Masana ndi masana ndipo ndaimirira pamwamba pa bwalo lokhazikika, ngakhale losiyidwa kwakanthawi, la Israeli.
Kudzera mu lens yanga ya Nikon ndimatha kuwona mbendera yayikulu yaku Syria ikugwedezeka modabwitsa mumphepo. Mbendera ili pafupi, pafupi kwambiri, koma chifukwa chiyani sichiyenera kukhalapo - zonsezi ndi Syria, malinga ndi malamulo apadziko lonse.
Kumene mbendera ikugwedezeka, ndi Syria. Kuseri kwa mbendera, ndi Syria; ndipo Siriya ndi pamene ndaima tsopano, poonekera ndi kunjenjemera ndi chimphepo chozizira chochokera kumapiri.
Ndizowoneka bwino, zondizungulira, zowoneka bwino! Patsogolo pake - zowonongedwa ndi kusiyidwa - ndi zotsalira za nyumba ndi nyumba za tawuni ya Syria ya al-Qunaitra. Kumanzere, UN, kapena ndendende, maziko a UNDOF. Pali magalimoto oyera ndi magalimoto opepuka okhala ndi zida kumbuyo kwawo; pafupifupi ngati omwe ali kunja kwa Goma, East Kivu, ku DR Congo.
Koma apa, maziko a UN akukhala pamalo omwe amatchedwa Demilitarized Zone, kapena DMZ. Ndiko pakati pa kuyimitsa moto kwa 1974 UNDOF mizere Alfa ndi Bravo. Kupyolera mu DMZ imayenda monyezimira komanso yatsopano ya Israeli yokhala ndi minga, yamphamvu kwambiri, yosasinthika, komanso ngakhale kuwala kwake - melancholy - waya wa waya.
Pamwamba pa chisokonezo chonsecho, pamwamba pa phirili, pali gulu lalikulu lankhondo la Israeli, lomwe lili ndi ma radar ambiri, zida zomvera ndi tinyanga. Ndi patali, mwina mtunda wa kilomita imodzi, koma kamvekedwe kake kamamveka ngati ka mng'oma waukulu wa njuchi. Ndi zinthu zonyansa kwambiri - monga zojambula zina zokhudzana ndi nkhondo; chombo chankhondo choikidwa pamwamba pa phiri.
Ndikujambula ngalande zam'chipinda chogonamo; pamwamba pa phirilo panasanduka linga loti azilondera, ndiyeno zina za dzimbiri zakale, komanso mawaya atsopano onyezimirawo. "Ngozi! Yanga!โ Kwalembedwa, ndikuganiza mu mzimu wakumvetsetsa kwapadziko lonse lapansi, mu Chihebri, Chingerezi ndi Chiarabu. Zizindikiro izi zandizungulira. Ndikuyesera kuti ndisapite kutali ndi njira zazikulu, ngakhale apa ndi apo ndimasokera - zithunzizo ndi zamphamvu kwambiri, zokopa kwambiri.
Loya wa ufulu wachibadwidwe waku Israeli, Ms Lynda Brayer, yemwe adayenda nane kuchokera ku Haifa, tsopano wakhala mkati mwagalimoto. Ayenera kuti akuganiza kuti ndine wamisala pang'ono. Mosasamala kanthu za nkhaลตa yake ndi zotsutsa, ndinayendetsa galimoto yaingโono ya Nissan iyi kupita ku mapiri angapo, moyangโanizana ndi Suriya; Ndinaliyendetsa pafupi ndi malo ankhondo a Israeli; msewu kapena palibe msewu.
Koma sindingathe kukwanira - zithunzizo ndizolakwika kwambiri. Chowonadi chonse cha ntchitoyi - kulandidwa kwa Israeli ku Golan Heights - ndimisala, surreal, komanso mwanjira yake yoyipa - 'yangwiro'.
Ndiyeno zimandikhudzanso ndine wamisala. Masiku angapo m'mbuyomo, pa January 30, 2013, Israeli anaukira dziko la Syria, kuwononga malo kunja kwa Damasiko, pogwiritsa ntchito ndege zankhondo. Malinga ndi REUTERS:
Unduna wa Zachilendo udayitanitsa mkulu wa gulu lankhondo la UN ku Golan Heights komwe Israeli amalanda Israeli kuti apereke ziwonetsero patangopita tsiku limodzi Israeli atagunda zomwe Syria idati ndi malo ofufuza zankhondo ndipo akazembe akuti ndi gulu la zida zopita ku Lebanon.
"Syria ili ndi Israeli ndi omwe akuiteteza mu Security Council ndi udindo wonse pazotsatira za nkhanzazi ndipo ikutsimikizira kuti ili ndi ufulu wodziteteza, malo ake ndi ufulu wake," adatero wailesi yakanema yaku Syria.
Purezidenti waku Syria a Bashar el-Assad adalengeza patatha masiku angapo kuti: "Syria ikhoza kudziteteza ku" ziwopsezo zapano ... ndi nkhanza.
