Chitsime: TomDispatch.com
Wolemba Lukas Bischoff Chithunzi
Alaska Denali National Park / Shutterstock.com
Posachedwapa, ndinali ku Homer, Alaska, kukambitsirana za bukhu langa Kutha kwa Ice. Masekondi angapo nditathokoza omwe adandibweretsa kusukulu yaying'ono ya University of Alaska komweko, nditadzazidwa ndi kusakanizika kwachisoni, chikondi, ndi chisoni chifukwa cha kulera kwanga - komanso dziko lapansi nthawi zambiri - ndinalira.
Ndinayesa kulankhula koma ndinangopepesa ndipo ndinatenga kamphindi pang'ono kuti ndidzitengere ndekha. Zimakhala zovuta kwa ine, ngakhale panopo, kuti ndifotokoze kusambitsidwa kwa malingaliro ndi malingaliro omwe adandigwera mwadzidzidzi nditaimirira pabwalo usiku wofunda, wamphepo, wamvula kum'mwera kwa Kenai Peninsula pakati pa gulu lokonzekera kuphunzira zambiri za zomwe zinali. zikuchitika ku Dziko lathu lokondedwa.
โPepani,โ ndinatero pomalizira pake nditapumanso pangโono, pamene mawu anga anali osweka mtima, โkoma ndikudziwa kuti mumvetsetsa. Mukukhala m'dera lino ndipo mukudziwa momwe ndimachitira kuti Alaska ikalowa m'magazi mwanu, imakhala pamenepo. Ndipo ndimakonda malo ano ndi mtima wanga wonse.โ Ambiri mwa anthu amene ankamvetsera mโchipindacho anali atayamba kale kugwedeza mutu ndipo munthu mmodzi anayamba kulira.
Ndinakhala ku Alaska kwa zaka khumi, kuyambira mu 1996, ndipo wakhala mโmagazi mwanga kuyambira chaka chapitacho pamene ndinayangโana koyamba pa Denali National Park ndi Alaska Range yochititsa chidwi. Ndipotu, mitu isanu mwa mitu isanu ndi inayi ya bukhu langa latsopano yaikidwa ku Alaska ndipo mutu wake wachisoni uli ngati kugwada kwa chikondi changa chosatha kaamba ka chigawo chakumpoto kwa dziko lino. Nthawi imeneyo mu 1995 pamene mitambo inagawanika kuti iwonetsere msonkhano wapamwamba wa Denali ndi kufalikira kwake kochititsa chidwi kwa madzi oundana kunakhala chikondi poyamba. Mโchenicheni, mโchilimwe chochuluka pambuyo pake ndinali kukachezera malowo limodzinso ndi madera ena a ku Alaska, mapiri amapiri a ku Mexico, Karakorum Himalaya a ku South Asia, kapena ku South America Andes.
Kenako, m'chilimwe cha 2003, miyezi ingapo pambuyo pa kuwukira kwa boma la Bush ku Iraq, ndidamvera malipoti a wailesi ya chiyambi cha kulanda koyipa kwa dziko la America kuchokera ku hema ku Denali ndikudzipereka ndi Park Service. Kunali komweko, modabwitsa, pomwe ndidayamba kumva kukokedwa kwa Iraq - kapena m'malo mosokonekera pamawayilesi wamba zikafika pazomwe ntchitoyo ikuchitira anthu aku Iraq. Kenako ndinaganiza zoyenda kuchokera ku ayezi kupita ku kutentha, kuchokera ku Denali kupita ku Middle East, kuti ndidziwe zomwe zikuchitika kumeneko ndikufotokozera.
Kuitana kodabwitsa kwa mapiri kuja kunanditsogolera ku ntchito ya utolankhani yomwe idandichotsa kutali ndi Alaska wanga wokondedwa yemwe kukula kwake, kopanda kukhalapo kwa munthu, sindinakumanepo ndi kwina kulikonse. Ndipo pamene ndimayenda kuchokera kumadera ake apadera, kumverera kuti nyengo inali itasokonezedwa kale m'njira zochititsa chidwi kunakhalabe ndi ine m'zaka zanga za nkhondo. Lingaliro la madzi oundana omwe akusefukira m'dera langa lakale limandipweteka ndipo mwanjira ina idandikokera kunkhondo zamuyaya zaku America kupita kunkhondo yamtundu wina - padziko lapansi pano - komanso pafupifupi zaka khumi zonena zanyengo.
