Kumnyama, kumnyama bhuqe, emigwaqweni yasePort Said. Amaqembu amancane ezinsizwa abuthana phakathi nedolobha, ikakhulukazi eduze kwezimoto ezishile. Abanye abaphumuli kakhulu. Bayamemeza futhi banyakazise, โโbethukuthele.
Imililo iyavutha phakathi nemigwaqo. Ngemuva kwengxabano yakamuva phakathi kwamaphoyisa nababhikishi - noma, ngokunembile, ngemuva kwesiphithiphithi sakamuva samaphoyisa, lapho abulala khona ababhikishi nababebukele - kubonakala sengathi awekho amabutho ahlomile.
Kodwa ungalenzi iphutha: idolobha lonke lizungezwe, livinjezelwe, ngamaphoyisa kanye namasosha ikakhulukazi. Amathangi aginqike esuka ezindlini zamasosha nakuwo wonke uMsele iSuez: ukusuka eSuez City ukuya e-Ismailia, nokusuka e-Ismailia kuya ePort Said. Imilomo yezinganono zabo ikhomba izimoto emigwaqeni. Izivimbamgwaqo zikhona yonke indawo. Edolobheni lasePort Said uqobo, izimoto ezihlomile zivale yonke imigwaqo emikhulu engena iphuma phakathi nendawo. Amasosha abambelele ezimbanjeni zawo, alungele ukudubula.
Kulowo bumnyama sipake imoto yethu onqenqemeni lomgwaqo bese sidlulela ePort Said General Hospital.
Kukhona iphunga elinamandla lomchamo emaphasishi; izibani zifiphele futhi amaphasishi agcwele iziguli kanye nemindeni yazoโฆ amadoda alimele, abanye besifazane bayakhalaโฆ kuyisiphithiphithi; abahlengikazi nodokotela abangenakubalwa bazama ukubuyisela okungenani ukuhleleka okuthile.
Ngingena esikhaleni esikhanya kalufifi esifana nefilimu esabekayo yaseHollywood yezinga lesithathu: izidumbu eziphuma kumatiyetha enkathi ephakathi, zonke ziminyene emagumbini okuhlinza angcolile, ashaqisayo avalelwe izindonga ezingcolile ezihlotshiswe ngezimbobo ezivulekile.
"Leli yigumbi lethu lezimo eziphuthumayo", umhlengikazi osemusha, izinwele zakhe zimbozwe isikhafu, amavolontiya. โFuthi lawa ngamathiyetha ethu amathathu okuhlinza.โ
"Uqinisekile?" Ngiyabuza, ngokwengqondo.
โI am positiveโ, ephendula. "Ngisebenza lapha."
Udokotela osemusha obukeka ekhathele uhlola isimo ngomshini: โIndawo egcina igazi isezingeni elihle futhi sinemithi eyisisekelo eyanele. Kwaba namahemuhemu okuthi siphumile kuyo yonke imithi edingekayo kanye nemishini, kodwa lokho akulungile. Sibhekene nezinye izinkinga, kodwa akuyona enye yazo.โ
Lezo 'ezinye izindaba' zihlanganisa iqiniso lokuthi akekho owayelindele ukuhlasela okunjalo ngesikhathi esifushane kangako.
โLe yinhlekelele enkuluโ, kubabaza uDkt Ahmed Attia ovela komunye wemitholampilo ezimele edolobheni. โAmaphephandaba athi: โIPort Said idinga igazi nemithiโ, kodwa lokho akulungile. Izinkinga ebesibhekene nazo lapha, ikakhulukazi ezinsukwini ezimbili zokuqala zokubulala, zihlobene nalokho esikubiza ngokuthi 'ukuntuleka kolwazi lwezokwelapha'. Odokotela abaningi babengazi ukuthi kufanele belashwe kanjani amanxeba okudutshulwa nokunye ukulimala okubi kakhulu. Iziguli kudingeke ukuthi ziphuthunyiswe esibhedlela saseCairo University nezinye izibhedlela ezweni.โ
Ngiyabuza ukuthi bangaki abantu abashonile.