Chifukwa chake ndili pano, ndikuwululidwa kwathunthu, ndikuvala malaya anga obiriwira, nditaimirira pamwamba pa bwalo la Israeli, moyang'anizana ndi Syria kudzera pa lens yanga yayikulu. 'Zimenezo mwina si zanzeru kwambiri', ndinali kung'ung'udza, ndikuthamanga kutsika phiri kuti ndikabisale.
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Mapiri a Golan ndi okongola bwanji, okongola bwanji! N'zokongola chotani nanga mapiri otsetsereka obiriลตira ndi mitambo yochititsa mantha ya namondwe, yokumbatira pamwamba pa mapiri, monga ngati wotonthoza mtima.
Zomvetsa chisoni bwanji, zowopsa bwanji, momwe Golan Heights aliri! Zotchinga zankhondo zamwala zamphamvuzo, zofanana ndi makoma a nyumba zakale za Inca; kuyenda kosalekeza kwa zida zankhondo za Israeli - magalimoto ndi 4 ร 4 ndi akasinja - ndi kuzungulira, mipanda yosadziwika yomwe inkazungulira nyumba ndi midzi ndi matauni.
Zonse zilibe kanthu tsopano. Ndimaimitsa galimoto, kupha injini ndikumvetsera: Sindikumva mbalame iliyonse, kungong'ung'udza kosalekeza kuchokera kumapiri ozungulira.
โMโgawo lolandidwa la Golan Heights, anthu ambiri anathamangitsidwa; mwankhanza komanso mopanda ulemu โ, adandiuza a Joul Jammal, loya waku Israeli. โChigawo cha Aaramu chimenechi cholamulidwa ndi Israyeli, nโchochuluka kwambiri ndi Aarabu Achi Druze; okhalamo olimba mtima ndi onyada, amene sanagonje ku ntchito kwa zaka zambiri.โ Ma Druze amapanga gulu logwirizana kwambiri ndipo monga Bohras amaimira imodzi mwa nthambi za Ismailis. Malingaliro ena amati Druze kwenikweni ndi Asilamu, ena kuti sali konse.
Ena amanena kuti ntchito ya Golan Heights ndi 'yofewa', kuti anthu a Druze akusangalala ndi moyo wapamwamba, wapamwamba kwambiri kuposa m'mayiko ambiri a derali, kuphatikizapo Syria. The Economist Ngakhale adatsutsa kuti Israeli angabwezeretse Golan Heights ku Syria, ambiri mwa anthu okhalamo adzadwala matenda a Hong Kong.
Uku ndi kusanthula konyozeka kwambiri.
Nkhondo Yamasiku Asanu isanachitike mu 1967, anthu aku Golan Heights anali ndi anthu 145.000, kuphatikiza masauzande angapo a othawa kwawo aku Palestina. A Israeli adakakamiza anthu ambiri akumaloko kuthawa. Okwana 7.000 okha anatsala, ndipo ameneลตa anali mโmidzi yoลตerengeka chabe.
Mazana a midzi ndi midzi inagwetsedwa ndipo malo ambiri anaperekedwa kwa Ayuda okhalamo.
Ngakhale mzinda waukulu kwambiri wa ku Syria m'derali - Al-Quneitra - adalandidwa mu 1967, adabwerera ku Syria mu 1974, koma izi zisanachitike, adawomberedwa ndi kuponyedwa pansi.
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Tsopano malo okhala ku kibbutzim ndi Israeli akuwononga malo. Kulibe makampani a zaulimi okha. Merom Golan ndi Ein Zivan, omwe ali kutali ndi malire ndi msasa wa UN, amawoneka ngati mipanda yamakono, yomwe ili ndi zipata zotetezedwa kwambiri.
Famu ya "Organic ng'ombe" ikulengezedwa pamsewu waukulu. Chizindikirocho ndi chowoneka bwino ndipo mumatembenuza gudumu ndikuyendetsa phirilo, kuti mungolandiridwa ndi chipata chotsekedwa ndi waya wamingaminga. Ortal Winery imalengezedwa pamzerewu ndi msewu wopita ku Ortal Community. Mumayendetsa komweko, koma posakhalitsa, m'malo mokhala ndi chipinda chosungiramo vinyo chokongola mumapeza chipata chachikulu chachitsulo cholemera, chokhala ndi makamera owonera komanso kumva kochititsa chidwi.
"Ili ndi gulu lankhondo", akutsutsa Ms Brayer, "osati gawo la zomangamanga. Zili zosiyana kotheratu ndi zimene tikuona ku West Bank.โ
Tiyenera tank. Malo opangira mafutawa amangochitika zokha, ndipo palibe anthu oti aziwathandiza. Ili ndi makompyuta kwathunthu, ndipo imabisika kuseri kwa mpanda. Ngakhale kwa ine, izi ndizopita patsogolo kwambiri paukadaulo.
