Umthombo: TomDispatch.com
NguLukas Bischoff Ifoto
I-Alaska Denali National Park / Shutterstock.com
Kutshanje, bendiseHomer, eAlaska, ukuze ndithethe ngencwadi yam Ukuphela Kweqhwa. Imizuzwana emva kokuba ndibulele abo bandizise kwikhampasi encinci yeYunivesithi yaseAlaska, ndisonganyelwe ngumxube wosizi, uthando, kunye nentlungu malunga nemeko yam yokwamkelwa - kunye neplanethi ngokubanzi - ndalila.
Ndizamile ukuthetha kodwa ndacela uxolo ndithathe imizuzwana ndiziqokelele. Kulucelomngeni kum, nangoku, ukucacisa ukuhlanjwa kweemvakalelo neengcinga ezathi ngequbuliso zandigubungela njengoko ndandimi kwelo qonga kubusuku obufudumeleyo, obunomoya, obunemvula kumazantsi eSingasiqithi weKenai phakathi kweqela elilungele ukufunda ngakumbi malunga nokuba yintoni na. kwenzeka kuMhlaba wethu esiwuthandayo.
โUxolo ngalo nto,โ ndatsho ekugqibeleni emva kokuphefumla okumbalwa, njengoko ilizwi lam lalivakala livakala livakala, โkodwa ndiyazi ukuba uya kuqonda. Uhlala kweli lizwe kwaye uyazi njengokuba ndisenza ukuba xa iAlaska ingena egazini lakho, ihlala apho. Kwaye ndiyithanda le ndawo ngentliziyo yam yonke.โ Uninzi lwabaphulaphuli ababekwelo gumbi babesele benqwala yaye umntu omnye wayesele eqalise ukukhala.
Ndahlala eAlaska ishumi leminyaka, ukususela ngowe-1996, yaye bekusegazini lam ukususela kunyaka ongaphambi koko xa ndandiqala ukubona iDenali National Park kunye neAlaska Range emangalisayo. Enyanisweni, izahluko ezihlanu kwezisithoba zencwadi yam entsha zibekwe e-Alaska kwaye isihloko sayo esibuhlungu luhlobo oluthile lwesaphetha kuthando lwam oluhlala luhlala lwelizwe elikumantla welizwe. Ngaloo mzuzu ngo-1995 xa amafu ahlukana ngokoqobo ukuze abonise ingqungquthela ephakamileyo yaseDenali kunye nokusasazeka kwayo okumangalisayo kwee-glaciers kwabonisa uthando ekuqaleni kokubona. Enyanisweni, inkoliso yehlobo emva koko ndandidla ngokutyelela olo mmandla kwakunye namanye aseAlaska, iintaba-mlilo zaseMexico, iKarakorum Himalaya yaseMzantsi Asia, okanye iAndes yaseMzantsi Merika.
Kwaze, ngehlobo lika-2003, kwiinyanga ezininzi emva kohlaselo lwabalawuli bakaBush e-Iraq, ndamamela iingxelo zikanomathotholo ezingokuqala kokuhlaliswa kakubi kwamaMelika kulo mhlaba ndisuka ententeni eDenali ngelixa ndisebenza ngokuzithandela kwiNkonzo yePaki. Kwakunjalo, ngokumangalisayo ngokwaneleyo, ukuba ndaqala ukuva ukutsalwa kwe-Iraq - okanye endaweni yesikhewu esisikhewu kumajelo eendaba aqhelekileyo xa kufikwa kwinto eyenziwa ngulo msebenzi kubantu baseIraq. Emva koko ndagqiba ekubeni ndihambe ukusuka emkhenkceni ukuya kubushushu, ukusuka eDenali ukuya kuMbindi Mpuma, ukufumanisa okwenzekayo apho kwaye ndinike ingxelo ngayo.
