ʻO ke ahiahi ahiahi a ke kū nei au ma luna o kahi mea hana, ʻoiai ua haʻalele ʻia no kekahi manawa, ʻo Israeli bunker.
Ma o ka'u lens Nikon hiki ia'u ke ike maopopo aku i ka hae nui o Suria e hili ana me ka hanohano i ka makani. Ua kokoke ka hae, kokoke loa, akā no ke aha lā ʻaʻole i laila - ʻo Suria kēia, e like me ke kānāwai o ka honua.
ʻO kahi e haʻi nei ka hae, ʻo Suria. Ma hope o ka hae, ʻo Suria; a ʻo Suria kahi aʻu e kū nei i kēia manawa, ua uhi a haʻalulu i ka makani anuanu e hiki mai ana mai nā mauna mai.
He ʻike maka, a puni iaʻu, he ʻike! Ma mua pono - luku ʻia a haʻalele ʻia - nā koena o nā hale a me nā hale o ke kūlanakauhale Suria o al-Qunaitra. Ma ka ʻaoʻao hema, ʻo ka UN, a ʻoi aku ka pololei, ka waihona UNDOF. Aia nā kaʻa kaʻa keʻokeʻo a me nā kaʻa pale māmā ma hope o ko lākou ʻāpana; aneane like me ka poe mawaho o Goma, Kivu Hikina, ma DR Congo.
Eia naʻe, ke noho nei ka waihona UN ma ka mea i kapa ʻia ʻo Demilitarized Zone, a i ʻole DMZ. Aia ia ma waena o nā laina UNDOF 1974 o Alfa a me Bravo. Ma o ka DMZ holo ʻālohilohi a hou Israel barbed, high-voltage, stereotypical, a me kona ʻālohilohi - melancholy - pa uea.
Ma luna aʻe o kēlā haunaele, ma ka piko o ka mauna, e hoʻomoe ana i kahi pou pūʻali koa nui o ka ʻIseraʻela, i hoʻolako ʻia me nā radar, nā mea hoʻolohe a me nā antenna. He lōʻihi, hoʻokahi kilomika paha ka mamao, akā ʻo ka leo e hana nei ua like ia me ko ka pipi nunui. He mea ʻino maoli nō ia – e like me kekahi kiʻi paʻi kiʻi ma luna o ka hoʻouka kaua; he moku kaua i kau ʻia ma luna o ke kuahiwi.
Ke paʻi nei au i nā ʻauwaha o ka bunker; Ua huli ka piko o ka mauna i hale kiaʻi, a laila kekahi mau mea ʻeleʻele kahiko, a me kēlā mau uwea ʻālohilohi hou. “Pino! Nā Mines!” Ua kākau ʻia, manaʻo wau ma ka ʻuhane o ka ʻike honua, ma ka ʻōlelo Hebera, English a me Arabic. Aia kēia mau hōʻailona a puni iaʻu. Ke hoʻāʻo nei au ʻaʻole e hele mamao loa mai nā ala nui, ʻoiai ma ʻaneʻi au e hele hewa - ikaika loa nā kiʻi, hoʻowalewale loa.
ʻO ka loio kanaka ʻIseraʻela, ʻo Ms Lynda Brayer, nāna i hoʻokele me aʻu mai Haifa, ke noho nei i loko o ke kaʻa. Manaʻo paha ʻo ia he pupule koʻu. Me kona hopohopo a me kona mau kue, ua hookele au i keia Nissan liilii i kekahi mau puu, e nana aku ana i Suria; Ua hoʻokele au iā ia ma kahi kokoke i nā pūʻali koa ʻIseraʻela; alanui a ʻaʻohe alanui.
Akā, ʻaʻole hiki iaʻu ke lawa - ʻoi aku ka hewa o nā kiʻi. ʻO ka ʻoiaʻiʻo holoʻokoʻa o kēia ʻoihana - ka noho ʻana o ka ʻIseraʻela ma Golan Heights - he pupule, ʻoiaʻiʻo, a ma kāna ʻano hewa ponoʻī - 'kūpono'.
A laila hoʻi mai iaʻu i kēlā ʻo wau huhū. He mau lā wale nō ma mua, ma Ianuali 30, 2013, ua hoʻouka ʻo ʻIseraʻela i ka ʻāina o Suria, me ka hoʻopōʻino i kahi hale ma waho o Damaseko, me ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā mokulele kaua. Wahi a Reuters:
Ua kiʻi ka ʻoihana haole i ke poʻo o ka pūʻali koa UN ma Golan Heights i noho ʻia e ka ʻIseraʻela e hoʻopuka i ke kūʻē i kahi lā ma hope o ka hahau ʻana o ka ʻIseraʻela i ka mea a Suria i ʻōlelo ai he keʻena noiʻi pūʻali koa a ua ʻōlelo nā diplomats he convoy mea kaua e hele ana i Lebanona.
"Ua paʻa ʻo Suria i ka ʻIseraʻela a me ka poʻe nāna e mālama iā ia i loko o ka Security Council i ke kuleana piha no nā hopena o kēia hana hoʻomāinoino a hōʻoia i kona kuleana e pale aku iā ia iho, kona ʻāina a me kona aupuni," i ʻōlelo ʻia e ka televise Suria.
Ua haʻi aku ka Pelekikena Suria ʻo Bashar el-Assad i kekahi mau lā ma hope mai: "Hiki iā Suria ke pale aku iā ia iho mai nā "hoʻoweliweli o kēia manawa ... a me ka huhū."
No laila, eia wau, ua ʻike nui ʻia, e ʻaʻahu ana i koʻu ʻaʻahu ʻōmaʻomaʻo, e kū ana ma luna o kahi bunker Israeli, e kū pono ana iā Suria ma o kaʻu mau kiʻi kiʻi nui. 'Aʻole naʻauao loa kēlā', ʻo wau i ʻōhumu me ka holo ʻana i lalo o ka puʻu no kahi uhi.