Posakhalitsa, galimoto ya asilikali inaima pafupi nafe. "Muli bwino?" tikufunsidwa.
"Chabwino", ndikunena. "Kodi mukudziwa momwe mungagwiritsire ntchito izi?" Ndikuloza pompa. Msilikaliyo akufotokoza mwachidwi. Safunsa mafunso okhudza zifukwa za kukhalapo kwathu mโderali. Ndi wodzidalira, wosungika, koma waubwenzi. Zenera langa latseguka ndipo pali makamera atatu akupumira poyera pampando wakumbuyo. Zingatenge chilango kuti musazindikire. Msilikaliyo akuona. Koma akuwoneka kuti samasamala.
Ku India, ku Pakistan, ku Congo - ndikadamangidwa kale ndikundiperekeza kumalo achitetezo kuti akandifunse mafunso. Pano, asilikali ali ndi mphamvu zonse ndipo alibe mantha. Ndinaonedwadi pamene ndinali kuyimirira pamwamba pa bwalo lawo, ndikujambula. Palibe amene akuwoneka kuti akuvutitsidwa.
Ndimufunsa msilikaliyo za chipinda chogonamo.
โNdi yosiyidwa; ngakhale pano. Mukufunsa za mkangano pano? Ayi, palibe - palibe chomwe chikuchitika. Palibe zoputa za ku Syriaโฆ Palibe zoputa kwa zaka zambiri. โ
"Ngakhale ma jets aku Israeli amawolokera ku Syria, masiku angapo apitawo?"
"Kunali chete apa", akutsimikiziranso. "Monga kuti palibe chomwe chinachitika."
Iye ndi mwana wamng'ono, wowoneka bwino, wamantha. Akuyankha mafunso anga mwachidule komanso molunjika, ngati kuti wayimirira kutsogolo kwa kalasi. Mnzakeyo ndi wosaleza mtima; akuwoneka kuti ali wofulumira.
"Pepani, ndiyenera kuthamanga", asitikali akundigwedeza.
Timayendetsa pachipilala chokumbukira chinthu chotchedwa "679 Brigade". Pali zojambulajambula za bellicose, ndi mbiri ina yolembedwa pamwalawo. Pali thanki ya Israeli yomwe yathetsedwa yoyimitsidwa pafupi. Ndikufuna masewera olimbitsa thupi. Ndimalumpha ndikugwira cannoni ndi manja onse awiri, kenako ndikuyiyikapo kwakanthawi. Ndimachita zokoka. Malo onse, komanso kupezeka kwanga pano, ndizodabwitsa, Kafkaesque.
Malo apafupi akusefukira ndi magalimoto aku Israeli onyamula tinyanga zazitali. Ndimapanga u-turn, kubwerera pakhomo ndikujambula malo onse. Zonse zili poyera; zikuwoneka kuti palibe zinsinsi.
Koma ku Haifa, Joul Jammal anandichenjeza kuti: "Zikuwoneka kuti gulu lankhondo siliwopa atolankhani. Amafuna kuwonetsa zonsezi ngati 'ntchito yowunikira'. Mutha kujambula ndi kujambula zomwe zili 'zotseguka'. Koma akapha komanso akawononga nyumba, amaphanso atolankhani nthawi ndi nthawi.โ
Timasilira maapulo pa khola laling'ono. Pali malingaliro achindunji achindunji ku Syria yopanda anthu kuyambira pano. Maapulo ndi yamatcheri - ndi zomwe Golan Heights imatchuka.
Ndipo imadziwikanso ndi kuthamangitsidwa kwa anthu ambiri! Palinso munda wina wamphesa pafupi ndi mpanda woopsa wawaya wamingaminga. Mwadzidzidzi ndimataya chikondi changa chonse chifukwa cha vinyo wabwino, kwanthawi ndithu.
โPano pali pheeโ, akumwetulira wogulitsa. "Kumveka komwe timafika kuno ndi kwa injini zamagalimoto, komanso kung'ung'udza kwa mawailesi ndi ma radar pamwamba pa phiri pamenepo".
Kupitilira pansi timapeza nsanja ndi mizinga ya thanki yakale, moyang'anizana ndi chigwa ndi mzinda waku Syria wa al-Quneitra. Idakwiriridwa pansi pansi, ndipo tsopano 'yokongoletsedwa' ndi zolemba. Patangopita mphindi zochepa tikuyenda chakumpoto, ndipo pali mabwinja omvetsa chisoni a gulu lomwe kale linali lankhondo la Syria. Udzu ndi wamtali pano, ndipo kungoti zii.
Kilomita imodzi kupitilira, ndipo mwadzidzidzi ndikuwona mabwinja akulu okhala ndi nsanjika zingapo: gulu lankhondo, kapena sukulu yosiyidwa?
