Udleni namuhla? Mhlawumbe kwakuyisemishi leqanda noshizi, lilandelwa i-pizza, bese kuba i-ramen yesidlo sakusihlwa. Noma mhlawumbe ube ne-burrito yasekuseni, wabamba i-sushi ozoya kuyo ukuze uthole isidlo sasemini, futhi wagcoba ibhega nama-fries ukuze uqedele usuku.
Ngibiza lezi zitsha ngokuthi โukudla kwenkundla.โ Yize beyingxenye yefa lezokupheka, bakha iningi lokudla kwethu. AbaseMelika bayadla Ama-sandwich ayi-200, Ama-burger angama-150, Futhi izingcezu ze-pizza ezingamashumi amane nesithupha unyaka ngokwesilinganisoโukuthola ingxenye yesithathu yokudla kulokhu kudla okuthathu. Engeza ku-sushi epakishiwe kanye ne-ramen esheshayo, ama-tacos, ama-burritos, nama-nachos, ama-fried nama-chips, kanye ne-pasta kanye noshizi we-mac 'n', futhi kusobala ukuthi ishumi nambili noma ngaphezulu lokudla kwepulatifomu kubala iningi lokudla kwethu.
Ngiboleka umqondo we "platform" kuPentagon. Izikhali ezingenakubalwa kuyo isabelomali sezigidigidi zamadola ziwela ezigabeni ezintathu kuphela: imikhumbi, izindiza, nezimoto. Amasosha ayababiza Amapulatifomu ngoba angagetshengwa abe amagobolondo futhi athuthukiswe ngezikhali zakamuva, izinto zikagesi, izikhali, nezinhlelo zikagesi. Ngokufanayo, ukudla okuningi kwamapulatifomu kunekhwalithi eyisisekelo esekelwe ezinhlamvini ezintathu ezondla impucuko yokuqala: ukolweni, ummbila, nelayisi. Njengoba kubaluleke kakhulu kunangaphambili, bayahlinzeka Amaphesenti angama-50 awo wonke ama-caloric esintu.
Ukudla kwepulatifomu kungashintsha kalula izingxenye ukudala inkohliso yezinhlobonhlobo. Fatburger, ngokwesibonelo, inezinkulungwane zezinhlobonhlobo ezisekelwe kuzo zonke izinhlanganisela ezingaba khona zama-garnishes, amasoso, ushizi, amaprotheni, namabhanisi.
Inkohliso yezinhlobonhlobo idlulela nakukudla kweplathifomu. Cabanga nge-pepperoni pizza, i-carne asada burritos, i-cheesesteaks, i-pasta bolognese, nama-cheeseburgers. Zimane ziyizinhlobonhlobo zikakolweni, inyama yenkomo, noshizi. Ngaphandle kwe-cheesesteak, bonke banotamatisi. (Ngenkathi ama-barbarians azofaka i-ketchup noma i-marinara ku-cheesesteak, abahlanza bayazi ukuthi upelepele othosiwe no-anyanisi banele ubumnandi obunjengotamatisi.)
Kubathengi bezindawo zokudlela, ukudla kweplathifomu kuyizindleko eziphansi, umthamo omkhulu, kanye nenzuzo ephezulu. Kubathengi, ashibhile, ayagcwalisa, futhi amnandi. Okujwayelekile futhi okwenziwe ngempahla yasemapulazini evamile, ukudla kweplathifomu kulula ukuzivumelanisa nezimo. Kuthiwa ipizza yaduma eNew York ngesikhathi soKuwohloka Okukhulu Kwezomnotho ngoba kubiza ikhasimende ingxenye yesine kuphela, kuyilapho โumnikazi waqoqa inzuzo engamaphesenti angama-90. "
Ukudla kweplathifomu okuthuthukisiwe kanye nezokuthutha ezisebenza ngesitimu kanye nezimboni ukuze kondle abasebenzi abakhula ngokushesha nabahambayo. Isibonelo, e-Yokohama, isango lase-Japan eliya emhlabeni, ama-ramen ahambayo (yatha) eduze kwetheku kuphakela amatilosi, izisebenzi zasefekthri, nomuntu osebenza ngasogwini, owayedla izitsha zama-noodle enziwe efektri ngemizuzu emi. Ekupheleni kwekhulu leshumi nesishiyagalolunye eNew England, izinqola zokudla kwasemini ukudla ophaya namasemishi kwakuyinto engaphandle kwamafekthri imini nobusuku.