Ndinauza omvera zonsezi, ndikuima kaye kuti asalirenso chifukwa chachisoni chobadwa mwa zina chifukwa cha kugwedezeka kwa moto wolusa, chilala, kusungunuka msanga kwa permafrost, midzi ya m'mphepete mwa nyanja kusungunuka m'nyanja, ndi madzi oundana omwe akucheperachepera. Ndipo musaiwale a Trumpian lapdog wa kazembe yemwe, monga purezidenti wake wokondedwa, akuwoneka kuti sangathe kuchepetsa ntchito mwachangu kapena kugwira ntchito molimbika kuti atsegule zambiri zaboma, kudula mitengo, ndi kuipitsa (ngakhale kusakondedwa ndikukula).
Madzulo, Novembara 20, ndidalankhula ku Yunivesite ya Alaska ku Anchorage ndipo kunali madigiri 48 Fahrenheit (ndi mvula, osati chipale chofewa), kodzaza. 20 madigiri kutentha kuposa kutentha kwanthawi zonse kwa mwezi umenewo. Ndipo izi ndizowona zomwe zakhala ngati zachilendo kumeneko, ngakhale gawo limodzi mwa magawo atatu a boma lili mkati mwa Arctic Circle. Izi, zikuwonetsanso zenizeni zatsopano: "Arctic amplification," yomwe kudzera kuti madera okwera a pulaneti lino akutenthera pafupifupi kuwirikiza kawiri kuposa m'ma latitudes apakati. M'mawu ena, Alaska ili m'malo osiyanasiyana chifukwa cha kusokonekera kwanyengo.
Mwanjira ina, omvera omwe ndimalankhula nawo mwezi womwewo ndi anzanga onse ku Alaska tsopano akukhala mumkhalidwe womwe umakhala wodabwitsa kwambiri pamene zinthu zikusefukira m'boma lawo mwachangu.
Alaska, New Norm
Si chinsinsi kuti akatswiri ambiri a zanyengo ali pano chisoni za tsogolo la dziko lapansi ndi anthu, ndipo ena mpaka akufotokoza zizindikiro zawo monga kusintha kwa nyengo kwa Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder, kapena PTSD. Asayansi angapo omwe ndidawafunsa m'buku langa adanenanso zambiri. Dan Fagre, yemwe amagwira ntchito ku United States Geological Survey ku Glacier National Park, anali momwemo. Nditamufunsa momwe amamvera poyang'ana madzi oundana (omwe pakiyo idatchedwa) kutha - akuyembekezeredwa. kukhala atapita pofika chaka cha 2030 - adayankha, "Zili ngati kukhala msilikali wolimba mtima, koma pamalingaliro anzeru, ndizovuta kuwona zomwe mumaphunzira zikutha."
Ndipo si akatswiri a zanyengo okha ngati iyeyo. Ena amene amakhala pafupi ndi madera amene kusinthaku kukuchitika mochititsa chidwi kwambiri akuwoneka kuti akukumananso ndi zizindikiro ngati zimenezi. โSimungakhulupirire mmene zinalili ku Anchorage chilimwe chatha,โ bwenzi langa Matt Rafferty anandiuza ine pamene tinakumana mu mzinda umenewo mโmaลตa wobwera kuchokera ku Homer. "Tidawona madigiri 90 pa Julayi 4th ndiyeno, pambuyo pake m'chilimwe, utsi wamoto wolusa udali wokhuthala masiku ena osatha kuwona mseu wapakati patawuni."
Katswiri wa zachilengedwe yemwe wakhala akugwira ntchito kwa nthawi yaitali kuti ateteze Alaska ku mimbulu yochotsa, Matt ali, monga ine, pokonda kukongola kwachilengedwe kwa malo. Ndayenda naye kudera lakutali la Alaskan ndipo ndimamuganizira ngati wosangalala komanso wosatopa akamagwira ntchito yake, ngakhale atakhala kuti sangapambane. Koma pomumvetsera akufotokoza za chipwirikiti cha nyengo chomwe chinasokoneza dziko lakwawo posachedwapa, sindinasiye kuganizira zoyankhulana ndi achibale ku Iraq omwe adataya okondedwa awo ku nkhondo ya US. Anthu omwe ali ndi PTSD - ndipo ndikudziwa izi kuchokera pazomwe ndakumana nazo - amakonda kunena mobwerezabwereza nkhani zowawa zomwe adakumana nazo. Ndi njira yathu yoyesera kuyikonza.