โAke siboneโ, udokotela u-Attia uyabala. โOkungenani 42. Ngosuku lokuqala, 31; ngosuku lwesibili abangu-7; kwase kuba nabantu abane abashona ngenxa yokulimala abakuthola ngosuku lokuqalaโฆ futhi sibale cishe abantu abangu-900 abalimele kuze kube manje.โ
"Abantu basafa," kusho omunye ngemuva kwethu.
โKonke kubi,โ kusho uDkt Attia. Bese ethi: โLapha, sineqembu lamaSocialistsโฆโ
โNgingomunye waboโฆโ ngisho, ngimamatheka.
Uza eduze kwami, indoda ecishe ibe ngamamitha amabili ubude, futhi angigone ibhere elilodwa elinamandla. โBuyaโ, uthi; โbuyela ePort Said, sizokhuluma. Ngizokutshela ukuthi kwenzekani ngempela lapha. Kodwa manje, asihambe siye emsebenzini.โ
Emuva ePort Said General Hospital, ngiyiswa ukuyobona iziguli eziningi, izisulu zodlame.
Ngivakashela u-Ahmed Mamdouh, onamanxeba amabili ezinhlamvu esifubeni.
Uyakhononda: โAngazi ukuthi kwenzekeni! Ngingumfundi wesikole samabanga aphezuluโฆ Bengisazofunda ekilasini lami futhi amaphoyisa aqala ukudubula abantu, ngaphandle kwesixwayiso. Ngashaywa kabili.โ
Kwelinye ikamelo eliminyene indoda ibuhlungu, izungezwe umndeni wayo. Kusobala ukuthi ubelwela impilo yakhe. Udutshulwe ezinso. Ngiyenqaba ukungena, ngihlonipha ubumfihlo bakhe nobuhlungu bakhe. Kodwa ngokushesha izihlobo zakhe ziyangilandela, zimemeza: โSiza uzothatha izithombe, ubone ukuthi zisenzani kithi! Uneminyaka engu-36 ubudala, uyindoda yomndeni. Ubezosebenza ngesikhathi amaphoyisa edubula.โ
Ngokuphazima kweso ngizungezwe isixuku esikhulu sabantu. Wonke umuntu ufuna ukukhuluma: iziguli nezihlobo zazo, abahlengikazi, odokotela ngisho nomphathi wesibhedlela.
Kusemnyama bhuqe uma sibuyela emgwaqeni. Imililo iyavutha futhi sizwa kuqhuma izibhamu emakhoneni.
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Emahoreni ambalwa ngaphambili, ngesikhathi ngiqunga isibindi ngisuka eCairo ngiya ePost Said, ngigwema amathange, izimoto zezikhali, nenqwaba yezindawo okuhlolwa kuzo amasosha, uKhomishana Omkhulu we-UN Wamalungelo Abantu, uNksz. I-International izwakalise ukukhathazeka ngesimo esiwohlokayo e-Egypt.
Isigaba sakamuva sombango ePort Said siqubuke ezinsukwini ezimbalwa ezedlule ngemuva kokuthi kukhishwe izigwebo zentambo kubantu bendawo abangu-21 ngokubandakanyeka kwabo ezibhedeni, ezashona abantu abangu-74 ngemuva komdlalo webhola phakathi kwe-Al-Masry Club kanye ne-Al- I-Ahly SC yaseCairo ngoFebhuwari 1st 2012. Ngalolo suku, amakhulu abalandeli bendawo bahlasela abalandeli beqembu elizinze eCairo. Amaphoyisa kuthiwa awazange enze mizamo yokuhlukanisa izinhlangothi zombili.
I-BBC ibike ukuthi abalandeli balabo abagwetshwe intambo bahlasele ijele ababegcinwe kulo, bezama ukubakhulula. Kuchitheke igazi, iningi labo bekuyigazi lababhikishi, yize kuphinde kwashona amaphoyisa amabili kule ngxabano.
Ngokushesha ngemva kwalokho, kwaqubuka izingxabano ezintsha nezibulalayo njengoba amabhokisi alabo abashona ngesikhathi bebhekene namaphoyisa ethwalwa emigwaqweni.
Ingxabano iyaqhubeka.
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Angifuni ukuhlaziya isimo sezepolitiki jikelele e-Egypt kulo mbiko. Angifuni ukubhala ngokubusa kukaMongameli u-Mohamed Morsy, noma mayelana nokuthi yini ngempela ebangela imibhikisho yakamuva eCairo nasesifundeni saseSuez Canal. Ngizofinyelela kulokho ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, mhlawumbe ngesonto elizayo, endabeni ende nenemininingwane eyengeziwe yalolu shicilelo.