Olo bizo lwentaba lungaqhelekanga lwandikhokelela kumsebenzi wobuntatheli owanditsalela kude neAlaska yam endiyithandayo, ubukhulu becala obungenabo ubukho bomntu, andizange ndabufumana kwenye indawo. Kwaye njengoko ndandihamba ukusuka kwindawo yayo ekhethekileyo, imvakalelo yokuba imozulu yayisele iphazamisekile ngeendlela ezimangalisayo apho yayinamathele kum kwiminyaka yam yokubika imfazwe. Ingcinga yomkhenkce ehlala isihla kwindawo yam yangaphambili yasekhaya yandikhathaza kwaye ngandlel 'ithile yanditsala kwiimfazwe zaseMelika zanaphakade ukuya kolunye uhlobo lwemfazwe - kwiplanethi ngokwayo - kwaye phantse ishumi leminyaka yengxelo yemozulu.
Ndabaxelela abaphulaphuli konke oku, ngamaxesha athile ndinqumama ukuze bangaphindi ndilile ngenxa yosizi oluye lwazalwa ngokuyinxenye ngenxa yokushukuma komlilo wamadlelo, imbalela, umkhenkce onyibilikayo okhawulezayo, iilali zomthonyama eziselunxwemeni ezinyibilikela elwandle, nomkhenkce ophela ngokukhawuleza. Kwaye ungalibali a Trumpian lapdog yerhuluneli ethi, kanye njengomongameli wayo othandekayo, ibonakala ingenako ukucutha iinkonzo ngokukhawuleza ngokwaneleyo okanye ukusebenza nzima ngokwaneleyo ukuze ivule ngakumbi le meko intle ukugrumba, ukugawulwa, kunye nongcoliseko (nangona ukwanda kokungathandwa).
Ngobusuku obungaphambi kwe-20 kaNovemba, ndathetha kwiYunivesithi yaseAlaska e-Anchorage kwaye yayiyi-48 degrees Fahrenheit (kwaye kunetha, kungekho khephu), igcwele. 20 degrees ukufudumala kunobushushu obuphezulu obuqhelekileyo baloo nyanga. Kwaye yinyani leyo eye yayinto eqhelekileyo apho, nangona isithathu esiphezulu sorhulumente singaphakathi kweArctic Circle. Oko ke, kubonisa enye into entsha: โUkukhulisa iArctic,โ leyo indlela ukuba izibanzi eziphakamileyo zesi sijikelezi-langa zifudumala ngokuqikelelwa kabini ngokukhawuleza kobubanzi obuphakathi. Ngamanye amazwi, i-Alaska ikwi-crosshairs yokuphazamiseka kwemozulu.
Beka enye indlela, abaphulaphuli endandithetha nabo kuloo nyanga kunye nabo bonke abahlobo bam e-Alaska ngoku bahlala kwinto evakalelwa ngathi yimeko engapheliyo yomothuko njengoko izinto ziqhubeka kwimeko yabo ngesantya se-warp.
I-Alaska, iNqaku eNtsha
Akuyomfihlo ukuba inani elikhulu lezazinzulu zemozulu ngoku buhlungu kwiplanethi kunye nekamva lomntu, abanye bade bachaze iimpawu zabo njengoguqulelo lokutshintsha kwemozulu ye-Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder, okanye i-PTSD. Uninzi lwezazinzulu endiye ndadliwano-ndlebe nazo ngencwadi yam zatsho kakhulu. UDan Fagre, osebenzela iUnited States Geological Survey eGlacier National Park, wayeqhelekile. Xa ndambuza ukuba uziva njani ngelixa ebukele imikhenkce (eyathiywa igama layo le paki) inyamalala - kulindeleke. ukuba engekho ngo-2030 - waphendula wathi, "Kufana nokuba lijoni elizimisele ukulwa, kodwa ngokwefilosofi, kunzima ukubukela into oyifundayo inyamalala."