Ndipo izi zinali ndendende zomwe Matt, yemwe nthawi zambiri sanali munthu wolimbikira kwambiri, anali kuchita m'mawa uja, zomwe zidandidabwitsa. โTinali ndi mitsinje kumโmwera chapakati cha Alaska imene inali yotentha kwambiri nsomba za salimoni zinali kufa matenda a mtima,โ anapitiriza motero, movutikira kuti apume. โMadzi a mumtsinjewo anafika madigiri 80 mwa ena mwa iwo! Madziwo anali madigiri 80! Kodi mungakhulupirire zimenezo? Munali kwenikweni zikwi makumi a salimoni zakufa zoyandama mโmitsinje yambiri. Ndinayenda ulendo wapaketi kumapiri a Talkeetna osavala kalikonse koma t-shirt ndi kabudula! Zimenezo nโzosamveka! Mukudziwa kuzizira kwamadzi m'mitsinje kuno. Zinafikadi kutentha kwambiri Dzuwa tinanyamuka nโkukakhala pansi pamtengo pamthunzi!โ
Iye anafotokoza zambiri zimene ndinkadziwa kale, kuphatikizapo zoti madzi oundana a mโnyanja ya Arctic anasungunuka mofulumira kwambiri ndiponso kuti pofika mโnyengo ya mvula, madzi oundana anali kusungunuka pamlingo umene sunanene kuti udzachitikanso. zaka 70. Mphepete mwa nyanja ya Arctic Ocean kumpoto kwa Alaska, matauni osodza anamgumi omwe kale ankagwiritsa ntchito malo osungiramo zinthu zakale a permafrost kusunga, kukalamba, ndi kusunga chakudya chawo chozizira chaka chonse - Inupiat amawagwiritsa ntchito popanga matani a whale ndi walrus nyama - tsopano amawapeza akucheza nawo. madzi ndi kumera nkhungu chifukwa cha kusungunuka kwa permafrost.
Pofika mwezi wa September, Matt anandiuza kuti akulimbana ndi kuvutika maganizo. "Ndinataya chiyembekezo, popeza ndidakhala ngati waposachedwa pano," adapitilizabe pang'onopang'ono komanso mwakachetechete tsopano, akusisita mkono wake umodzi momwe ndimaganizira ngati kudzitonthoza. Kuthera nthawi yochuluka kusinkhasinkha, kuchita maseลตera a yoga, ndi kupeza Podcasts zothandiza zauzimu, iye anawonjezera, kukhala kuvomerezedwa kwa iye - ndipo iye kutali yekha kuti pakati Alaskans monga kum'mwera nyengo zikuoneka kusamuka kumpoto.
Tsiku limenelo ku Anchorage, ndinayima pa malo osungira mabuku omwe ndimakonda kwambiri kuti ndione mavoliyumu atsopano a boma. Mmodzi wa iwo, Wekha Pamwamba: Kukwera Denali mu Akufa a Zima, anandigwira diso. Wofufuza wa ku Arctic Lonnie Dupre adapanga mbiri mu 2015 pokumana ndi Denali mu Januwareโฆ yekha. Zinali zodabwitsa kwambiri zimene analemba mโbuku lake, koma nthawi imene sindidzaiwala inali pamene anafotokoza kuti anatsekeredwa mโhema wake paphiri la mamita 11,200 pa chimphepo chamkuntho chimene chinabuka kwa masiku ambiri. Panthawi ina, anamva zomwe zinkamveka ngati miyala yaing'ono yomwe ikugwetsa hema, kumasula zipi, kutulutsa mutu wake, ndipo adadabwa kupeza kuti, pa December 31, kunali tulo, osati chipale chofewa. Tikukamba za mphindi yomwe kutentha kwapakati pa malo okwera kumayenera kukhala madigiri 35 pansi pa ziro.
Zinandipweteka mtima kudziลตa kuti nyengo zoterezi zinkavutitsa ngakhale Denali, phiri, lomwe linali lalitali kwambiri komanso pafupi ndi Arctic Circle, lomwe linasintha moyo wanga pondikokera ku Alaska pamene ndinali ndi zaka zapakati pa makumi awiri. Ngakhale kuti ndikudziwa zonse, zinkandidabwitsabe.
Ndipo ine ndiri pano, monga anzanga apamtima mโchigawo chimenecho, ndikuwuza aliyense amene angamvetsere nkhaniyi. Ndikudziwa kuti izi zidzamveka pamwamba kwa owerenga omwe si a Alaska, koma ngakhale kulemba izi kumabweretsa misozi m'maso mwanga. Sizikuyenera kukhala motere. Palibe chomwe chikuchitika kumeneko, kunena za nyengo, lero ndi zomwe timaganiza ngati "zachilengedwe," ngakhale kuti tsopano ndi chikhalidwe chatsopano.