Angihambanga lapha ukuze ngisekele lolu naloluya hlangothi. Inhloso yohambo lwami lokuya e-Egypt olungakhokhelwa kwakuwukuqeda ukuqoqa amavidiyo efilimu yami eyidokhumentari, nokuqhathanisa ukuvukela umbuso kwase-Egypt nalokho okwase-Indonesia ngo-1998 kanye namavukelambuso anqobayo e-Latin America.
Kodwa njengomlobi wempi owafika ngenhlanhla endaweni yengxabano, ngizizwa nginesibopho sokwenza lokho enginomuzwa wokuthi kuwumsebenzi wami kubafundi bami emhlabeni wonke: ukubazisa, ngisebenzisa kokubili amagama nezithombe, ngosizi olunzima enginalo. sehlele abantu baseGibhithe. Nginomuzwa wokuthi lokho kubaluleke kakhulu maqondana nezindawo ezifana nePort Said, ngoba, njengoba ngitsheliwe futhi njengoba ngizibonele ngawami, akukho nhlobo uphawu lwabezindaba abazimele nabathuthukayo lapho.
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Noma ngabe ukuphi umthwalo wemfanelo walesi simo samanje, kuwubulwane obukhulu ukubeka idolobha lonke elinabantu abangaphezu kuka-600,000 ngaphansi komthetho wezempi, ngakho-ke livinjezelwe.
Okucacayo wukuthi, besatshiswa noma bengasatshiswa, amaphoyisa avuke umbhejazane ehlasela abantu abangahlomile. Njengoba le ndaba 'izonyatheliswa', kwashona abantu abangaphezu kuka-50 kwalimala abangaphezu kuka-900 ezinsukwini ezimbalwa nje. Lezi yizibalo ezijwayelekile zamadolobha asephenduke izindawo zempi.
Umbuzo ophusile uthi: ngabe iGibhithe isempini? Uma kunjalo, ubani olwa nobani? Uma kuyimpi, izakhamuzi kufanele zilethwe endaweni ephephile, futhi zivikelwe, zingadutshulwe ngamaphaphu, ubuchopho nezinso 'yizigqila zomthetho'.
Ukubuyela esenzweni esasusa udweshu, ukugwetshwa ukufa kwabantu abangu-21: Kungakhathaliseki ukuthi ifilosofi yomuntu ithatha kanjani isigwebo sentambo, ukugwebela abantu abangu-21 intambo edolobheni elilodwa ngosuku olulodwa phakathi nesikhathi esishubile njengaleso sikhathi. I-Egypt ibhekene nokuthela uphethiloli emlilweni, mhlawumbe okubi nakakhulu. Abalandeli besigwebo sentambo - futhi baningi kule ngxenye yomhlaba - kufanele babhekisise ukuthi kwenzekani ePort Said, futhi bazibuze ngobuqotho ukuthi ingabe ukubulawa kwabantu 'kuyawuvikela umphakathi' ngempela noma ukuthi kuwufaka esiphithiphithini esibi nakakhulu. .
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Njengoba sishayela sibheke e-Ismailia nase-Port Said, inani elingapheli lezinqola zamasosha nezikashi emgwaqweni zashaqisa sobabili mina nomshayeli wami, okungenzeka ukuthi wayengumfundi wase-Indonesia wefilosofi enyuvesi yendawo. Ayikho enye indawo engangiyazi, ngaphandle kwase-Djibouti, mhlawumbe, engaziqhayisa ngokuba nenani eliphezulu kangaka lokufakwa kwezempi, okuhlanganisa izikhumulo zezindiza, izisekelo futhi ubani owaziyo ukuthi yini enye, eduze komgwaqo owodwa.