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Nani ka Golan Heights, nani! Nani ka ʻoluʻolu ʻōmaʻomaʻo a me nā ao ʻino nui, e apo ana, e like me ka mea hōʻoluʻolu palupalu, nā piko o nā puʻu.
Nani ke kaumaha, ka ʻulaʻula, ka nani o Golan Heights! ʻO kēlā mau pale kaua pōhaku ikaika, e like me nā paia o nā hale kākela Inca kahiko; ʻO kēlā kahe mau o nā lako kaua o ka ʻIseraʻela - kēlā mau kaʻa a me nā 4 × 4 a me nā kaʻa - a puni, kēlā mau pā pōhaku inoa ʻole i hoʻopuni i nā hale a me nā kauhale a me nā kūlanakauhale.
Ua nele loa i kēia manawa. Hoʻokuʻu au i ke kaʻa, pepehi i ka ʻenekini a hoʻolohe: ʻAʻole au i lohe i nā manu, ʻo ia wale nō ka haʻalulu mau mai nā puʻu a puni.
“Ma ka ʻāina i noho ʻia ʻo Golan Heights, ua kipaku ʻia ka hapa nui o nā kānaka; me ka hoʻomāinoino a me ka hana ʻole", ua haʻi ʻia iaʻu e Joul Jammal, he loio ʻIseraʻela. “ʻO kēia ʻāina ʻo Suria i noho ʻia e ka ʻIseraʻela, ka nui o ka poʻe Arab Druze; ka poe koa a me ka haaheo, ka poe i pio ole i ka hana no nā makahiki he mau makahiki. Hoʻokumu ka Druze i kahi hui pili loa a e like me Bohras ke kū nei lākou i kekahi o nā lālā o Ismailis. Ke ʻōlelo nei kekahi mau manaʻo he poʻe Muslim maoli ʻo Druze, ʻo kekahi ʻaʻole lākou.
Wahi a kekahi, ʻo ka noho ʻana o Golan Heights he 'malū', ʻo ka poʻe Druze e hauʻoli nei i kahi kūlana kiʻekiʻe o ka noho ʻana, ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻe ma mua o ka hapa nui o nā ʻāina o ka ʻāina, me Suria ponoʻī. ʻO ka Economist Ua hoʻopaʻapaʻa ʻo ia e hoʻihoʻi ʻo ʻIseraʻela i ka Golan Heights i Suria, e loaʻa ana ka nui o kona poʻe kamaʻāina i ka maʻi maʻi Hong Kong.
He mau loiloi hoʻomāinoino loa kēia.
Ma mua o ka 1967 Six Day War, ʻo ka heluna kanaka o Golan Heights he 145.000 mau kānaka, me kekahi mau tausani o ka poʻe mahuka Palestinian. Ua koi aku ka ʻIseraʻela i ka hapa nui o nā kānaka kūloko e holo. ʻO 7.000 wale nō i koe, a ua hoʻopaʻa ʻia kēia mau mea ma kahi liʻiliʻi o nā kauhale.
Ua hoohioloia he mau haneri kauhale a me na kamaaina, a ua haawiia ka nui o ka aina i ka poe Iudaio.
ʻO ke kūlanakauhale nui loa o Suria ma ka ʻāina - ʻo Al-Quneitra - ua noho ʻia ma 1967, hoʻi i Suria i 1974, akā ma mua o ia, ua hoʻopaʻa ʻia a hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka lepo.
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I kēia manawa ʻo Kibbutzim a me ka ʻIseraʻela hoʻonoho ʻana i ka ʻāina. ʻAʻole wale kekahi ʻoihana mahiʻai. ʻO Merom Golan lāua ʻo Ein Zivan, ʻaʻole mamao loa mai ka palena a me kahi hoʻomoana o UN, ua like ia me kekahi mau pā kaua o kēia wā, nā kaiāulu i pale nui ʻia.
Ke hoʻolaha ʻia nei ka mahiʻai ʻo "Organic beef" ma ke ala nui. ʻO ka hōʻailona he idyllic a hoʻohuli ʻoe i ka huila a holo i luna i ka puʻu, e hoʻokipa wale ʻia e ka puka pani a me ka uea ʻala. Hoʻolaha ʻia ʻo Ortal Winery ma ka huina me ke alanui e hiki aku ai i Ortal Community. Ke holo nei ʻoe i kēlā ʻaoʻao, akā ʻaʻole koke, ma kahi o kahi hale waina nani e ʻike ai ʻoe i kahi puka metala nui a kaumaha, me nā kāmera nānā a me ka manaʻo weliweli.
"He outpost kēia", kūʻē ʻo Ms Brayer, "ʻaʻole ia he ʻāpana o ka ʻoihana kaiāulu. He ʻokoʻa loa ia mai ka mea a mākou e ʻike ai ma West Bank. "
Pono mākou e pahu. ʻOkoʻa ke kinoea, ʻaʻohe kahu i ʻike ʻia. Ua piha i ka lolouila, a hūnā ma hope o ka pā. ʻOiai noʻu, ʻoi loa kēia i ka ʻenehana.
ʻAʻole koke, kū ka kaʻa koa ma hope o mākou. "Maikaʻi paha ʻoe?" ua ninauia mai makou.