Ndimaimika galimoto ndikuyenda mozungulira madamu akuya. Kenako ndimawawona: Asitikali aku Israeli, commando yonse, mfuti zokonzeka, kukwera makoma, kusewera masewera odabwitsa ankhondo. Akuchita masewera olimbitsa thupi.
Nthawi ina amandizindikira. Msilikali wina akuyenda kwa ine, pang'onopang'ono.
"Kodi zonse zili bwino?" Apa pakubwera funso lomwelo, komanso kusayanjanitsika komweko.
โChabwinoโ, ndikunena, ndikulozera mpangidwe wowola kwambiri. "Ichi chinali chiyani?"
"Bwalo lakale la Syria", akuyankha.
โNdingathe?โ Ndikuloza lens pa commando.
"Zedi", akugwedeza mapewa ndikuchoka.
"Hei", ndinakuwa kwa iye. "Ndikafika pafupi bwanji ndi malire ngati ndiyenda chonchi?"
โMadabwile ndi akuya,โ akumwetulira. โNdipo sunavale nsapato. Yendetsani chakumpoto ndipo mutha kukhala pampanda. โ
"Ndiwotcha bulu wanga pa masauzande a ma volts ako", ndikutero.
"Zowona", akuseka.
'Nthabwala', ndikuganiza; 'joke ya usilikali'. โZikomoโ, ndikutero.
Ndibwerera kugalimoto. Ndimayendetsa kumpoto.
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"Inde, mutha kupita mpaka kumalire," akutero munthu, chimphona, ndi mlonda, pakhomo la msewu wankhondo womwe umalowera kumalire ndi Lebanon. Iye ndi Druze, wamba. Samwetulira; samasewera. Tili ku Majdal al-Shams, tawuni yogawidwa yokhala ndi anthu 9, dera lalikulu kwambiri la Druze 'tawuni' ku Golan.
"Mutha kupita kukawona Phiri Lofuula. Ndiko kumene mabanja olekanitsidwa, osweka amakomana; kutiโ kumene angayangโanizane, ndi kukalipirana kudzera muwaya waminga.โ
Ndimamufunsa za ntchito ya Golan Heights. Sazengereza mphindi imodzi:
โNdine Msuriya,โ akutero. "Ndikufuna kuti malowa abwerere ku Syria!"
ndikudabwa; mwamuna saopa kufotokoza zakukhosi kwake. Ndi wonyada ndi wamtali komanso wogwirizana. Amandipatsanso dzina lake, lomwe sindimakonda kugwiritsa ntchito.
Mosiyana ndi anthu aku Palestine aku West Bank ndi Gaza, anthu kuno safunika kupempha zilolezo kuti apite ku Israel. Ili ndi 'gawo lophatikizidwa'. Kuyambira 1981 Golan Heights ikugwa pansi pa malamulo a Israeli, akuphatikizidwa mu dongosolo la Israeli la makhonsolo am'deralo. Anthu ammudzi akhoza kupita momwe angafunire; Atha kugwira ntchito ku Haifa kapena Tel Aviv. Atha kulembetsa ndikupeza nzika zaku Israeli, chiphaso cha ID, ngakhale pasipoti. Osakwana 10 peresenti amasankha izi. Anyada ndi aliuma: kwawo ndi Syria. Iwo akuyembekezera 'kubwerera kwawo', kuyembekezera kale kwa zaka zambiri.
โKodi pali mabanja ambiri ogawanika?โ Ndimufunsa mlonda.
โInde, ambiri. Nyumba zili mbali zonse ziwiri ndipo malire akuyenda pakati. โ
Ndimamufunsa ngati ali ndi achibale ena kumbali ina ya mpanda.
โInde, ku Jaramana, kumโmaลตa kwa Damasiko. Tonse timakumana mu Jordan, kamodzi mu kanthawi. Jordan ndi komwe mabanja ochokera ku Syria ndi Golan Heights amakumana. โ
Mzere wam'malire ndi mtunda wa kilomita imodzi kuchokera pakati. Ndi zowopsya, zowopsya. Poyerekeza ndi izi, malire akale a Nkhondo Yozizira ankawoneka ngati makwerero. Ndipo ngakhale malire apakati pa North ndi South Korea ali ndi mawonekedwe a 'wamba'.
Malire awa - pakati pa Syria ndi Syria yomwe idalandidwa - tsopano ali ndi zigawo zitatu zazitali za mipanda yamagetsi, yokhala ndi mawaya aminga. Pakati pake pali msewu wopapatiza wamagalimoto ankhondo aku Israeli. Ndipo pokhapokha, kuseri kwa zonsezi, pali nsanja za UN.
Chodabwitsa n'chakuti, zikuwoneka kuti palibe malire kumbali ya Syria.
Mafoni am'manja asanayambe kutsika mtengo, anthu ankabwera kuno, kumalire, kuchokera kumbali zonse ziwiri; iwo ankakonda kufola ndi nyanga za ngโombe kuti azicheza ndi achibale awo. Ndimauzidwa kuti amabwerabe, mwa apo ndi apo, kuti azingoyang'anizana, kudzera mu gridi yawaya waminga. Amabwera kuno kudzawona, kuzindikira nkhope za okondedwa awo.