Bekungekho kuphela izizinda zezempi ezisebenzayo phakathi kweCairo ne-Ismailia, kodwa futhi nenqwaba yezikhumbuzo nezindawo zemilingo yezempi egcwele amathangi, izindiza nemifanekiso yamadoda anobuso obungalawuleki ehlasela isitha esingaziwa. Ngokuvamile kwakunzima ukwenza umehluko phakathi kwezinto zangempela - nezisebenzayo - kanye nezinto eziyinhlekisa nezinsalela ezazisebenza njengezingxenye zesikhumbuzo 'samaqhawe-amasosha' endawo. Uma ubheka konke, umuntu akasoze aqagela ukuthi noma nini lapho iGibhithe liye empini, imiphumela ibikude nenkazimulo.
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Manje amabhaleki asewavulile amasango awo futhi amathange emi eduze nomgwaqo omkhulu - inqwaba yawo, amakhulu awo, mhlawumbe ngaphezulu.
Endleleni siyama esikebheni esidala esiya eSinayi, eduze kwebhuloho elisha. Ngifuna ukuyiwela futhi ngikhulume nabantu abakuyo mayelana nokungqubuzana kanye nesikhungo somthetho wezempi, kodwa ngaphambi nje kokuba ngidlule ngimiswe ngomunye wamakhulu amadoda alenga ngokungenanjongo ngasogwini lweSuez Canal. .
โAwukwazi ukuwela,โ kusho umsizi.
โKungani?โ Ngiyacela. โNgawela okungenani kabili ezinsukwini zakudala, endleleni eya eCairo ngisuka eGaza, ngesikhathi se-Intifada. Kungani kungenjalo manje?"
Amasosha aphezulu athatha ipasipoti yami futhi aqale ukudlulisa yonke imininingwane 'kojikelele', njengoba ngitshelwa, ngocingo. Ngemva kwemizuzu eyi-10 ekhandlayo yokupela zonke izinhlamvu ezisekhasini lokuqala lepasipoti yami, le ndoda iphendukela kimi ngobuso obuhluleke ngokuphelele: โUngubani igama lakho?โ
โIngabe leli liyiGibhithe elisha?โ Ngiyazibuza ngiphimisela.
โMhlawumbeโ, uphendula ngomshayeli notolika wami wase-Indonesia.
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Engikubone ePort Said kuzohlala nami isikhathi eside.
Idolobha, noma ingxenye enkulu yalo, libhujiswa: hhayi ngokulwa kodwa ngokunganakwa nosizi. Iningi lezindawo zasemadolobheni zinezindlu ezishaqisayo, eziwohlokayo, ezidilike ingxenye, azifani nalezo zase-Alexandria (elinye iphupho elibi lasemadolobheni) neCairo (elingcono kakhulu). Udoti ukhona yonke indawo. Amanye amafulethi asevele adilika, kanti amanye asezowa. Zibukeka zifana, nakuba zimbi kakhulu, kunalezo ezakhiwa ePhnom Penh phakathi nokubusa kweKhmer Rouge.
Kunezikhala eziningi ezingenalutho phakathi kwezakhiwo. Bagcwele udoti. Kubonakala sengathi akukho lutho umuntu angakujabulela lapha: kokubili abadala kanye nezingane bazulazula bengenanjongo.
Izimbongolo zidonsa izinqola. Izingane ezincane zigijima ngaphandle kokugadwa, eziningi zazo zicela.
Futhi iPort Said iyidolobha elicebe kakhulu, noma okungenani elinye lamadolobha acebe kakhulu ezweni! Ngo-2009 nango-2010 iPort Said yayikleliswe endaweni yokuqala phakathi kwamadolobha aseGibhithe ngokwe-Human Development Index.
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Ngisondela insizwa emi ekhoneni. "Izinto zifika kanjani lapha ebusuku?" ngiyambuza.
Angibuke angasho lutho. โIzolo ebusuku bekuliwa endaweni yase-Al Arab. Kwafa umuntu oyedwa. Mhlawumbe ngaphezulu.โ
IPort Said, kanye nezwe lonke lase-Egypt, ibonakala ibhidlika njengalezo zindawo ezikhahlamezekile. Kodwa lokhu akukhona ukubola okusha; akuzange kuqale ngeHhovisi likaMongameli waseMorsy. Cishe sonke esazi iGibhithe sayibona iza, amashumi eminyaka. Umuntu kwakuzodingeka aqondise ngokwedlulele futhi abheke eceleni ngenhloso ukuze angaboni.