Kwaye ayizizo izazinzulu zemozulu kuphela ezinjengaye. Abanye abahlala kufutshane neendawo apho utshintsho lwenzeka kakhulu kubonakala ngathi baneempawu ezinjalo. โAwunakukholelwa ukuba bekunjani ukuba seAnchorage kwihlobo elidluleyo,โ wandixelela umhlobo wam uMat Rafferty xa sasidibana kweso sixeko ngentsasa endandibuya ngayo ndivela eHomer. "Sabona ama-90 degrees ngoJulayi 4th kwaye emva koko, kamva ehlotyeni, umsi womlilo wawunzima kakhulu ngezinye iintsuku wawungakwazi ukubona ngaphaya kwesitrato esisedolophini."
Isazi sendalo esingqongileyo kudala sisebenza ukukhusela iAlaska kumaxhalanga okutsalwa, uMat, njengam, uthandana nobuhle bendalo bendawo. Ndiye ndahamba naye ukuya kwindawo ekude yaseAlaskan kwaye ndicinga ngaye njengomntu onomdla kwaye ongakhathaliyo xa kufikwa kumsebenzi wakhe, nokuba angakanani amathuba okuphumelela. Kodwa ndimamele xa echaza ukushukuma kwemozulu kutsha nje, andikhange ndikwazi ukuzibamba kodwa ndicinge ngodliwano-ndlebe endilwenzileyo namalungu osapho e-Iraq awayephulukene nabantu esibathandayo kuhlaselo lwasemkhosini wase-US. Abantu abane-PTSD - kwaye ndiyakwazi oku kumava am obuqu ngayo - badla ngokuphindaphinda ukubalisa amabali malunga nomonzakalo abakhe bawafumana. Yindlela yethu yokuzama ukuyiqhuba.
Yayiyiloo nto kanye awayeyenza uMatt, owayengengomntu ugxininiswa kakhulu ngaloo ntsasa, nto leyo eyandothusayo. โSasinemilambo kumzantsi-mbindi weAlaska eyayishushu kakhulu isalmon eyayisifa ukuhlaselwa kwentliziyo,โ uqhube watsho, engekayeki ukuba aphefumle. โAmanzi omlambo ayefikelela kuma-80 degrees kweminye yawo! Amanzi ayengama-80 degrees! Ngaba unokukholelwa oko? Kwakukho amashumi amawaka eesalmon ezifileyo ezidada ngesisu kwimilambo emininzi. Ndenze uhambo lokupakisha-raft kwiiNtaba ze-Talkeetna ndinganxibanga nto ngaphandle kwesikipa kunye neebhulukhwe ezimfutshane! Bubudenge obo! Uyayazi indlela aqhele ukubanda ngayo amanzi emilanjeni apha. Yafumana ngokoqobo kushushu elangeni kwafuneka sitsale size sihlale phantsi komthi emthunzini!โ
Ubalise izinto ezininzi endandisele ndizazi, kuquka nokuba umkhenkce wolwandle lweArctic wanyibilika ngesantya esirekhodiweyo nokuba, ekwindla, i-permafrost yayinyibilika ngexabiso elalingachazwanga elinye. iminyaka 70. Kunxweme loLwandlekazi lweArctic kumantla eAlaska, iidolophu ezineminenga ngokwesiko zisebenzisa iiseyile ze-permafrost ukugcina, ubudala, kwaye zigcine ukutya kwazo okupholileyo unyaka wonke - i-Inupiat iyisebenzisela iitoni zomnenga kunye nenyama ye-walrus - ngoku ibafumana bedibene kunye. amanzi kunye nokuntshula ngundo enkosi kwi ukunyibilikisa i-permafrost.