"Maikaʻi," wahi aʻu. "Maopopo iā ʻoe pehea e hana ai i kēia?" Kuhi wau i ka pamu. E wehewehe ana ke koa. ʻAʻole ʻo ia e nīnau i nā kumu o ko mākou noho ʻana ma kēia wahi. He kūpaʻa ʻo ia, mālama ʻia, akā aloha. Ua hāmama koʻu pukaaniani a aia ʻekolu mau kāmeʻa e waiho ākea ana ma ka noho hope. Pono e aʻo ʻole e ʻike. Hoʻomaopopo ke koa. Akā, ʻaʻohe ona manaʻo.
Ma India, ma Pakistan, ma Congo - ua paʻa mua wau a lawe ʻia i ka hale hoʻopaʻa no ka nīnau ʻana. Maanei, aia ka pūʻali i ka mana piha a ʻaʻohe makaʻu. Ua ʻike ʻia au i koʻu kū ʻana ma luna o ko lākou hale moe, e kiʻi ana. ʻAʻohe mea e pilikia.
Nīnau au i ke koa e pili ana i ka bunker.
“He mea haalele ia; i kēia manawa. Ke nīnau nei ʻoe no kahi paio a puni? ʻAʻole, ʻaʻohe mea - ʻaʻohe mea e hana nei. ʻAʻohe mea hoʻonāukiuki mai ka ʻaoʻao o Suria… ʻAʻohe hoʻonāukiuki no nā makahiki. "
"ʻOiai e holo ana nā mokulele ʻIseraʻela i Suria, i kekahi mau lā i hala aku nei?"
"Ua mālie loa ma ʻaneʻi", hōʻoia hou ʻo ia. "Me he mea lā ʻaʻohe mea i hana."
He keiki ʻōpio ʻo ia, makaʻala, makaʻu. Ke pane pōkole nei ʻo ia i kaʻu mau nīnau, me he mea lā e kū ana ʻo ia i mua o kahi papa. Ua ahonui kona hoa; me he mea la e holo wikiwiki ana.
"E kala mai, pono wau e holo", nalu mai na koa ia'u.
Holo mākou ma ka monument e hoʻomanaʻo ana i kahi mea i kapa ʻia ʻo "679 Brigade". Aia kekahi hana bellicose, a ua kahakaha ʻia kekahi moʻolelo i loko o ka pōhaku. Aia kahi pahu kaʻa Israeli i hoʻokuʻu ʻia ma kahi kokoke. Pono au i hoʻoikaika kino. Lele au a hopu i ka pūkuniahi me nā lima ʻelua, a laila kau au i luna no kekahi manawa. Hana wau i kekahi mau huki huki. ʻO kahi a pau, a me koʻu noho ʻana ma ʻaneʻi, he mea kupanaha, Kafkaesque.
Ua piha kahi kahua kokoke i nā kaʻa ʻIseraʻela e lawe ana i nā antenna kiʻekiʻe. Huli au, hoʻi i ka puka komo a kiʻi i nā wahi holoʻokoʻa. Ua hamama na mea a pau; me he mea la aohe mea huna.
Akā hoʻi i Haifa, ua ʻōlelo mai ʻo Joul Jammal iaʻu: “Me he mea lā ʻaʻole makaʻu ka pūʻali i nā mea hoʻolaha. Makemake lākou e hōʻike i kēia mau mea ma ke ʻano he 'ʻoihana hoʻomālamalama'. Hiki iā ʻoe ke kiʻiʻoniʻoni a paʻi kiʻi i ka mea 'i hāmama'. Akā i ka wā e pepehi ai lākou a i ka wā e luku ai lākou i nā hale, pepehi lākou i nā mea hoʻolaha i kēlā me kēia manawa.
Mahalo mākou i nā ʻāpala ma kahi hale liʻiliʻi. Aia kahi hiʻohiʻona maikaʻi loa i Suria i noho ʻole ʻia mai ʻaneʻi. ʻAla a me nā keri – ʻo ia ka mea kaulana ʻo Golan Heights.
A kaulana nō hoʻi no ka kipaku nui ʻia o kona heluna kanaka! Aia kekahi māla waina ma kahi kokoke, ma mua pono o ka pā uea ʻeleʻele weliweli. Ua pau koke koʻu aloha i ka waina maikaʻi, no kekahi manawa.
"Ua noho mālie ma ʻaneʻi", ʻakaʻaka ka mea kūʻai aku. "ʻO nā leo wale nō a mākou e loaʻa ai ma ʻaneʻi ʻo nā ʻenekini kaʻa, a me ke kani ʻana o nā lekiō a me nā radar ma luna o ka puʻu ma laila".
Ma lalo aʻe, ʻike mākou i kahi hale kiaʻi a me kahi pūkuniahi o kekahi pahu kahiko, e kū pono ana i ke awāwa a me ke kūlanakauhale Suria o al-Quneitra. Ua kanu ʻia i loko o ka honua, a i kēia manawa 'hoʻonani ʻia me nā kiʻi kiʻi. He mau minuke e holo ana i ka ʻākau, a aia nā wahi ʻino o kahi pūʻali koa Suria kahiko. Kiʻekiʻe ka mauʻu ma ʻaneʻi, a pau ka hāmau.
Hoʻokahi kilomika hou aʻe, a ke ʻike koke nei au i nā wahi ʻino nui o kahi hale: kahi pūʻali koa, a i ʻole he kula haʻalele?
Paʻa au i ke kaʻa a hele wāwae a puni nā puddles hohonu. A laila ʻike wau iā lākou: nā koa ʻIseraʻela, he commando holoʻokoʻa, mākaukau nā pū mīkini, piʻi i nā paia, e pāʻani ana i nā pāʻani kaua ʻano ʻē. Ke hoʻoikaika nei lākou.
I kekahi manawa e ʻike lākou iaʻu. Hele mālie kekahi koa iaʻu.
“Ua maikaʻi nā mea a pau?” Eia ka ninau like, a me ka like ole hoalohaloha.