Manje izinto zibukeka zimangalisa kakhulu, vele, noma okungenani zenziwa ePort Said. Phakathi kwakho konke ukubola nokubola kunenqwaba yezivimbamgwaqo namathangi ahlezi endaweni yokulwa. Izinsizwa eziqinile zihlezi phezu kwazo, zibhekise amabomu kubantu bazo esikhundleni sokwenzela izwe lakubo okuthile okuwusizo njengokwakha izinkundla zokudlala zezingane, amabhuloho, izibhedlela nezikole.
Amasosha aseGibhithe amakhulu kunawo wonke e-Afrika nase-Arab World kanye ne-10t ngobukhulu emhlabeni, kanti i-Egypt iyizwe elimpofu kakhulu. I-Human Development Index (UNDP, HDI, 2012) iyinombolo 113 isuka emazweni ayi-187, futhi iyehla. Manje isingaphansi kwePhilippines, ngisho neMongolia neGabon.
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Ngithwebula inkundla yezemidlalo i-Stad B?r Sa'?d - yona kanye indawo eyadala usizi olukhulu ngo-February 2012. Ikhiyiwe manje, 'ihlobisa' izindonga zayo ezimbi futhi ezisabekayo.
Bese-ke ngingena embhikishweni owodwa omkhulu ekushoneni kwelanga; abantu bemasha bebheke enkabeni yedolobha.
Abanye banginyakazisa ngezandla. Abanye bafuna ukukhuluma. Abafuna ukukhuluma baningi.
Ngesinye isikhathi ababhikishi baqala ukuphephezelisa amafulege phambi kwamalensi ami, bafome, futhi abanye baze bangigone. Kubonakala sengathi yimi ngedwa intatheli engeyena um-Arab edolobheni. Ngokombono, kufanele ngizizwe ngisongelwa, kodwa angikwenzi. Ngiphathwa kahle. Babengethemba. Futhi ngiyabathemba.
Indoda eqinile incike emotweni yethu futhi iyamemeza: โIPort Said manje isiyizwe elivaliwe; kuyindawo yempi! Babulale abantu abangaphezu kuka-50 okwamanje. Amaphoyisa ayasibulala. Amaphoyisa adubula abantu abangu-1.000 XNUMX emilenzeni, nasemehlweni abo! Amaphoyisa abesebenzisa isisi esikhalisa unyembezi nezinhlamvu. Woza uzobona! Vele umbonise! Asinazo izinhlamvu, nezikhali. Abezindaba zabo bathi senza kanjalo - kodwa woza uzobheka noma ubani kithi!โ
Omunye umbhikishi uyangimemeza: โKufe abantu abahlanu namuhla; abanye bashaywe umdubuli kambayimbayi. Manje thina - abaseGibhithe - sesifana nawo wonke ama-Arabhu, siphila ngokwesaba nobuhlungu!"
Intombazane, esheshayo futhi ekhulumela phansi, idonsa umkhono wami. "Ngingaba iso lakho, ePort Said?" Ukhuluma isiNgisi esihloniphekile, futhi igama lakhe nguFatimah.
Eduze kwakhe kumi umfowabo omncane, obukeka enamahloni ngenxa yesibindi sikadadewabo. Sonke sicwila endaweni yokudlela encane, yendawo.
โNgeke ngisakwazi ukuya emsebenzini,โ kusho uFatimah. โNgiyasebenza futhi ngiyafunda; Ngifuna ukuba yintatheli njengawe.โ Ucabanga isikhashana, abese eqhubeka: โKuyahlazisa lokhu abakwenza kithi. Sonke sasiphikisana nesinqumo senkantolo yaseGibhithe, ngokumelene nezigwebo zentambo. Iningi lethu lalingamelene nohulumeni wamanje. Manje sesikhona.โ
Isikhathi sokufika ekhaya singo-9PM. Siyithola indlela yokuphuma edolobheni ngesikhathi esifanele, kodwa ngaphambi kokuba sihambe, uFatimah usenza sidlule esiteshini samaphoyisa lapho abantu ababili badutshulwe bafa muva nje. Enkabeni yedolobha kumnyama bhuqe. Imililo emincane iyavutha, ikhanyisa izipoki zezimoto ezishile. Ngizwa sengathi noma yini ingenzeka, noma nini.