Ngaloo Septemba, uMat wandixelela, wayenengxaki yokudakumba. โNdiphelelwe lithemba, njengoko bekubonakala ngathi kukho i-apocalyptic ngokwenene apha,โ waqhubeka ngokucothayo nangokuzolileyo, ephulula ingalo yakhe kwinto ebendicinga ukuba luhlobo lokuzithuthuzela. Ukuchitha ixesha elingakumbi ukucamngca, ukwenza yoga, kunye nokufumana podcasts luncedo zokomoya uye, wongezelela, ibe isinyanzelo kuye - kwaye ukude yedwa ukuba phakathi Alaskans njengoko imozulu emazantsi ngokubonakalayo efudukela emantla.
Ngaloo mini eAnchorage, ndamisa kwivenkile yam endiyithandayo ukuze ndijonge imiqulu yamva nje kwilizwe. Omnye wazo, Wedwa phezulu: Ukunyuka kweDenali ekufeni kwaseBusika, wandibamba iliso. Umhloli weArctic uLonnie Dupre wenze imbali ngo-2015 ngokudibanisa iDenali ngoJanuwariโฆ eyedwa. Yayiyinto engakholelekiyo ayibhalayo kwincwadi yakhe, kodwa umzuzu endingenakuwulibala kuxa wayebalisa evaleleke ententeni yakhe kuloo ntaba ikwiimitha ezili-11,200 31 ebudeni boqhwithela olwathabatha iintsuku. Ngaxa lithile, weva isandi esingathi ngamatye amancinane agibisela intente, wavula uziphu wocango, wakhupha intloko, wothuka wakufumanisa ukuba, nge-35 kaDisemba, kwakuneqhwa, kungekho khephu. Sithetha malunga nomzuzwana apho iqondo lobushushu eliphakathi kobo kuphakama bekufanele ukuba libe yinto efana ne-XNUMX degrees ngaphantsi kwe-zero.
Yayibuhlungu intliziyo yam ukwazi ukuba imozulu enje ngale paroxysms yayithwaxa nkqu neDenali, intaba, emi phezulu kwaye ikufuphi neArctic Circle, eyabuguqula ubomi bam ngokunditsalela eAlaska xa ndandikwiminyaka yamashumi amabini. Nangona yonke into endiyaziyo ngoku, isandimangalisa.
Ndikho ke, njengabo bahlobo bam abasenyongweni, ndibalisa eli bali kuye nabani na oya kuva. Ndiyazi ukuba oku kuya kuvakala phezulu kubafundi abangaba-Alaskan, kodwa nokubhala oku kuzisa iinyembezi emehlweni am. Akufanelanga ukuba kube njalo. Akukho nto yenzekayo apho, xa sithetha ngokwemozulu, namhlanje yinto ebesikhe sacinga ngayo โnjengendalo,โ nangona ngoku iyinto entsha.
Ukuva uninzi lwala mabali ngelixa undwendwela kungqineke kuninzi kakhulu ukuba ungangeni, njengoko besazi ukuba yintoni ngoku eqala ukwenzeka kwisalmon, iibhere, ixhama, kunye nezinye izilwanyana zasendle zazo zonke iintlobo. Ngenxa yokutshintsha kwemozulu, ezo zidalwa ziqalisa ukufuduka zisuka kwindawo ezazifudula ziyimimandla yamakhaya ngenxa yokunqongophala kokutya okuqhelekileyo. Kwaye yonke loo nto, ngendlela yayo, ibuhlungu.