"Maikaʻi," wahi aʻu, e kuhikuhi ana i ke ʻano decomposed monstrous. “He aha kēia?”
"He kahua kahiko o Suria," wahi āna.
"Hiki iaʻu?" Ke kuhikuhi nei au i ka lens ma ke commando.
"ʻOiaʻiʻo", hoʻokuʻu ʻo ia i nā poʻohiwi a hele aku.
"Hey," kahea wau iā ia. "Pehea ka kokoke e hiki ai iaʻu ke hele i ka palena ke hele au ma kēia ala?"
"Hohonu nā puddles," ʻakaʻaka ʻo ia. “A ʻaʻole ʻoe e komo i nā kāmaʻa. E kaʻa aku i ka ʻākau a hiki iā ʻoe ke noho ma ka pā.
"A puhi i kaʻu hoki ma nā tausani o kāu mau volts", wahi aʻu.
"Pcisely", ʻakaʻaka ʻo ia.
'He hoʻohenehene', manaʻo wau; 'he hoʻohenehene koa'. "Mahalo," wahi aʻu.
Hoʻi au i ke kaʻa. Holo au i ka ʻākau.
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"ʻAe, hiki iā ʻoe ke hele a hiki i ka palena", wahi a kahi kanaka, kahi pilikua, a me kahi kiaʻi, ma ka puka komo o ke alanui koa e hiki aku ai i ka palena me Lebanona. He Druze ʻo ia, he kamaʻāina. ʻAʻole ʻo ia e ʻakaʻaka; ʻAʻole ʻo ia e hoʻomakeʻaka. Aia mākou ma Majdal al-Shams, kahi kūlanakauhale i māhele ʻia me 9 tausani kānaka, ʻo ia ka Druze 'kauhale nui' ma Golan.
“Hiki iā ʻoe ke hele e ʻike i ka Puʻu ʻUla. Ma laila e hui ai nā ʻohana kaʻawale, nahaha; kahi e hiki ai iā lākou ke hoʻololi i nā maka, a hoʻōho kekahi i kekahi ma o ka uea lāʻau.
Nīnau au iā ia e pili ana i ka noho ʻana o Golan Heights. ʻAʻole ʻo ia e kānalua i hoʻokahi manawa:
"He Suria wau," wahi āna. "Makemake au e hoʻihoʻi ʻia kēia wahi i Suria!"
Kahaha au; ʻAʻole makaʻu ke kanaka e hōʻike i kona manaʻo. Haʻaheo ʻo ia a lōʻihi a paʻa. Hāʻawi ʻo ia iaʻu i kona inoa, aʻu i makemake ʻole e hoʻohana.
ʻAʻole like me ka Palestinians o West Bank a me Gaza, ʻaʻole pono ka poʻe ma aneʻi e noi i nā ʻae hana e hele i ʻIseraʻela. 'Anexed, incorporated territory' kēia. Mai ka makahiki 1981 i hāʻule ai ka Golan Heights ma lalo o ke kānāwai kīwila o ka ʻIseraʻela, ua hoʻokomo ʻia i loko o ka ʻōnaehana Israeli o nā ʻaha kūkā kūloko. Hiki i nā kama'āina ke hele e like me ko lākou makemake; hiki iā lākou ke hana ma Haifa a i ʻole Tel Aviv. Hiki iā lākou ke noi a loaʻa ke kamaʻāina ʻIseraʻela, kahi kāleka ID, a me kahi passport. Ma lalo o 10 pakeneka e koho i kēia koho. Ua haʻaheo lākou a ua paʻakikī hoʻi: ʻo Suria ko lākou home. Ke kali nei lākou e 'hoʻi i ka home', ke kali nei no nā makahiki lōʻihi.
"He nui anei na ohana mokuahana?" Ninau au i ke kiai.
“ʻAe, nui. Aia nā hale ma nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua a ke holo nei ka palena ma waena.
Nīnau au iā ia inā he ʻohana kona ma kēlā ʻaoʻao o ka pā.
“Ae, ma Jaramana, ma ka hikina o Damaseko. Hui mākou a pau ma Ioredane, i kekahi manawa. ʻO Ioredane kahi e hui ai nā ʻohana mai Suria a noho i Golan Heights.
ʻO ka palena palena he hoʻokahi kilomita mai ke kikowaena. He mea weliweli, weliweli. Ke hoʻohālikelike ʻia me kēia, ua like nā palena kahiko o Cold War me he promenades. A ʻo ka palena ma waena o North a me South Korea he ʻano 'civil' hou aku.
ʻO kēia palena - ma waena o Suria a noho ʻia ʻo Suria - aia i kēia manawa ʻekolu mau papa kiʻekiʻe o nā pā uila, i hoʻolako ʻia, ma ke ʻano maʻamau, me ka uea ʻauʻau. Aia ma waena he ala haiki no nā kaʻa kaua ʻIseraʻela. A laila wale nō, ma hope o kēia mau mea a pau, aia nā hale kiaʻi UN.
ʻO ka mea hoʻohālikelike, ʻike ʻia ʻaʻohe pā kaua ma ka ʻaoʻao o Suria.
Ma mua o ka lilo ʻana o nā kelepona paʻa i ke kumukūʻai, hele mai nā kānaka i ʻaneʻi, i ka palena, mai nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua; ma mua lākou i ka laina me nā pū bipi e kamaʻilio liʻiliʻi me ko lākou ʻohana. Ua haʻi ʻia mai iaʻu e hele mai ana lākou, i kekahi manawa, e nānā i kekahi i kekahi, ma o ka uwea ʻauʻau. Hele mai lākou i ʻaneʻi e ʻike, e ʻike i nā helehelena o kā lākou mau mea aloha.