Cishe konke ukudla kwasepulatifomu kubhubhukile ngesikhathi Second Industrial Revolution. The i-hamburger yavela ngawo-1890 e-United States (yize ukuthi ubani owayisebenzela kuqala kuyinkulumo-mpikiswano). I-pizzeria yokuqala eyaziwayo yaseMelika yayisivele ivuliwe ngo-1894 kuMulberry Street. U-Banh Mi wadabuka eVietnam phakathi neMpi Yezwe Yokuqala. Ngo-1910, abanye 25,000 chips Ukuphakela izinhlanzi namashibhisi kwembesa iBrithani, futhi ngemva kweminyaka eyishumi izindlu ze-curry zaqala ukutholakala lapho. Ku I-Planet Taco: Umlando Womhlaba Wonke Wokudla KwaseMexico, uJeffrey Pilcher uyabhala, โAma-Taco athola ukunakwa okubanzi ngo-1891 kuphela, ngokunyatheliswa kobuciko bobuciko bukaManuel Payno, Los bandidos de Rรญo Frรญo. "
E-United States, izitimela, iziqandisi, namaloli kwakha imakethe kazwelonke yezinto ezisetshenziswayo ezifana nesinkwa nenyama yenkomo. Lokhu kubangele ukuqhuma kwamasemishi enyama yenkomo eCambrian. I-Baltimore ithuthukise inyama yenkomo; I-Boston inenyama yenkomo eyosiwe; I-Philadelphia i-cheesesteak. The Bear ilethe isizukulwane esisha ukunaka kwenyama yenkomo yase-Italy yaseChicago. I-New York City ingafaka isicelo i-pastrami, lo Idiphu yaseFrance ivela e-Los Angeles, kanye nekhredithi ye- URubeni uya e-Omaha. (Inyama yenkomo yenyathi ku-weck iyi-outlier, kusukela ngo-1837. Igama libhekise ku kummelweck, umqulu ogqitshwe ngosawoti kanye nezinhlamvu ze-caraway.)
Njengoba izifunda zezentengiselwano zanda, ukudla kwasepulatifomu kwathengiswa ezindaweni zokudlela zama-mom-and-pop, imithombo ye-soda, nama-automats. Indawo yokudlela yekusasa, Horn & Hardart ama-automats aphakela abantu abangaba ngu-800,000 ngosuku abazithengele izitsha ezinjengophaya namasemishi aboniswe kumakhulukhulu ezikhala ezinamafasitela. Ngokulinganisa ukudla kwasepulatifomu, ukufihla inqubo yabasebenzi, kanye nokwenza ukudla kube okujwayelekile uwedwa, ngokushesha, futhi ubusuku nemini, ama-automats avula indlela yokudla okusheshayo. (Ezenzakalelayo, umdwebo ka-Edward Hopper wango-1927, uthwebula ukuhlukaniswa okudabukisayo kobuchwepheshe obusha bokudla.)
Ngemuva kweMpi Yezwe Yesibili, amaketanga okudla okusheshayo anikezela ngokudla kwasepulatifomu aqala ukuhambisana nezimoto nokukhangisa kwethelevishini. Izitolo zaphindeka kane ngeminyaka yawo-1970 njengoba abesifazane beyosebenza ngamanani amakhulu futhi ilungelo ladla inhlalakahle yomphakathi kanye nezinyunyana zaphansi. Abakhangisi bakhuthaza izisebenzi ezicindezelekile ngokuncipha kwemali nesikhathi ukuze zibone ukudla okusheshayo njengento edambisa izingcindezi zomkhaya nezomsebenzi. (I-jingle yakudala kaMcDonald, โUfanelwe ikhefu namuhla,โ ihlukaniswe yaba yi- inguqulo ye-Barry Manilow epholile imindeni emhlophe kanye I-R&B ithathwe nguJimmy Radcliffe yemindeni yabaNsundu.)
Ukudla kwenkundla yokuzijabulisa okunikezwayo kukwenza kube nzima ukumelana. Bahlanganisa izinhlangothi ezimbili ze-capitalism: indaba ngemicabango. Ukumaketha, ukwenza uphawu, kanye nokusebenza kwengqondo kuhlanganisa izinhlangothi zombili. Akuyona i-burger, i-pizza, noma i-soda ezokwenza; kufanele kube ekaMcDonald's, Domino's, noma iCoca-Cola. Sikholelwa ukuthi ukushintshisana ngemali ngeSidlo Esijabulisayo kunikeza izimfanelo zomlingoโinjabulo, injabulo, ubungane, ukwanelisekaโngaphandle kwalokho ukungabikho ekuphileni kwethu. Isifiso sempahla ethile efana Isemishi yenkukhu ebabayo kaPopeye ingaphoqelela abantu ukuba bashayele amakhulu amakhilomitha, bame kulayini amahora amaningi, futhi baze ngisho babulale. Kodwa noma yikuphi ukudla okusheshayo, ukuthembela kwethu kukho nokukufisa afihlekile izindleko zayo zangempela.