Ngexesha intetho yakutshanje kwiYunivesithi yaseAlaska, eAnchorage, URick Thoman, ingcali yemozulu kwiAlaska Centre for Climate Assessment and Policy, ibonise ushwankathelo olubi lweemeko ezitshintshe kakhulu kulo lonke ummandla wethu osemantla. Kwiminyaka yakhe engama-30 kunye neNkonzo yeMozulu yeSizwe eAlaska, uThoman ubukele njengoko imozulu kwilizwe lakhe iphazanyiswa yingxaki yemozulu yeanthropogenic. Imvelaphi yasePennsylvania, uxelele abaphulaphuli ukuba bafunda njani malunga nehlabathi elahlukileyo kwimisebenzi esusela kwibali elifutshane likaJack London lenkulungwane yamashumi amabini elithi "Ukwakha uMlilo" kwincwadi kaBarry Lopez. Amaphupha eArctic wamkhokelela eAlaska. ILondon, umzekelo, yayibhale ngendawo apho amaqondo obushushu angama-70 ayeyinxalenye yobomi bemihla ngemihla. Ebuhlungu wathi: โKodwa inyaniso ikukuba, imeko-bume echazwe kwezi ncwadi ayisekho.โ Wongeze wathi, โInzima ngokwenene loo nto. Kodwa yile nto sinayo, yile siphila kuyo.โ
UThoman wathetha ngendlela, enkosi ngamanzi ashushu kakhulu, uLwandle lwaseBering lufumana imfuduko enkulu yobomi baselwandle, ngelixa ilizwe ngokwalo, njengomhlobo othandekayo, phakathi kwengxaki yezempilo ekungekho mntu usemagunyeni uzama ngokwenene. ukunyanga.
Akumangalisi ukuba yonke le nto indishiya ndiziva ndiphelelwe ngamandla. Umothuko ngamnye omtsha wemozulu uvakala ngathi uvuthelwa ngumzimba. Okanye obunye ubungqina bokuba ndiphulukene njani nomntu endimthandayo. I-Alaska, ngamanye amazwi, ibandezeleka ngokufa kwemozulu ngewaka, ngelixa ndisokola mihla le ukwamkela inyaniso entsha: ukuba urhulumente sele etshintshile ngokungenakulungiseka.
Incopho yeRainbow
Amaza anzulu othando kunye nonxunguphalo sele eqalisile ukutyhubela kum njengoko inqwelomoya yam yayisiya eAnchorage xa โโolu hambo lwaluqala. Yaye iimvakalelo ezinjalo zaqhubeka kuphela ngexesha endandilichithe apho. Ixesha kunye nabahlobo abadala abanyukayo libonakalise ukuba buhlungu, njengoko akuzange kube kudala ngaphambi kokuba singakwazi ukuzibamba kodwa sithethe ngotshintsho esele lusenzeka, nanjengoko sasicwangcisa uhambo oluya kwiintaba zaseAlaska kwixesha elizayo.
Ngosuku lokugqibela, ndaqonda ukuba kufuneka ndibe ndedwa kwezo ntaba. Bendiphathele nezixhobo eziyimfuneko kumaqondo obushushu okuhamba ngasekupheleni kukaNovemba, okanye ubuncinci ngendlela endizikhumbule ngayo kwiminyaka endandihlala apho: iikramponi, izembe lomkhenkce, izambatho ezongezelelweyo ezishushu zekhephu elinzulu kunye nobushushu bentaba. oko bekumele ukuba kukwishumi elivisayo (nangaphandle kokuthathela ingqalelo into yokuphola umoya).
Ngaphambi kokuba kuphume ilanga ngaloo mini, ndenjenjeya ukusinga emazantsi ukusuka eAnchorage kuhola wendlela iSeward njengoko wawusithela ngasemanzini aseTurnagain Arm. Ndandisingise kwindlela eyayiza kundibeka kwiiNtaba zeChugach, enye yeendawo endandizinyathele kuzo.
Iiblues ezithambileyo eziluhlaza kunye nombala othambileyo webhotolo wakhanyisa isibhakabhaka ngaphambili njengoko ilanga lasebusika eliyonqenayo laliphuma. Ngelixa ikhephu lisagubungele iincopho zeentaba ezijikelezileyo, thoba phantsi imibala kuzo yabuna ukusuka kumhlophe oqaqambileyo ukuya kumdaka kunye nohlaza - ayimangalisi into yokuba amaqondo obushushu apha abeshushu kakhulu kwaye ikhephu linqabile kulo nyaka ukukhokelela ebusika. .