Nalu au ma ke kaʻa ukana; Hoʻopau wau, a nīnau i ke kalaiwa i ka wā i hana ʻia ai kēia mea ʻino.
"He mea hou," wahi āna. "Akā, ʻaʻohe mea kēia. E hoʻi mai i loko o kekahi mau mahina: Ke hoʻolālā nei ka poʻe ʻIseraʻela e kūkulu i ka pā maoli - kiʻekiʻe a paʻa. E piʻi koke ana ia. "
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Ke kamaʻilio nei mākou i kekahi poʻe ma Majdal al-Shams a me nā kauhale a me nā kūlanakauhale ʻē aʻe o ia wahi.
Hiki ke wehewehe ʻia ʻo Druze he poʻe ākea a aloha. Noho lākou i ko lākou ao holoʻokoʻa. Loaʻa iā lākou ko lākou hoʻomana ponoʻī a me ke akeakamai o ke ola. Manaʻoʻiʻo lākou i ka reincarnation a ʻaneʻane ʻaʻole lākou e mare ma waho o ko lākou ʻohana.
Ma nā kūlana o ka ʻāina, ʻo Golan Heights kahi ʻāina waiwai loa. He ʻano like ka ʻōnaehana olakino a me ka hoʻonaʻauao e like me ka ʻIseraʻela, a pēlā pū kekahi mau lawelawe kaiāulu.
Akā, he ʻāina noho ʻia kēia, kahi i kipaku ʻia ai ka hapa nui o nā kamaʻāina ma hope pono o ke kaua. I kēia manawa, ke kau nei nā hale noho Iudaio i ka pāpū.
Ua hoʻāʻo ʻo ʻIseraʻela e hoʻohana i ka ʻokoʻa o ka moʻomeheu Druze a me ka hoʻomana i kona pono ponoʻī: hōʻoiaʻiʻo i nā kamaʻāina ʻaʻole lākou he ʻāpana o Suria; he lahui kaawale lakou.
E like me ka wehewehe ʻana o Mr. Jammal: “Ua hoʻohana ʻo ʻIseraʻela i ka hoʻolālā mahele a me ka lula; Ua hoʻāʻo ʻo ia e hana i ka manaʻo o ka mokuʻāina ʻo Druze, me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka poʻe Druze i ko lākou manaʻo ponoʻī, kahi mamao loa mai ke kumu nui o Islam.
Akā ua kūʻē ʻo Druze, ʻo ka hapa nui o lākou. ʻO ka hoʻi ʻana i Suria ko lākou pahuhopu, ʻoiai ma hope o nā makahiki he nui o ka mea i kapa ʻia ʻo ka ʻoihana ʻoluʻolu.
Ua haʻi ʻia iā mākou he nui ka poʻe mai Golan Heights e manaʻo e aʻo ma Suria. Ke hele nei kekahi 200 i nā kulanui ma laila, e lilo i mau kauka, nā niho a me nā loio. Ke hoʻoikaika nei ka UN i ko lākou hele ʻana i ko lākou palena, ko lākou huakaʻi.
Ma mua o ka piʻi ʻana o ka hoʻouka kaua ma waena o ʻIseraʻela a me Suria, ua hoʻoikaika ʻo UN i ke kūʻai ʻana i nā ʻāpala a me nā cheri mai Golan Heights i Suria i noho ʻole ʻia. I kēia manawa ua paʻa nā mea, ma hope o ka 'huakaʻi' o nā moku kaua Israeli a me ka pana ʻana o Suria, ka hana i uhaki i ke kānāwai o ka honua a hoʻoulu i ka huhū ma nā wahi āpau.
"Ke noho nei ka poʻe ma ʻaneʻi me he mea lā he hoʻonohonoho pōkole wale nō. Me he mea lā ʻaʻohe palena, "i ʻōlelo ʻia e nā mea he nui ma Majdal al-Shams.
Ke kūkulu nei kekahi poʻe noho waiwai i kā lākou mau villa ma kahi kokoke i ka palena, e kū pono ana i ka pā. No ka mea, aia ma hope o ka pā kēlā mau mauna nani. A i kekahi lā, ʻo wai ka mea ʻike, aia paha, i kekahi manawa, kahi ʻike ʻole.
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Aia nā hoa hana ma Golan Heights, no ka'āina kekahi a 'hoʻokomo ʻia' kekahi. ʻOiaʻiʻo, nui nā hoa hana ma Golan Heights!
Ma kahi hale ʻaina liʻiliʻi, ʻo Falafel Abu, ma ke kikowaena o Majdal al-Shams, ʻelua mau kāne e kaʻana i kā lākou ʻaina ahiahi. Nīnau lākou; makemake e ʻike i nā mea a pau e pili ana iā mākou a ʻaʻole lākou e hoʻāʻo e hūnā i ko lākou ʻike, hāʻawi iā mākou i ko lākou mau inoa, nā leka uila a me nā helu kelepona.
Hoʻokahi kanaka ma ka ʻāina; he kanaka lōʻihi i noho i nā makahiki he nui ma ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa, ma Idaho, ma mua o ka hoʻi ʻana i Golan Heights. He Karistiano kekahi, no Beirut, Lebanona.
"Ua hele koʻu makuakāne mai Lebanona a hiki i Toronto, Kanada, i ka makahiki 1990, ma hope o ke kaua. Noho au ma laila no kekahi manawa, a ma hope o ka loaʻa ʻana o kaʻu palapala passport Kanada, kipa au i ka ʻIseraʻela a aloha wau i kēia ʻāina. A laila, hele au i Golan Heights a ua loaʻa iaʻu nā hoaaloha maikaʻi ma waena o nā poʻe Druze. Ua mare au i kahi kaikamahine Kalikiano maanei, ua loaa ia'u ka palapala ae noho, a ua noho au."