Ndimagwedeza galimoto yonyamula katundu; Ndiyimitsa, ndikufunsa dalaivala kuti zinthu zoyipazi zidamangidwa liti.
"Zatsopano", akutero. "Koma izi sizinali kanthu. Bwererani m'miyezi ingapo: Aisrayeli akukonzekera kumanga khoma lenileni - lalitali ndi konkire. Ikwera posachedwa. โ
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Timalankhula ndi anthu angapo ku Majdal al-Shams ndi midzi ina ndi matauni aderalo.
Druze amatha kufotokozedwa ngati anthu omasuka komanso ochezeka. Amakhala mโchilengedwe chawochawo. Ali ndi chipembedzo chawochawo ndi nzeru zawo za moyo. Iwo amakhulupirira mu kubadwanso kwina ndipo pafupifupi samakwatira konse kuchokera mu fuko lawo.
Malinga ndi miyezo ya derali, Golan Heights ndi malo olemera kwambiri. Dongosolo laumoyo ndi maphunziro ndizofanana ndi zomwe zili mu Israeli, komanso ntchito zina zothandiza anthu.
Koma ili ndi dziko lolandidwa, limene anthu ambiri a mโderalo anathamangitsidwamo nkhondo itangotha. Tsopano midzi yachiyuda yafalikira m'derali.
Israeli anayesa kugwiritsa ntchito yapadera ya chikhalidwe cha Druze ndi chipembedzo kuti apindule: kutsimikizira mbadwa kuti iwo sali mbali ya Syria; kuti iwo ali mtundu wosiyana.
Monga momwe a Jammal anafotokozera: โIsraeli yakhala ikugwiritsa ntchito njira yogawanitsa ndi kulamulira; chinayesa kuyambitsa lingaliro la boma la Druze lachiphamaso, mwa kugwiritsira ntchito chenicheni chakuti anthu a Druze ali ndi chikhulupiriro chawochawo, chimene chiri kutali ndi Chisilamu chachikulu.โ
Koma Druze anakana, osachepera ambiri a iwo. Kubwerera ku Syria ndicho cholinga chawo, ngakhale patatha zaka makumi angapo a ntchito yomwe imatchedwa 'yofewa'.
Timauzidwa kuti anthu ambiri ochokera ku Golan Heights akufuna kuphunzira ku Syria. Pafupifupi 200 tsopano akupita ku mayunivesite kumeneko, kuti akhale madokotala, madokotala a mano ndi maloya. UN ikuwongolera kuwoloka kwawo malire, maulendo awo.
Kulimbana kwaposachedwa pakati pa Israeli ndi Syria kusanachitike, bungwe la UN lidathandizira kugulitsa maapulo ndi yamatcheri kuchokera ku Golan Heights kupita ku Syria komwe kunalibe. Tsopano zinthu zayima, pambuyo pa 'ulendo' wa ndege zankhondo za Israeli ndikuphulitsa bomba ku Syria, zomwe zidaphwanya malamulo apadziko lonse lapansi ndikuyambitsa kuphulika kwa mkwiyo m'dera lonselo.
โAnthu a kuno amakhala ngati kuti zonse zangochitika kwakanthawi. Monga ngati tsiku limodzi sipadzakhalanso malire, ", tikuuzidwa ndi ambiri ku Majdal al-Shams.
Anthu ena olemera akumanganso nyumba zawo zogona pafupi ndi malire, moyang'anizana ndi khoma. Chifukwa kuseri kwa lingalo kuli mapiri okongolawo. Ndipo tsiku lina, ndani akudziwa, pakhoza kukhala, kamodzinso, mawonekedwe osasokoneza.
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Pali ogwira nawo ntchito ku Golan Heights, ena ndi am'deralo ndipo ena ndi 'ochokera kunja'. Zowonadi, pali othandizira ambiri ku Golan Heights!
Mu lesitilanti yaying'ono, Falafel Abu, pakatikati pa Majdal al-Shams, amuna awiri akugawana chakudya chawo chamadzulo. Amafunsa mafunso; amafuna kudziwa zonse za ife ndipo sayesa n'komwe kubisa kuti ndi ndani, kutipatsa mayina awo, ma adilesi a imelo ndi manambala am'manja.
Munthu m'modzi ndi wamba; mwamuna wamtali amene anakhala zaka zambiri ku United States, ku Idaho, asanabwerere ku Golan Heights. Wina ndi Mkhristu wochokera ku Beirut, Lebanon.