Ndadlula iindawo ezininzi apho, phakathi kwiminyaka yee-1990, ngendandisele ndiqabela umkhenkce kwiingxangxasi ezikhenkcezileyo ngeli xesha lonyaka. Ngoku, zazibonakala zomile emathanjeni kunye namaqondo obushushu ashushu kakhulu ukuba ungabumba umkhenkce.
Emva kokuba ndifikile kumkhondo wam, ndanyuka ndedwa ndaya kwincopho ekufutshane. Ngenxa yomkhwa, ndaqalisa ukunxiba ibhatyi enzima, kodwa kungekudala ndayikhulula, kunye neeglavu zam, kumaqondo obushushu angaphezu kwengqele. Ndandingayiqhelanga le nto kwaye yayivakala ingaqhelekanga ukuguqula imikhwa yam yakudala njengoko ndandinyuka.
Ndifumene ukuphakama ngokukhawuleza. Kwisithuba nje seeyure ezimbalwa, ndandikwinto eyathi ekugqibeleni yabonakala njenge-Alaskan kum, iimeko zasebusika zokwenyani njengoko ndandigqobhoza ekhephini- okuthetha ukuba imilenze yakho igqobhoze rhoqo kwikhephu elingaphezulu ukuya mhlawumbi emadolweni okanye phakathi kwethanga-ubude. - ndisenza indlela yam ukuya encotsheni. Ndandimane ndinqumama ukuze ndiphefumle ivumba lemithi ndize ndibukele ikhephu elibhabhayo ngamathubโ athile lisiya kutshona kwintlambo engezantsi.
Incochoyi yayigqunywe likhephu. Xa ndifika apho, ndaqaphela ngokukhawuleza ukuba ndileqa ubusika - oko kukuthi, ubomi bam obudlulileyo kunye namaphupha - ndinyuka ezi ntaba ngolu suku lokugqibela lokutyelela kwam, ndifuna ukufumana i-Alaska engasekho.
Ndimangaliswe ngumbono omangalisayo we-360-degree, ndithatha iifoto zeencochoyi zekhephu ezindijikelezileyo, ndisela yonke into, ngaphambi kokuba ndihle ndibuyele kwikhaya lam eWashington State ndibuyele kubomi obuguquguqukayo bemozulu kwiplanethi evuthayo. apho ndiya kuqhubeka ukuphupha iAlaska endandikhe ndayazi. Bendisazi ukuba ndiza kucwangcisa ukunyukela kwixesha elizayo apha, ngelixa ezinye zazo zihlala zinjengoko kwakunjalo.
Kungekudala ngaphambi kokuba ndikhwele inqwelomoya yam egodukayo ukusuka kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya sase-Anchorage, ilifu elisibekele emantla lacinywa, libonisa i-silhouette emhlophe kaDenali emhlophe ngokubhekiselele kumqolo oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka. Ndema apho, ndimangalisiwe, phantse isiqingatha seyure ndingakwazi ukuwasusa amehlo am kuloo ntaba. Kuphela xa kwaqala ukuba mnyama kwaye uDenali wayengasabonakali ndakwazi ukuzivumela ukuba ndihambe, njengoko ndandisula iinyembezi.
Dahr Jamail, a TomDispatch njalo, ufumene imbeko eninzi, kubandakanywa iMbasa yeMartha Gellhorn yoBuntatheli ngomsebenzi wakhe e-Iraq kunye neMbasa ye-Izzy ye-2018 yeMpumelelo eBalaseleyo kwiMedia eZimeleyo. Incwadi yakhe entsha, Ukuphela komkhenkce: Ukunikela Ubungqina kunye nokuFumana iNjongo kwiNdlela yokuphazamiseka kweMozulu., yapapashwa kulo nyaka. Ukwangumbhali we Ngaphandle kweNdawo eluhlaza kwaye Intando Yokuxhathisa.
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