"ʻAʻole maʻalahi kēlā," hāwanawana ʻo Lynda.
I kekahi manawa, hoʻomaka nā kāne ʻelua e pana i ka laina ʻIseraʻela mana. Ua ʻike lākou he kanaka nūpepa noiʻi au. ʻIke ʻia kēia ʻoiaʻiʻo e hoʻopau iā lākou - makemake lākou e kamaʻilio a ʻaʻole lākou manaʻo e ʻōlelo ʻia.
“ʻO ka ʻIseraʻela ke kaiāulu āpau i kēia manawa. Loaʻa iā mākou ka noʻonoʻo ʻIseraʻela - he manaʻo hāmama mākou, hoʻonaʻauao; huakaʻi mākou…”
"E nānā i kēia kanaka", kuhikuhi lākou i ka mea nona ka hale ʻaina falafel, me kāna ʻumi ʻano ʻano Ottoman a me kāna mau maka liʻiliʻi a naʻauao, nānā iā mākou mai kahi mamao. “He loio kāna keiki. Ua aʻo kāna kaikamahine i ka hoʻonaʻauao kūikawā a ke hana nei ʻo ia me nā maʻi noʻonoʻo ma Sepania.
Ke ninau aku nei au ia lakou no Suria.
“Aia mākou me ke kipi! Makemake mākou e ʻike i ka ʻokoʻa o ka ʻāina. ʻAʻole mākou makemake e kāhea ka poʻe no ka jihad. Ua ʻae like nā kāne ʻelua. “ʻAʻole loa e hoʻihoʻi ʻo ʻIseraʻela i Golan Heights i Suria; inā ʻaʻole i hoʻoholo ʻia ka pilikia wai a komo ka UN. A i kēlā manawa, no nā kumu palekana, e mālama ka ʻIseraʻela i nā puʻu.
Loaʻa i ke kanaka lōʻihi ka passport Israeli. Ua noho mau ke kanaka Lebanona i ka ʻIseraʻela.
ʻEhia ka poʻe i kākoʻo iā Pelekikena Assad?
"Hapa a me ka hapalua," wahi a lākou. ʻIke wau ʻaʻole ʻoiaʻiʻo. ʻO ka hapa nui o ka poʻe a mākou i kamaʻilio e kākoʻo iā ia.
A laila hoʻomaka: ka pahu o nā clichés, ua paʻa lākou no kahi hola hoʻokahi. Hoʻomaka ke kanaka Lebanona i kāna ʻōlelo:
“Ua maopopo ka manaʻo ʻo Islam e lilo i ʻenemi o ke ao nei… E nānā i ka mea e hana nei ma ʻAigupita… Ke hopohopo nei au e hoʻi i Lebanona, i kēia manawa; makaʻu ke kipa aku. ʻO kēlā mau kiu Hezbollah a pau ma laila. Aloha au i ka ʻIseraʻela!”
Ua hui pū ʻo Tall, local/'Idaho Man' i kēia mele mele iā ʻIseraʻela: “Ua ʻike ka poʻe ma ʻaneʻi pehea e noho maluhia ai me ke kaiāulu Iudaio. ʻOiaʻiʻo, he 10% kūʻē kūʻē i ka noho ʻana. Aka, aneane pau loa ka poe opiopio i ka manao o ka Iseraela ko lakou home. I kēia manawa ʻo Golan Heights ka wahi mālie loa o ka ʻIseraʻela.
ʻO ka hopena, haʻalele nā kāne ʻelua. ʻAe, ʻo ka Golan Heights kahi wahi mālie loa o ka honua. No ka mea, ua kipaku ʻia kahi 80% o ka poʻe kamaʻāina mai ko lākou mau home. No ka mea, ua luku ʻia ko lākou mau kauhale, nā kauhale a me nā kūlanakauhale. No ka mea, ua kukuluia na pa ino. Ua poina nā kāne ʻelua i ka haʻi ʻana i ka haʻalulu weliweli mai ka piko o nā puʻu āpau āpau - nā radar, radios, nā mea hoʻolohe. A poina lākou i ka haʻi ʻana aku i nā kaʻa kaʻa a me nā kaʻa kaua, e neʻe ana i luna a i lalo i nā ala haiki.
ʻO Golan Heights - ka ʻāina o nā cheri a me nā ʻōlaʻi, nā wahi i hoʻopau ʻia o nā kauhale a me nā kūlanakauhale, ʻo nā kauoha a ʻIseraʻela e pāʻani ana i nā pāʻani kaua i loko o nā hale o Suria i luku ʻia.
Ke haʻalele nei nā kāne ʻelua, hele pololei mākou i ka mea nona ka hale ʻaina falafel.
"Ke hana nei ʻoe i ka falafel maikaʻi loa ma ka honua", ʻōlelo wau iā ia, ʻo ia ka mea hiki ʻole ke hōʻole ʻia. "E ʻoluʻolu, e haʻi mai iaʻu i kou manaʻo e pili ana i ka mea e hana nei ma Suria?"
"Ke huhū nui nei au i ke kūlana ma laila", pane mālie ʻo ia. "He nui ka poino, nui ka eha, hou. ʻAʻole pololei ka mea e hana nei ma laila. Ke hopohopo nei au i koʻu ʻohana ma kēlā ʻaoʻao o ka palena. He nui ka poʻe ma aneʻi e kapa i kēlā mau 'kipi' ma Suria - nā mea hoʻoweliweli. Ua ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ke kūlana ma mua o ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ke ʻano kipi? ʻO ka mea maopopo loa. "
ʻO ko mākou lā ʻelua kēia, ka pau ʻana o ka lā ʻelua.