โBambo anga anasamuka ku Lebanon kupita ku Toronto, Canada, mu 1990, nkhondo itatha. Ndinakhala kumeneko kwa nthawi ndithu, ndipo nditalandira pasipoti yanga ya ku Canada, ndinapita ku Israel ndipo ndinayamba kukonda dzikolo. Kenako ndinafika ku Golan Heights ndipo ndinapeza mabwenzi abwino pakati pa anthu a mtundu wa Druze. Ndinakwatira mtsikana wachikristu kuno, ndinapeza chilolezo chokhalamo, ndipo ndinakhala.โ
"Sizingakhale zophweka," akunong'oneza Lynda.
Panthawi ina, amuna onse awiri akuyamba kukankhira mzere wovomerezeka wa Israeli. Akudziwa kuti ndine mtolankhani wofufuza. Izi zikuwoneka ngati zikuwalimbikitsa - mwachiwonekere akufuna kuyankhula ndipo sakufuna kugwidwa mawu.
"Gulu lonse tsopano ndi Israeli. Tonse tili ndi malingaliro a Israeli - ndife otseguka, ophunzira; timayendaโฆโ
"Taonani munthu uyu", amaloza mwiniwake wa malo odyera a falafel yemwe, ndi masharubu ake amtundu wa Ottoman ndi maso aang'ono, anzeru, amatiwonera patali. โMwana wake ndi loya. Mwana wake wamkazi anaphunzira maphunziro apadera ndipo tsopano amagwira ntchito ndi odwala matenda amisala ku Spain.โ
Ndikuwafunsa za Syria.
"Tili ndi zigawenga! Tikufuna kuwona kusiyana kwa derali. Sitikufuna kuti anthu aziyitanira jihad.โ Amuna onse awiri amagwirizana. โIsraeli sadzabwerera ku Golan Heights ku Syria; pokhapokha ngati vuto la madzi litathetsedwa ndipo UN ikukhudzidwa. Ndipo ngakhale pamenepo, chifukwa chachitetezo, Israeli iyenera kusunga mapiri. โ
Munthu wamtaliyo ali ndi pasipoti ya Israeli. Mwamuna waku Lebanon ali ndi malo okhala ku Israeli.
Ndi anthu angati pano omwe amathandizira Purezidenti Assad?
โTheka ndi theka,โ iwo amati. Ndikudziwa kuti sizowona. Anthu ambiri amene tinalankhula nawo kuti amuthandize.
Kenako imayamba: kuchuluka kwa clichรฉs, iwo anali akugwira kwa pafupifupi ola limodzi. Mwamuna waku Lebanon akuyamba kuyankhula kwake:
"Zikuwonekeratu kuti Chisilamu chikufuna kukhala mdani wa dziko lonse lapansiโฆ Tawonani zomwe zikuchitika ku Egyptโฆ Ndikuchita mantha kubwerera ku Lebanon tsopano; mantha ngakhale kudzacheza. Azondi onse a Hezbollah kumeneko. Ndimakonda Israeli!โ
Tall, wakomweko/'Idaho Man' akuphatikizana ndi mawu achisoni ku Israel: โAnthu kuno amadziwa momwe angakhalire mwamtendere ndi gulu lachiyuda. Zedi, ena 10% amatsutsa ntchitoyo. Koma pafupifupi achichepere onse amakhulupirira kuti Israyeli ndiko kwawo. Tsopano Golan Heights ndi malo abata, amtendere koposa onse mu Israeli.โ
Pamapeto pake, amuna onsewa amachoka. Inde, Golan Heights ndi gawo labata kwambiri padziko lapansi. Zili choncho chifukwa pafupifupi 80 peresenti ya anthu akumeneko anathamangitsidwa mโnyumba zawo. Ndi chifukwa chakuti midzi yawo, midzi ndi matauni zinawonongedwa. Ndi chifukwa chakuti mipanda yowopsya inamangidwa. Amuna awiriwa adayiwalanso kutchula kung'ung'udza koyipa kuchokera pamwamba pa mapiri onse am'deralo - ma radar, mawailesi, zida zomvera. Ndipo anaiwala kutchula akasinja ndi magalimoto onyamula zida, kumayenda chokwera ndi chotsika misewu yopapatiza.
Golan Heights - dziko la yamatcheri ndi maapulo, mabwinja a midzi ndi matauni, ma commandoes aku Israeli akusewera masewera ankhondo mkati mwa nyumba zowonongedwa zaku Syria.
Pamene amuna awiri amachoka, tinapita kwa mwiniwake wa lesitilanti ya falafel.
"Mumapanga falafel wabwino kwambiri padziko lapansi", ndikumuuza, chomwe ndi chowonadi chosatsutsika. "Tsopano chonde, ndiuzeni mukuganiza bwanji za zomwe zikuchitika ku Syria?"
"Ndakhumudwa kwambiri ndi zomwe zikuchitika kumeneko", akuyankha, pang'onopang'ono. โPali zowonongeka zambiri, kuvutika kochuluka, kachiwiri. Sizolondola zomwe zikuchitika kumeneko. Ndikuda nkhawa ndi banja langa lomwe silidutsa malire. Anthu ambiri kuno amawatcha 'osintha' ku Syria - zigawenga. Kodi zinthu zinali bwino โkuukiraโ kusanayambe? Motsimikizirika kwambiri.โ
Ndi tsiku lathu lachiwiri pano, kutha kwa tsiku lachiwiri.