Ukudla kwepulatifomu kudala umjikelezo omuhle wokuthola imali. Isinyathelo ngasinye senqubo yokukhiqiza sibandakanya izisebenzi ezihola kancane, kusukela ekukhuleni nasekuvuneni okusanhlamvu, inyama, namafutha kuya ekucutshungulweni kwefekthri okusezingeni eliphezulu kuya ekuhlanganiseni ukudla ezindaweni ezithengisa ukudla okusheshayo. Lapho beqeda lo mjikelezo, lezi zisebenzi zivame ukuphila ngokudla kwasepulatifomu. Onxiwankulu bafuna okokufaka okumbalwa ngangokunokwenzeka ukuze bakhiqize izimpahla eziningi ngangokunokwenzeka. Izinto zokusetshenziswa ezimbalwa zisho umnotho wesilinganiso, izindleko eziphansi, kanye nenzuzo ephezulu. Okufakwayo okumbalwa kuphinde kuhambisane nokuthambekela kwekhephithali ku-monopoly.
Emzamweni wayo wokwenza kahle kanye nenzuzo, imali enkulu inciphise inani lezitshalo abantu abavame ukuzidla Izinhlobo ezingu-6,000 kuya kweziyisishiyagalolunye kuphela. Ubuningi buthathe indawo yokuhlukahluka, ukugunda ukudla kwabantu ezimpahleni ezimbalwa ezikhiqizwa ngezinga elimangalisayo. Cishe ama-5.5 trillion wamaphawundi kakolweni, irayisi, kanye nommbila kukhiqizwa emhlabeni wonke unyaka nonyaka (okuningi kwakho okokudla kwezilwane nama-biofuels). Lokho kungaphezulu kuka-1.4 trillion wamaphawundi inyama, amaqanda, Futhi kwasolwandle, amaphawundi ayizigidi eziyizinkulungwane ezingu-910 amafutha embewu futhi ubumnandi, kanye namalitha ayizigidi eziyizinkulungwane ezingu-230 ubisi.
Ososayensi bokudla baguqula lezi zakhi ezimbalwa zibe izinkulungwane zezinto ezisetshenziswayo namakhemikhali. Ngemva kwalokho ahlanganiswa abe yimikhiqizo enelungelo lobunikaziโimpahla yengqondo. Ukuze kuthuthukiswe ukwethembeka kwehlelo, imboni yezokudla ichitha cishe $14 billion ekukhangiseni unyaka futhi kabili kuleso samba ngokumaketha okungaqondile. Ukwethembeka kwabathengi kanye nezithako ezishibhile ukungcola zilingana nenzuzo yangaphandle. UMcDonald's uhola cishe amaphesenti angama-82 enza inzuzo ekuthengisweni kwawo okusoda kanye namaphesenti angama-72 athose amafrimu awo. Ukudla okusheshayo ishibhile, kodwa akukhona ukuthengiselana. Ukudla kwe-Big Mac eduze kwami โโe-Manhattan kubiza ngaphezu kuka-$14, kuyilapho kunezindawo eziyikhulu ezitholakala njengendawo yokulahla itshe ezinikeza ukudla okunambithekayo, okunomsoco futhi okushibhile.
Kulula ukuyihleka usulu i-Big Mac, futhi ngicabanga ukuthi inambitheka kabi. Kodwa uma sikhuluma iqiniso, wonke umuntu unokudla okungenamsoco okuthandayo, okuhlanganisa Abapheki abanenkanyezi ye-Michelin. UJulia Child futhi Paul Bocuse, umsunguli odumile we-nouvelle cuisine, bobabili batusa amafrikhi akudala akwaMcDonald aphekwe nge-tallow yenkomo. Endabeni yami, ngithanda u-Doritos, Oreos, Cheetos, no-ayisikhilimu ka-Ben & Jerry. Noma kunjalo, ngicabanga ukuthi leyo ncwadi ethengiswa kakhulu Ukuphela Kokudla Kakhulu akulungile uma ithi ukudla okugayiwe kuyalutha njenge-cocaine. Uma lokho kulungile, kubukeka kanjani ukuhoxa kuka-Doritos?
Ababhali abaningi banciphisa ukukhanga kokudla kwepulatifomu kwisayensi, besula umlando womphakathi. Amaqhinga ezepolitiki avumela ukukhula kwawo ngemuva kweMpi Yezwe Yesibili. Njengoba (mhlawumbe i-apocrypha) indaba iya, uWashington watshela abalimi ukuthi "yiba mkhulu noma uphumeโ ukukhuthaza ama-megafarm axhaswe ngabakhokhintela, futhi yahlomisa usizo lokudla lwamazwe ngamazwe ukwenza amazwe ancike emalini eyinsalela yempahla yasepulazini yase-US, njengoba uRaj Patel echaza Egcwele futhi Elambile. Ukudla kwe-platform kunamandla okusansimbi ekudleni kwethu ngoba abakhiqizi bokudla baye baklama isimo senhlalo ukuze baqinisekise ukuthi imikhiqizo yabo ikhona yonke indawo, kuyilapho bechoboza ezinye izindlela ngokungenalunya. Ngithole i-Doritos ethengiswayo ukusuka edolobheni lase-Canadian Arctic i-Inuvik ukuya emjondolo osehlathini laseGuatemala eLake Atitlรกn.