Hui pū kekahi hui liʻiliʻi i loko o ka hale kūʻai ʻono. He nani ka meaʻai ma Majdal al-Shams. He mea kupaianaha wale nō ka ʻōlelo kūwaho o ka poʻe kamaʻāina.
A ʻo ka mea a mākou e lohe ai mai ka poʻe kamaʻāina, ʻokoʻa loa ia mai ka mea i hāʻawi ʻia mai iā mākou e ka hoʻolaha hoʻolaha Israeli.
"Makemake mākou e hoʻi i Suria. He poe hooweliweli ka poe kipi. Aia ʻo Assad ma ke ala o ke Komohana i Iran; makemake ke Komohana a me ka ʻIseraʻela e hoʻokuke iā ia a hoʻomaʻemaʻe i ko lākou ala i Tehran. Ua ʻike mākou a pau e uku ana ʻo Qatar i nā 'kipi'. Inā ʻaʻole hāʻawi ʻo Rūsia a me Kina i ke Komohana, ʻaʻole e hāʻule ʻo Assad.
Ma mua o ko mākou kaʻawale ʻana i ka lā ma mua, ua wehewehe ke kiaʻi ma ke alanui i Lebanona: "Ua pili mākou āpau me Suria ma aneʻi. Nānā mākou i ke kīwī Suria; ke hahai nei mākou i nā hanana. ʻO ka hapa nui o nā kamaʻāina ma ʻaneʻi e ʻike iā lākou iho me Assad. Makemake mākou iā Assad ma aneʻi. Akā ma ke Komohana a me ka ʻIseraʻela, inaina wale lākou i nā alakaʻi Arab naʻauao. Makemake lākou a kākoʻo i kēlā poʻe lapuwale ma Qatar, Bahrain a me Saudi Arabia!
ʻO ia ka manaʻo like aʻu i lohe ai mai ka poʻe o Hatay, ma ka palena ma waena o Turkey a me Suria, kahi aʻu i noiʻi ai i nā kahua hoʻomaʻamaʻa Western e hana ana i kapa ʻia ʻo 'Syrian Opposition': http://www.opendemocracy.net/andre-vltchek/when-is-syrian-opposition-syrian
Hoʻopiʻi ka poʻe e pili ana i ka mālama ʻana o ka ʻIseraʻela i ka waihona hale. Pono e loa'a ka palapala 'ae aupuni no ke kūkulu 'ana i hale hou, a 'o ia 'ae ke kumu kū'ai o ke kālā. Ma keia kulanakauhale wale no, ua nele kekahi 1.000 hale; ʻAʻole ʻae ka ʻIseraʻela e ulu i nā kūlanakauhale ʻo Druze - mālama ʻia ka ulu ʻana no nā noho Iudaio wale nō. Noho nā kānaka i loko o nā kūlana paʻa. ʻO nā hale i kūkulu ʻia me ka ʻole o ka ʻae aupuni e wāwahi ʻia.
A laila ua haʻi ʻia iā mākou e pili ana i ke ʻano o ka 'democracy' ma kēia ʻāina i noho ʻia: "ʻAʻohe kuleana koho balota i nā kamaʻāina Suria - ka hapa nui. Ua hoʻokau ʻo ʻIseraʻela i kāna mau ʻelele Druze i koho lima ʻia, e hana i ka mea i kapa ʻia ʻo nā 'aha kūkā kamaʻāina a i ʻole ke kūlanakauhale. Loaʻa lākou a pau i nā hoa hana a lawe lākou i nā passport Israeli a me nā kāleka ʻike. ʻAʻole ʻōlelo ʻia kēlā mau ʻaha kūkā e lawelawe i ka pono o ka lehulehu.
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I koʻu holo ʻana i ka palena me Lebanona, ʻike wau i kekahi o nā hiʻohiʻona nani loa o ka honua: Mauna Hermon a i ʻole. ʻO Jabal al-Shaykh ma ka ʻōlelo ʻAlapia – ʻo ka piko kiʻekiʻe loa o Suria a i kēia manawa ʻo ia ka 'āpana pale' ma waena o Suria a me ka ʻIseraʻela i noho ʻia ʻo Golan Heights. Aia ka piko o ka mauna ma ka palena ma waena o Suria a me Lebanona.
I koʻu kaʻa ʻana aku, hāʻule koʻu mau maka i ka hale paʻa nui ʻo Nimrod, i kūkulu ʻia ma kahi o 1229 e Al-Aziz Uthman, ke keiki kāne a Saladin a me ke keiki ʻōpio a Al-Adil I. Ua kapa ʻia ʻo ia. Qala'at al-Subeiba, "Castle of the Large Cliff" ma ka ʻōlelo ʻAlapia a ua manaʻo ʻia ʻo ia e hoʻomaka i ka hoʻouka kaua ʻana ma Damaseko e nā poʻe komo o ka ʻEono Crusade. Nani kēia kuʻikahi! ʻO kahi hale nui a ikaika i hoʻohana ʻia e pale aku i ka honua Muslim mai ka huhū a me ka weliweli e hele mai ana mai nā imperialist Western Western, i kēia manawa ua ʻike ʻole ʻia a ʻaʻole i hana ʻia, ʻo ka puliki ʻana i ka pali, ʻaʻole hiki ke hāʻawi i kekahi kūʻē.
Ke noʻonoʻo nei au iā Joul Jamal. Ua haʻi mai ʻo ia iaʻu, ma Haifa: “E koi ʻia ʻo ʻIseraʻela e hoʻi i Golan Heights, i kekahi lā. Akā, ʻaʻole ia e hana me ka makemake. Pono e koi ʻia nā kolonialis e haʻalele. ʻO Palesetina a me Golan Heights, he mea koʻikoʻi lākou: ʻoiai aia lākou ma ka laina mua o ke kaua kūʻē i ka imperialism.