Kumva zambiri za nkhanizi pochezera kunakhala kochuluka kwambiri, monga kudziwa zomwe zikuyamba kuchitika ku nsomba za nsomba, zimbalangondo, mphalapala, ndi nyama zakuthengo zamitundu yonse. Chifukwa cha chipwirikiti chanyengo, zolengedwa zotere zayamba kusamuka kuchoka kumadera omwe kale anali kwawo chifukwa chosowa chakudya chodziwika bwino. Ndipo zonsezi, mwa njira yake, zimapweteketsa mtima.
Pa nthawi posachedwapa phunziro ku yunivesite ya Alaska, Anchorage, Rick Thoman, katswiri wa zanyengo ku Alaska Center for Climate Assessment and Policy, anapereka chithunzithunzi chomvetsa chisoni cha mmene zinthu zinasinthira kudera lathu la kumpoto kwenikweni. M'zaka zake 30 ndi National Weather Service ku Alaska, Thoman adawona momwe nyengo yakumudzi kwawo ikusokonezedwa ndi vuto la nyengo. Wochokera ku Pennsylvania, adauza omvera momwe amawerengera za dziko losiyana ndi ntchito zomwe zidachokera ku nkhani yachidule ya Jack London yazaka za zana la makumi awiri "Kumanga Moto" mpaka buku la Barry Lopez. Maloto a Arctic adamutsogolera ku Alaska. Mwachitsanzo, London inali italemba za malo omwe kutentha kwa madigiri 70 kunali gawo la moyo watsiku ndi tsiku. โKoma zoona zake nโzakuti,โ iye anatiuza momvetsa chisoni, โmalo ofotokozedwa mโmabuku ameneลตa kulibenso.โ Anawonjezera kuti, โZimenezi ndizovuta kwambiri. Koma ndi zomwe tili nazo, ndi zomwe tikukhalamo. "
Thoman adalankhula za momwe, chifukwa cha madzi otentha kwambiri, Nyanja ya Bering ikukumana ndi kusamuka kwakukulu kwa zamoyo zam'madzi, pomwe dzikolo liri, ngati bwenzi lokondedwa, mkati mwamavuto azaumoyo omwe palibe amene ali ndi mphamvu akuyesa. kuchiza.
Nzosadabwitsa kuti zonsezi zimandisiya ndikumverera kukhala wopanda mphamvu. Kugwedezeka kulikonse kwanyengo kwatsopano kumamveka ngati kuwomba kwina kwa thupi. Kapena umboni winanso wa momwe ndikutaya wokondedwa. Alaska, mwa kuyankhula kwina, akuvutika ndi imfa ya nyengo ndi mabala chikwi, pamene ndimavutika tsiku ndi tsiku kuvomereza zenizeni zatsopano: kuti dziko lasinthidwa kale.
Peak ya Rainbow
Mafunde aakulu achikondi ndi achisoni anali atayamba kale kundidutsa pamene ndege yanga inkatsika ku Anchorage pamene ulendowu unayamba. Ndipo maganizo oterowo anapitirizabe panthaลตi imene ndinakhala kumeneko. Nthawi yokhala ndi mabwenzi akale okwera phiri idakhala yowawa, popeza sipanapite nthawi yaitali kuti tilankhule za kusintha komwe kunachitika kale, monga momwe timakonzekera tsogolo la mapiri a Alaska.
Tsiku lomaliza lathunthu, ndinadziลตa kuti ndinafunikira kukhala ndekha mโmapiri amenewo. Ndidabweretsa zida zofunikira pakutentha kozizira kwa Novembala, kapena chifukwa cha momwe ndimakumbukira zaka zomwe ndidakhala kumeneko: ma crampons, nkhwangwa ya ayezi, zovala zowonjezera zotentha za chipale chofewa komanso kutentha kwamapiri. zomwe zikanayenera kuchitika muunyamata (ngakhale popanda kuganizira za kuzizira kwa mphepo).
Dzuwa lisanatuluke tsiku limenelo, ndinalunjika kumโmwera kuchokera ku Anchorage pa msewu waukulu wa Seward pamene unatsikira pansi mโmphepete mwa madzi a Turnagain Arm. Ndinali kupita kunjira yomwe ikananditengera ku mapiri a Chugach, amodzi mwa malo omwe ndidapondapo.