Kagulu kakang'ono kamakhala mkati mwa sitolo ya maswiti. Chakudya ku Majdal al-Shams ndichabwino. Kulankhula momasuka kwa anthu akumeneko nโkodabwitsa.
Ndipo zomwe timamva kuchokera kwa anthu am'deralo ndizosiyana ndendende ndi zomwe zimaperekedwa kwa ife ndi zabodza za Israeli:
"Tikufuna kubwerera ku Syria. Zigawenga ndi zigawenga. Assad ali panjira ya Kumadzulo kupita ku Iran; Kumadzulo ndi Israeli akufuna kumukankhira pambali ndikukonzekera njira yawo yopita ku Tehran. Tonse tikudziwa kuti Qatar ikulipira 'opanduka'. Ngati Russia ndi China sagonjera Kumadzulo, Assad sadzagwa.
Tisanasiyana tsiku lapitalo, mlonda wa pamsewu wopita ku Lebanon analongosola kuti: โTonsefe tiri ogwirizana ndi Syria kuno. Timawonera kanema wawayilesi waku Syria; tikutsata zochitikazo. Ambiri mwa anthu am'deralo amadzizindikiritsa ndi Assad. Timakonda Assad pano. Koma Kumadzulo ndi ku Israel, amangodana ndi atsogoleri anzeru achiarabu. Amakonda ndikuthandizira zitsiru za ku Qatar, Bahrain ndi Saudi Arabia!
Ndilo lingaliro lomwelo lomwe ndidamva kuchokera kwa anthu aku Hatay, kumalire a Turkey ndi Syria, komwe ndidafufuza misasa yophunzitsira yaku Western yomwe ikupanga zomwe zimatchedwa 'Kutsutsa kwa Syria': http://www.opendemocracy.net/andre-vltchek/when-is-syrian-opposition-syrian
Anthu amadandaulanso za kuwongolera kwa Israeli panyumba. Payenera kukhala chilolezo chovomerezeka kuti amange nyumba iliyonse yatsopano, ndipo chilolezo chotere chimawononga ndalama zambiri. Mโtauni imeneyi mokha, nyumba pafupifupi 1.000 zikusowa; Israeli samalola kuti midzi ya Druze ikule - kukula kumasungidwa kwa midzi yachiyuda yokha. Anthu amakhala mโmikhalidwe yopanikizana. Nyumba zomangidwa popanda zilolezo zovomerezeka zimagwetsedwa.
Kenako timauzidwa za dongosolo la 'demokalase' m'dera lolandidwali: โNzika za Syria - zambiri - zilibe ufulu wovota. Israel imakakamiza oyimilira ake omwe asankhidwa ndi Druze, kuti apange zomwe zimatchedwa 'makhonsolo akumidzi kapena matauni'. Onse amakhala ndi othandizana nawo ndipo amanyamula mapasipoti aku Israeli ndi makhadi ozindikiritsa. Nโzosachita kufunsa kuti makhonsolo amenewo sali pano kuti athandize anthu a mโderalo.โ
*
Pamene ndikuyendetsa kumalire a Lebanoni, ndimakumana ndi malo okongola kwambiri padziko lapansi: Phiri la Hermoni kapena Jabal al-Shaykh m'Chiarabu - nsonga yayitali kwambiri ku Syria ndipo tsopano 'malo otchinga' pakati pa Syria ndi Israeli adalanda Golan Heights. Pamwamba pa phirili pali malire a Syria ndi Lebanon.
Pamene ndikuyendetsa patsogolo, maso anga akugwera pa Nimrod Fortress, yomwe inamangidwa cha m'ma 1229 ndi Al-Aziz Uthman, mphwake wa Saladin komanso mwana wamng'ono wa Al-Adil I. Qala'at al-Subeiba, "Castle of the Large Cliff" m'Chiarabu ndipo inkayenera kuletsa kuukira kwa Damasiko ndi otenga nawo mbali pa Nkhondo Yachisanu ndi chimodzi. Izi ndi zododometsa chotani nanga! Chimanga chachikulu, champhamvu chomwe chinkateteza dziko lachisilamu ku nkhanza ndi mantha ochokera kwa ma imperialists oyambirira a Kumadzulo, tsopano akuwoneka kuti alibe mphamvu komanso osagwira ntchito, akukumbatira mwachisoni pathanthwe, osatha kukana.