Ukudla kwepulatifomu kufaka isayensi yesimanje kanye ne-capitalism. Ukudla kunamandla kokubili njengomkhiqizo wamafutha ezinto ezimbiwa phansi nanjengamafutha ezisebenzi. Ziphinde zibonise impumelelo yesayensi echazayo yenkathi lapho u-Einstein abonisa khona indawo nesikhathi kwakungesicaba noma kungabonakali njengoba kwakucatshangwa ngaphambilini. Kunalokho, u-Einstein wafakazela ukuthi isikhathi somkhathi siyindwangu ehlangene yendawo yonke lapho isikhathi sigeleza khona ngesivinini esihlukene futhi umkhathi uyindawo engalingani.
Emkhathini wethu, ukudla kwepulatifomu kucindezela futhi kwandise isikhathi sesikhala. Ibhega yakwaMcDonald ingahamba emhlabeni wonke, ibe nenyama engaphezu kuka Izinkomo ezehlukene eziyi-100 ukhuliswe phakathi EBrazil, ePoland, eCanada nase-Australia kucindezelwe kube yipheshana elilodwa. Amaketanga okunikezwa kwenyama yenkomo, ukolweni, isiraphu yommbila, nobisi azungeza umhlaba wonke kucindezelana kube izindawo zokugcina izimpahla ezinkulu, iziqandisi, nezinqolobane. Isikhathi siyakhula njengoba izithako ezingavuthiwe zikhiqizwa unyaka wonke, zikhululwa ezinkathini zonyaka, futhi ukudla okugayiwe kugcinwa izinyanga noma iminyaka.
Kuyashesha ukwenziwa, uku-oda kuyashesha, futhi kuyashesha ukudla, ukudla kwenkundla kukhulisa ukuhamba kwendawo kwabasebenzi futhi kucindezela isikhathi abasidingayo sokugcwalisa uphethiloli. Izinkampani zokudla okungenamsoco zibumba isikhathi sethu sendawo ngokuba yonke indawo amahora angamashumi amabili nane ngosuku ukuze sikwazi ukudla noma kuphi, nganoma yisiphi isikhathi. Cabanga ukuthi uJohn Travolta wehla kanjani umgwaqo oseceleni waseBrooklyn Ngomgqibelo Night Fever udla ipizza kuyini kungase kube isenzakalo sokuqala esirekhodiwe yendlela yaseNew York ethi โgoqa, yidla, hambaโ.
Ukubunjwa kabusha kwe-gastronomic space-time kubonakala kakhulu ngaphandle kwekhaya. Siyadla Amaphesenti angama-70 akho konke ukudla kude netafula lethu lesidlo sakusihlwa, kufaka phakathi amaphesenti angama-20 ezimotweni. Akukaze kube khona emhlabeni ukuthi izigidi zabantu zikwazi ukugxilisa ubuso bazo ngenkathi zilimaza emigwaqweni emikhulu ngamamayela angamashumi ayisikhombisa nanhlanu ngehora.
Ngokwanda kwezinsizakalo zokulethwa, sisondela esicongweni Star Trek ngokuchitha isikhathi sesikhala ngokwaso. Ukhuluma igama lekhompyutha yakho ukuze u-ode noma yiluphi uhlobo lokudla, noma okungenani isifaniso sakho sokudla okusheshayo, okulethwa noma yikuphi lapho ukhona, noma nini lapho ufuna khona. Akukona njengoba kweso njengoba Isizukulwane Esilandelayoiziphindaphinda, kodwa qiniseka ukuthi i-capitalism iyasebenza kukho.
U-Arun Gupta iyintatheli ephenyayo ebhalele i Guardian, lo Daily Beast, lo Ngenisa, The Washington Post, nezinye izincwadi. Uthweswe iziqu eFrench Culinary Institute, ophekwe ngobungcweti eNew York City, futhi ungumbhali wokulandelayo, I-Apocalypse Chow: Umpheki Othanda Ukudla Okungenamsoco Uchaza Indlela IMelika Eyadala Ngayo Uhlelo Lokudla Oluguquguquka Kakhulu Emlandweni (Iphephandaba Elisha). Funda konke Imibhalo ka-Arun ku-Substack, bese umthumelela i-imeyili kokuthi [i-imeyili ivikelwe] ngombuzo, amazwana, noma ukujoyina uhambo lokudla.
I-ZNetwork ixhaswa kuphela ngokuphana kwabafundi bayo.
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