemba okugcwele.
I-BAE-146 endala kanye nabashayeli bayo bezindiza babefana neBolivia, kude nokuphelela. Amaphutha enziwe nyanga zonke, masonto onke, kanye nosuku ngalunye. Kodwa indlela ilungile futhi ichazwe kahle. Manje konke kwakuncike entandweni yabo, amakhono kanye nesibindi. I-throttle egcwele, susa ama-flaps bese sikhuphuka, ama-caramba! Iyingozi? Yebo kwakuyingozi, njenganoma yini okufanele ukuphila nokulwa ngoba njalo.
"Kungakhathaliseki ukuthi kuzokwenzekani ku-Evo", kusho isazi sefilosofi sase-Argentina esingahlangana naye ebhodini elincane elihamba ngesivinini esiqhekeza intamo phakathi komngcele waseDesaguadero nedolobha lasePeru lasePuno, "iBolivia ngeke iphinde ibuyele emuva. Kungase kukhubeke, kwehlise ijubane, kodwa ngemva kwalokhu okwenzeka lapha njengamanje, ukubuya akuyona inketho.โ
Kodwa ngolunye usuku ngaphambi kwaleyo ngxoxo, ngisondela edolobheni laseLa Paz, ngangicabanga ngodokotela engahlangana nabo eCochabamba. Abantu abafana nabo bebephambili ku-'Process' yaseBolivia. Babelwela izwe; beyiphushela phambili. Babephulukisa futhi ngesikhathi esifanayo bakha ukwethembana nokuzethemba, bechaza kabusha ubudlelwano kule ngxenye yomhlaba ejulile neyasendulo. Babengebona abangcwele futhi babengazisho ukuthi banjalo - babengamavukela-mbuso nje.
E-El Alto International Airport udokotela osemusha wayengilande, umshayeli wami. Wayeqeda nje iziqu zakhe kanti ukushayela i-cab kwakungenye yezindlela zokuthi anganyakazi.
โKuhle ukubonile,โ kusho yena. โAbantu baseNtshonalanga: iningi labo lifuna ukuthi lo hulumeni awe. Bafuna ukuphinde bathathe imithombo yethu yemvelo, ukuze basigqilaze. Abafuni ukuthi iBolivia ikwazi ukuzibusa, ikhombise isibonelo emhlabeni. Leli ngelinye lamazwe acebe kakhulu emhlabeni, elenziwa laba ngelinye lamazwe ampofu kakhulu. Ngifuna ukuba udokotela, yebo. Kodwa hhayi ngenxa yesimo - ngifuna ukuba ngomunye ukuze ngikwazi ukwelapha, futhi ngoba ngifuna ukusebenzela abantu bami. "
Ngakhumbula iphosta yaseSantiago de Chile, eminyakeni embalwa edlule, enesithombe somfundi namazwi ambalwa alula: โNgifundela ukuba udokotela, ukuze ngikwazi ukuqeda ubuhlungu izwe lami elihlushwa yibo.โ
Konke kwakushintsha eNingizimu Melika. Yilokhu abantu bakhona ababekufuna amashumi eminyaka namakhulu eminyaka; yilokhu abazabalazela kona. Intando yabo yaphulwa, yadlwengulwa ngokoqobo amabutho angaphandle. Manje inkathi entsha yobumbano, yomfutho onamandla nozimisele wokwakha imibuso enobubele nenhlalo yayidlalisa umcabango wobukoloniyali kanye nangemuva kobukoloni kanye nezinto eceleni. Izwekazi lalisuka ngendlela ewubukhazikhazi, ngokuzethemba, nangobukhazikhazi.
Kwakuwuhambo oluyingozi kakhulu, kodwa kwase kusaqhubeka. Kwaba manje noma kwakungakaze kwenzeke, ngemva kweminyaka engaphezu kuka-500 yokuthotshiswa, ukweba nokuphanga.
โNgicela umeโ, ngabuza umngane wami omncane, udokotela, njengoba sehla sisuka e-El Alto, sisuka ngaphezu kwamamitha angu-4.000, siya kuleyo crater enkulukazi yaseLa Paz. Ngibone umbhalo omkhulu othi 'Ukunakekelwa Kwezempilo kwabo bonke' futhi eduze kwawo nentokazi yomdabu ekhohlakele egqoke imvunulo yayo yendabuko. Bengifuna ukuqopha isigcawu. Njengoba ngidubula, owesifazane othile wahlehla eceleni, wadalula sonke isiqubulo umzimba wakhe owawucashe ngaso ngaphambili: โfuthi kufanele kukhululeke!โ
Ngiwuthandile lo mbono. Ngayithanda le ntokazi, ingibheka ngokubhuqa kodwa ngenhlansi yobungane emehlweni ayo. Ngilithandile leli dolobha elikhulu laseLa Paz ngezansi. Ngayithanda iNtaba i-Illimani embozwe yiqhwa emkhathizwe, uphawu lwalesi siko elikhazimulayo nelimele elase liqala ukuphola. Ngangiwathanda amafulege omdabu andiza eduze kwawaseBolivia.
"Ubani ongathanda ukuphulukisa?" Ngabuza umngane wami, ngikhanyisa umCuba wami i-cigarillo.
Akaphendulanga; wamane wasikaza isandla sakhe edolobheni nasemagqumeni ase-El Alto, embozwe imijondolo.
โKuhleโ, ngisho. โUzoba mningi umsebenzi wakho lapha.โ
Wavuma ngekhanda ngokuzethemba nangokuziqhenya, ngaphambi kokushintsha igiya.
U-ANDRE VLTCHEK (http://andrevltchek.weebly.com/) โ umbhali wamanoveli, umenzi wefilimu kanye nentatheli ephenyayo. Uhlala futhi usebenza eMpumalanga Asia nase-Afrika. Izincwadi zakhe zakamuva - "Oceania" kanye "Indonesia - Archipelago Of Fear" - zichaza neo-colonialism yaseNtshonalanga ePolynesia, Melanesia naseMicronesia, kanye nobunxiwankulu obungalawuleki ngemuva kuka-1965 e-Indonesia.
I-ZNetwork ixhaswa kuphela ngokuphana kwabafundi bayo.
Nikela