Ndikuganiza za Joul Jamal. Anandiuza, ku Haifa kuti: โIsraeli idzakakamizika kubwerera ku Golan Heights, tsiku lina. Koma sichingachite mwakufuna kwake. Atsamunda akuyenera kukakamizidwa kuti achoke. Palestine ndi Golan Heights, ndizofunika kwambiri: popeza zili patsogolo pankhondo yolimbana ndi imperialism. "
Ndikuganizanso za wolemba mabuku wamkulu waku Israeli Amos Oz ndi zomwe ndangowerenga kumene:
Chimodzi mwazinthu zomwe zimapangitsa kuti mkanganowu ukhale wovuta kwambiri ndikuti mkangano wa Israeli-Palestine, mkangano wa Israeli ndi Aarabu, kwenikweni ndi mkangano pakati pa ozunzidwa awiri. Awiri ozunzidwa ndi wopondereza yemweyo. Europe, yomwe inkalamulira dziko la Aarabu, idawadyera masuku pamutu, idanyozetsa, idapondereza chikhalidwe chake, idachilamulira ndikuchigwiritsa ntchito ngati bwalo lamasewera a imperialism, ndi Europe yomweyo yomwe idasala Ayuda, kuwazunza, kuwazunza, ndipo pamapeto pake, misa- anawapha mโchigamulo chosaneneka chopha anthu. Tsopano, mukadaganiza kuti ozunzidwa awiri nthawi yomweyo amakhala ndi mgwirizano pakati pawo - monga, mwachitsanzo, mu ndakatulo ya Berthold Brecht. Koma m'moyo weniweni, mikangano ina yoyipa kwambiri ndi mikangano yapakati pa anthu awiri omwe amazunzidwa ndi wopondereza yemweyo ...
Kenako ndikufika kumalire ndi Lebanon. Mpanda winanso woyipa kwambiri wokhala ndi mawaya aminganga, ma gridi yamagetsi, zikwangwani zochenjeza motsutsana ndi mabomba okwirira. Pali mtengo wosweka, chipilala cha msilikali wakufa, ku moyo wotayika.
Ndikusiya galimoto ndikuyenda mozungulira mowopsya. Ndikuganiza za malire onse amene ndinawaona mโchigawo chino cha dziko chimene, zaka mazana ambiri zapitazo, chinali chamtendere ndi chomasuka. Malire pakati pa Israeli ndi Lebanon, pakati pa Golan Heights ndi Syria, pakati pa Turkey ndi Syria, pakati pa Jordan ndi Saudi Arabia, Jordan ndi Palestinian West Bank, malire pakati pa Egypt ndi Gaza, ndi malire ena ambiri osafunikira.
Zonse zinali zitasokonezedwa bwino. Panalibe njira zosavuta zothetsera. Ulamuliro wa Azungu unali kuyambitsa mikangano mโchigawo chonsecho; mikangano pa mafuta, mikangano pa zofuna za dziko. Ogwirizana kwambiri a Kumadzulo: Saudi Arabia, Israel, Qatar ndi Turkey - onse akuchita gawo lawo la ntchito yowononga, kuchepetsa ndi kugawa gawo lakale la dziko lathu lapansi kukhala mbali zomvetsa chisoni komanso zazing'ono za nthaka zolekanitsidwa ndi makilomita osatha a waya waminga.
Ndinayamba kujambula malire ozungulira. Ndinachita mwachidziwitso. Ndinamva kutopa ndi chisoni.
Kenako galimoto yankhondo yaku Israeli inaima pafupi ndi ine.
"Muli bwino?" Apanso.
Panthawiyi ndinali ndi zokwanira. Ndinagwedeza dzanja langa kumpanda wopanda malire, kumalo osungiramo mabomba ndipo ndinafuula pa galimoto yolondera kuti: โAyi, sindine. Ndinu?โ
Monga pafupi ndi Al-Qunaitra, msilikaliyo anali mwana chabe, wolembedwa ntchito, wovala magalasi.
Iye anakwiya. Anasuntha milomo yake; ngati akunena kuti 'Ndikudziwa, ndikudziwa, ndiye tichite chiyani?'
Kenako anandimwetulira, asanaponde pa accelerator.
"Mukutsimikiza kuti mukhala bwino?"
โNdikhala bwino,โ ndinayankha. Ndipo ine ndinawonjezera pansi pa mpweya wanga: 'iwe ndi ine tidzakhala bwino. Koma sindikutsimikiza za enawo.'
Andre Vltchek ndi wolemba mabuku, wopanga mafilimu komanso mtolankhani wofufuza. Anafotokoza za nkhondo ndi mikangano mโmaiko ambiri. Buku lake la Western imperialism ku South Pacific - Oceania - lofalitsidwa ndi Expathos. Bukhu lake lokopa lonena za post-Suharto Indonesia komanso mtundu wokhazikika pamsika umatchedwa "Indonesia - The Archipelago of Fear"(Pluto). Atakhala zaka zambiri ku Latin America ndi Oceania, Vltchek tsopano amakhala ndikugwira ntchito ku East Asia ndi Africa. Iye akhoza kufikiridwa kudzera mwa iye webusaiti.
ZNetwork imalandira ndalama kudzera mu kuwolowa manja kwa owerenga ake.
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