Mabuluu owoneka bwino owoneka bwino komanso achikasu ofewa a buttery adaunikira mlengalenga pamene dzuwa laulesi limatuluka. Ngakhale kuti chipale chofewa chikadaphimba nsonga za mapiri ozungulira, kutsika pansi mitundu pa iwo inazimiririka kuchokera ku zoyera zowala mpaka zofiirira ndi zobiriwira - sizosadabwitsa, popeza kutentha kuno kwakhala kotentha kwambiri ndi chipale chofewa chosowa kwambiri m'nyengo yozizira ya chaka chino. .
Ndinadutsa madera angapo kumene, chapakati pa zaka za mโma 1990, ndikanakhala kuti ndakwera kale madzi oundana pamwamba pa mathithi oundana panthaลตiyi ya chaka. Tsopano, anali owuma m'mafupa ndi kutentha kwambiri kuti ayezi apange.
Nditafika pamalo amene ndinadutsamo, ndinayenda ndekha kupita kunsonga yapafupi. Chifukwa cha chizoloลตezicho, ndinayamba kuvala jekete yolemera, koma posakhalitsa ndinaivula, pamodzi ndi magolovesi anga, mโnyengo yotentha kwambiri kuposa kuzizira. Izi ndinali ndisanazizolowere ndipo zinali zachilendo kusintha makhalidwe anga akale pamene ndinkakwera.
Ndinakwezeka msanga. M'maola angapo, ndinali mu chinachake chomwe chinawoneka ngati Alaskan kwa ine, nyengo yeniyeni yachisanu pamene ndinkadutsa mu chisanu - zomwe zikutanthauza kuti miyendo yanu nthawi zonse imathyola chipale chofewa mpaka mawondo kapena pakati pa ntchafu. -Ndikupita kumtunda. Ndinkapuma nthawi ndi nthawi kuti ndipume fungo la mitengo ndikuyang'ana chipale chofewa nthawi zina chikuyenda m'chigwachi.
Mphepete mwa nsongayo munakutidwa ndi chipale chofewa. Pamene ndinafika kumeneko, ndinazindikira mwadzidzidzi kuti ndinali kuthamangitsa nyengo yozizira - ndiko kuti, moyo wanga wakale ndi maloto - pamwamba pa mapiri awa tsiku lomaliza la ulendo wanga, kufunafuna kupeza Alaska yomwe inalibenso.
Ndidachita chidwi ndi mawonekedwe owoneka bwino a 360-degree, ndikujambula zithunzi za nsonga zachisanu zondizungulira, ndikumamwa zonse, ndisanatsike ndikubwerera kunyumba kwanga ku Washington State ndikubwerera ku mphatso yosintha nyengo pa pulaneti loyaka moto. komwe ndikadapitiliza kulota za Alaska zomwe ndidadziwa kale. Ndidadziwa kuti ndikukonzekera zokwera zamtsogolo kuno, pomwe zina zimakhalabe momwe zinalili kale.
Nditangotsala pang'ono kukwera ndege yanga yochokera ku eyapoti ya Anchorage, mtambo wakumpoto unatha, ndikuwulula kawonekedwe ka Denali koyera kwambiri kuseri kwa buluu wakuda. Ndinayima pamenepo, wotopa, kwa pafupifupi theka la ola osakhoza kuyang'ana paphirilo. Pokhapokha pamene mdima unayamba mdima ndipo Denali sanalinso kuonekera ndikanatha kudzilola ndekha kuchoka, ngakhale pamene ndinapukuta misozi yambiri.
Dahr Jamail, a TomDispatch zonse, ndi wolandira ulemu wambiri, kuphatikizapo Mphotho ya Martha Gellhorn for Journalism chifukwa cha ntchito yake ku Iraq ndi Mphotho ya 2018 Izzy ya Kuchita Bwino Kwambiri mu Independent Media. Buku lake latsopano, Mapeto a Ayisi: Kuchitira Umboni ndi Kupeza Tanthauzo Pakusokoneza Kwanyengo, linasindikizidwa chaka chino. Iyenso ndi mlembi wa Pambuyo pa Malo Obiriwira ndi Kufuna Kukana.
Nkhaniyi idawonekera koyamba pa TomDispatch.com, tsamba lawebusayiti la Nation Institute, lomwe limapereka kusuntha kwazinthu zina, nkhani, ndi malingaliro kuchokera kwa Tom Engelhardt, mkonzi wanthawi yayitali pakusindikiza, woyambitsa nawo American Empire Project, wolemba Mapeto a Chikhalidwe Chopambana, monga buku, The Last Days of Publishing. Buku lake laposachedwa ndi A Nation Unmade By War (Mabuku a Haymarket).
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