Locally-grown food from small farms, an alternative to food from āfactory farms,ā has become, thankfully, popular across the U.S, including the area covered by the Atlantic Chapter of the Sierra Club. On Long Island, where I live, Suffolk County remains the top agricultural county in terms of value of annual produce in New York.
But thereās an issue, charges a Long Island professor, not being addressed: the situation of farmworkers at these farms.
āFood movement advocates and consumers, driven to forge alternatives to industrial agribusiness, have neglected the labor economy that underpins ālocalā food production,ā writes Margaret Gray in her just-published book, Labor and the Locavore (University of California Press).
Thus, the call āto ābuy localā promotes public health at the expense of protecting the well-being of the farmworkers who grow and harvest the much-coveted produce on regional farms.ā
When it comes to factory farms, the public hasnāt ābeen reluctant to recognize the exploitationā of workers. But now being āoverlookedā is āthe role of hired labor in smallerscale agrifood production.ā
āSmall farms,ā she writes in her book, ālike their factory farm counterparts, are largely staffed by noncitizens, immigrant workers.ā But āthe prevailing mentality within the alternative food movement has not absorbed this reality.ā
āFood advocates and their organizations display a tendency,ā she goes on, āto conflate local, alternative, sustainable, and fair as a compendium of virtues against the factory farm that they so vigorously demonize. Yet this equation discourages close scrutiny of the labor dynamics by which small farms maintain their operations.ā
Dr. Gray is a professor of political science at Adelphi University in Garden City on Long Island.
The situation for farmworkers has long been a scandal in the U.S. The great journalist, Edward R. Murrow, did one of his most important TV documentaries, āHarvest of Shame,ā about the plight of migrant farmworkers. Pointedly broadcast on Thanksgiving Day, 1961, it exposed the conditions for, as Murrow said, theĀ āhumans who harvest the food for the best-fed people in the world.ā Paid outrageously small sums, exploited by crew leaders who recruited them, housed in awful dwellings, they constituted āworkers in the sweat shops of the soil.ā And critically, he stressed, laws that protected other workers specifically excluded farmworkers.
Migrant camps in New Jersey, in Suffolk County and in upstate New York were among those that featured prominently in āHarvest of Shame.ā Back then, most of the farmworkers in the New York portion of the Atlantic Coast āmigrant streamā were black. āFrom World War II through the early 1970s, the vast majority…were African Americans from the South,ā writes Dr. Gray.
āThis was a labor market profile…uniformly evident, whether on Long Island potato fields, Hudson Valley fruit and vegetable farms, Wayne Countyās apple orchards, Western New Yorkās bean fields, North Country dairies, or the Finger Lakes vineyards.ā Then, in the 1980s, āLatinos came to dominate the regional agricultural labor market.ā
Dr. Grayās book focuses especially on the Hudson Valley of New York.
āThe Hudson Valley, the fabled agricultural region that lies to the north of New York City, is a particularly opposite setting for examining the absence of worker justice within the alternative food movement, as well as the many obstacles that lie in the path of workersā inclusion in the new food ethic,ā she writes. This areaās ācultural identity trades on the the currency of agrarian values and epitomizes precisely those farming sectors that have benefited most from the economic stimulus promised by the alternative and local food movements…The Hudson Valley is thick with food policy centers and is increasingly cited as a model local food system with sustainable relations to populations and resources.ā
Farmworkers remain without āthe right to organizeā unionsāāa very significant exclusion,ā said Emma Kreyche, organizing and advocacy coordinator for the Worker Justice Center of New York based in Kingston, at a recent symposium at SUNY/College at Old Westbury. It was titled āHealthy Food, Unsustainable Jobs? Farmworkers Fight for Their Rights.ā
As examples of the ābasicā laws that cover other American workers, she noted that in New York farmworkers āare not entitled to a day of rest, they have no right to have a day offā and do not get overtime pay. Moreover, many of the laws on the books that do cover farmworkers are āpoorly enforced.ā
Ms. Kreyche distributed a fact sheet put together by the Worker Justice Center of New York (www.wjcny.org) providing details on a āFarmworkers Fair Labor Practices Actā that has been considered by the New York State Legislatureābut not passed.
It would establish an eight-hour workday for farmworkers, allow them overtime pay after eight hours of work, provide one day of rest each week, require they be paid the minimum wage and āprohibit child farmworkers from being paid a wage lower than the minimum wage,ā have āthe right to organize and bargain collectively for the purpose of representing and protecting their interests,ā ensure their housing āmeets basic standards under the Sanitary Code,ā be eligible for unemployment compensation āwhen laid off from work or terminatedā and receive disability benefits.
Dr. Gray, who also spoke at the symposium, commented about the notion āthat local farms are wholesome and industrial factory farms are evil.ā The situation, the said, is that generally in all kinds of agriculture, farmworkers are āmarginalized, excluded from labor laws and work in paternalistic settingsā and thus are āafraid to complain.ā
As her book concludes: āBuy local!ā Yes, āsupport local farms,ā she writes, but at the same time ābuild a food movement that incorporates workers.ā People, she says, should nicely explain to farmers āyour food ethic and how it demands fair labor standards to be observed.ā
Journalist Karl Grossman is a member of the Long Island Group and professor of journalism at the State University of New York/College at Old Westbury. For nearly 25 years, he has hosted a nationally-aired TV program, Enviro Close-Up.
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