Sishayela kancane kakhulu ukuze singashayi muntu, ukuze singanyakazi imizwelo. Ukunyakaza okukodwa okungalungile kungase kubangele inhlekelele. Izandla ezimbalwa zishaya isivalo semoto yethu. Asikwazi ukubabona ebumnyameni. Amathonsi ambalwa nje kaphethiloli kanye nomentshisi futhi sasingeke sisaba khona.
Bese behamba uFatimah nomfowabo. Ngizama ukubaphusha imali, ukuze bagibele itekisi. โNgifuna uphephe,โ ngigcizelela. Benqaba ngeqholo. Sihlukana ngezindlela.
Manje sesigijima ngokumelene nesikhathi. Isikhathi sokufika ekhaya sisondela ngokushesha, kodwa akekho ongasitshela indlela yokuphuma edolobheni, njengoba imigwaqo eminingi emikhulu ivaliwe.
Ekugcineni sifika ebhulohweni.
Mina nomshayeli wami sikhathele, kodwa phambi kwethu kukhona okunye okwesabekayo - amakhilomitha angu-250 omgwaqo wase-Egypt ohamba ebusuku, okushayela ukuzibulala kanye nezingozi ezimbi. Sidlula ezindaweni zokuhlola amasosha namaphoyisa; amathange abo abheke kithi kaningi.
Idolobha elingemva kwethu liyopha ngokoqobo, kuwo wonke amanxeba alo amabi enziwa esikhathini esidlule, aphinde anyakaziswa ezinyangeni nezinsuku zakamuva.
Njengoba siwela ibhuloho ngicabanga ngodokotela nangoFatimah nomfowabo - abantu abamnene, abangani bami abasha engibashiya ngemuva edolobheni labo elivinjezelwe.
"Bheka?" Ngicela umshayeli wami wase-Indonesia, umfundi wefilosofi.
โHmmm? Apa? Ini?"
"Ucabangani ... obone namuhla?"
Acabange isikhashana. โKuhle ukuthi size.โ Ukhuluma ngodokotela noFatimah. โSinenhlanhla; sahlangana nabantu abamangalisayo!โ
Impela indlela eyodwa esemthethweni yokufingqa usuku!
Njengoba sihamba, eCairo, omunye wojenene kanye noNgqongqoshe Wezokuvikela u-Abdul Fattah Al-Sisi uthi: "Isimo samanje sizoholela ekuweni kombuso." Kungani ekusho? Ingabe usabisa uhulumeni?
Njengoba sishayela sibheke eCairo, uDokotela u-Attia nozakwabo beqa umthetho wezempi ngesibindi, bamasha kusukela ngo-9pm kuqhubeke, futhi ekugcineni bafinyelele ukuqedwa kancane kwesikhathi ebesibekelwe ukubuya ekhaya.
Ngigqolozele umgwaqo ophambi kwami, ekhanda lami, ngokungaziphathi kahle; okungenani okwesikhashana, ngizama ukufaka ipolitiki kulo lonke udaba. Kulokhu angiphumeleli. Kwake kwaba kanye, indaba yami ilula kakhulu: Ngibika edolobheni elicekelwe phansi. Ngimane ngibike engikubona ngamehlo ami. Ngikwenza ngoba kufanele, ngoba nginesibopho sokukwenza. Futhi ngiyavuma, ngobuqotho, ukuthi kulokhu ngizama kuphela ukuchaza lokho amehlo ami athathayo, hhayi lokho engikuqonda ngokugcwele.
U-Andre Vltchek ungumbhali wamanoveli, umenzi wefilimu kanye nentatheli ephenyayo. Wakhuluma ngezimpi nezingxabano emazweni amaningi. Incwadi yakhe nge-Western imperialism eSouth Pacific - Oceania โ ishicilelwe ngabakwa-Expathos. Incwadi yakhe evusa inkanuko nge-post-Suharto Indonesia kanye nemodeli ye-market-fundamentalist ibizwa ngokuthi โI-Indonesia - Iqoqo leziqhingi Zokwesabaโ (Pluto). Ngemva kokuhlala iminyaka eminingi eLatin America nase-Oceania, u-Vltchek njengamanje uhlala futhi esebenza eMpumalanga Asia nase-Afrika. Angafinyelelwa ngeyakhe iwebhusayithi.
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