Ke noʻonoʻo nei au e pili ana i ka mea kākau moʻolelo Israeli nui ʻo Amos Oz a me ka mea aʻu i heluhelu ai i kēia manawa:
ʻO kekahi o nā mea e paʻakikī loa ai kēia hakakā ʻo ia ka ʻoiaʻiʻo ʻo ka Israeli-Palestinian, ka hakakā ʻIseraʻela-Araba, he hakakā maoli nō ma waena o nā mea ʻelua. ʻElua mau mea i loaʻa i ka mea hoʻoluhi hoʻokahi. ʻO ʻEulopa, ka mea i hoʻopaʻa i ka honua Arab, hoʻohana iā ia, hoʻohaʻahaʻa iā ia, a hehi i kāna moʻomeheu, hoʻomalu iā ia a hoʻohana iā ia ma ke ʻano he kahua pāʻani imperialistic, ʻo ia hoʻi ʻo ʻEulopa i hoʻokae i ka poʻe Iudaio, hoʻomaʻau iā lākou, hoʻomāinoino iā lākou, a ʻo ka hopena, nui- pepehi ia lakou ma ka hewa pepehi kanaka. I kēia manawa, manaʻo paha ʻoe ua hoʻomohala koke nā mea ʻelua i waena o lākou iho i kahi manaʻo o ka lōkahi - e like me, no ka laʻana, i ka poetry a Berthold Brecht. Akā i ke ola maoli, ʻo kekahi o nā hakakā maikaʻi loa ʻo ia ka hakakā ma waena o nā mea ʻelua o ka mea hoʻoluhi hoʻokahi…
A laila hiki au i ka palena me Lebanona. ʻO kekahi pā weliweli ʻē aʻe e pili ana i ka uwea ʻauʻau, ka uila uila, nā hōʻailona e ʻōlelo ana e kūʻē i nā maina ʻāina. He lāʻau haki, he kia hoʻomanaʻo no ke koa make, i ke ola nalowale.
Haʻalele au i ke kaʻa a hele wāwae ma ka ʻaoʻao weliweli. Ke noʻonoʻo nei au i kēlā mau palena āpau aʻu i ʻike ai ma kēia ʻāpana o ka honua, i mau keneturi i hala aku nei, ua maluhia a hāmama. ʻO nā palena ma waena o Israel a me Lebanona, ma waena o Golan Heights a me Suria, ma waena o Tureke a me Suria, ma waena o Ioredane a me Saudi Arabia, Ioredane a me Palestinian West Bank, ka palena ma waena o ʻAigupita a me Gaza, a me nā palena ʻē aʻe he nui ʻole.
Ua huikau loa ia. ʻAʻohe mea maʻalahi. ʻO ka imperialism Komohana ke hoʻoulu nei i nā hakakā ma ka ʻāina holoʻokoʻa; paio ma luna o ka aila, paio ma luna o geopolitical pono. ʻO nā hoa pili pili loa o ke Komohana: Saudi Arabia, Israel, Qatar a me Turkey - ke hana nei lākou i kā lākou ʻāpana o ka hana luku, e hōʻemi a hoʻokaʻawale i kēia ʻāpana kahiko o ko mākou honua i kekahi mau ʻāpana pōʻino a liʻiliʻi o ka ʻāina i hoʻokaʻawale ʻia e nā kilomika pau ʻole o ka uea barbed.
Ua hoʻomaka wau e paʻi kiʻi i ka palena palena. Ua hana au me ka intuitive. Ua luhi a kaumaha loa au.
A laila kū ke kaʻa kaua ʻIseraʻela ma kahi kokoke iaʻu.
"Maikaʻi paha ʻoe?" hou.
I kēia manawa ua lawa au. Wali aku la au i ko'u lima ma ka pa pau ole, ma na mine, a hooho au i ke kaa kiai: “Aole, aole. ʻo ʻoe paha?"
E like me kahi kokoke iā Al-Qunaitra, he keiki kao wale nō ke koa, he conscript, me nā aniani.
Ua ʻakaʻaka ʻo ia. Ua hoʻoneʻe ʻo ia i kona mau lehelehe; me he mea lā 'Ua ʻike wau, ʻike wau, he aha kā mākou e hana ai?'
A laila minoʻaka ʻo ia iaʻu, ma mua o ka hehi ʻana i ka mea hoʻokē.
"Ua maopopo iā ʻoe e maikaʻi ana ʻoe?"
"Maikaʻi wau," i pane aku ai au. A ua hoʻohui au ma lalo o koʻu hanu: 'E maikaʻi ʻoe a me wau. Akā ʻaʻole maopopo iaʻu i nā mea ʻē aʻe.'
Andre Vltchek he mea kākau moʻolelo, mea hana kiʻiʻoniʻoni a me ka mea kākau moʻolelo noiʻi. Ua uhi ʻo ia i nā kaua a me nā hakakā ma nā ʻāina he nui. ʻO kāna puke e pili ana i ka imperialism Komohana ma ka Pākīpika Hema - Oceania - ua paʻi ʻia e Expathos. ʻO kāna puke hoʻonāukiuki e pili ana i ka post-Suharto Indonesia a me ka market-fundamentalist model i kapa ʻia "Indonesia – Ka Pae Aina o ka Maka’u” (Pluto). Ma hope o ka noho ʻana no nā makahiki he nui ma Latin America a me Oceania, noho ʻo Vltchek i kēia manawa a hana ma Asia Hikina a me ʻApelika. Hiki ke loaʻa iā ia ma o kāna paena.
Hāʻawi kālā ʻia ʻo ZNetwork ma o ka lokomaikaʻi o kāna poʻe heluhelu.
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