W
landirani ku Hotel Satire, anthu
ndi inu gals. Hotelo ndi malo omwe amuna amakhala olamulira komanso
magalasi ndi okongoletsera, ngati mphonje pamutu wa nyali.
m'mibadwo yonse gals amafunikira ena kuti awafotokozere kuti
amakhalabe osafunikira monga momwe chilengedwe chimafunira-monga kukoma kwa zipatso
zovala zamkati.
Ma gals ku Satire Hotel amayesa kutsatira malangizo a gal
m'ma TV osiyanasiyana chifukwa sitikudziwa kuti ndife ndani kapena chiyani
tikufuna. Tinapeza nkhani (yochokera m'buku) yotchedwa "The
Akazi a Nyengo Yatsopano” mu
Magazini ya Parade
pa Januware 12,
2006 ndiwothandiza kwambiri pankhaniyi. Wolemba Gail Sheehy akudziwa
zonse za galu wodziwika bwino chifukwa adayendayenda m'dziko lonselo
nalankhula ndi ena a iwo.
Zikuoneka kuti magalasi okoledwa ali, ngati vinyo wovuta, “wonunkhira,”
"marinated," "wokoma," "tart," "wonyezimira,"
"mellow," ndi "kutsegula kugonana, chikondi, chibwenzi, maloto atsopano,
kufufuza zauzimu ndi kukonzanso maukwati awo kuposa kale
kale.” Uwu. Ndani ankadziwa? Komanso ndi zatsopano bwanji! Chifukwa chiyani izi zachitika
kwa gals okoma? Chabwino, iwo “anakutidwa mu Choyamba chawo
Kukula, pamene cholinga chawo chinali kulera ana, amuna
kapena ntchito—kapena zonse zitatu.” Tsopano afika pa “Second
Ukulu.” Gail akutiuza kuti titha kutenga njira zitatu: kubwezeretsanso kugonana,
maloto atsopano, ndi kufufuza kwauzimu. Kodi izi sizodabwitsa?
Ndipo mwachindunji, nawonso.
Koma tiyeni tivomereze, Agalas, nthawi yomwe timasowa kwambiri
ya malangizo ndi m’Masika pamene tiyenera kusankha zovala ndi
mawu oti tipange ndi zomwe timavala kuti tikwaniritse zoyambira zathu
ntchito ngati zokongoletsera. Ndipo ndi ndani amene angawauze gals aku US za izi
kuposa gulu la (makamaka) amuna a ku Ulaya.
Chifukwa chake, a Gals, tili pano kuti tikudziwitseni zomwe mwapangidwa
mu Spring ino ya 2006. O, mwa njira, tiyeni tonse tipume
kusangalala kuti ma feminazi ndi ma femiteroristas a 1960s/1970s,
ndi zofuna zawo zosamveka za kudzifotokozera komanso kudziyimira pawokha, sanatero
bwino kuteteza gals kukhala zinthu zokongoletsera, monga siliva
zomanga pa chikwama kapena pilo pa sofa kapena antimacassars pa
kumbuyo kwa mpando wakumanja. Koma ife tikupita.
Kuti tipeze mawu omaliza okhudza mafashoni, tinapita, ndithudi, ku mafashoni
news of record, the
New York Times Sunday Style Magazine
.
Ife tikanapita ndi
Boston Globe's Spring Fashion
magazini
, yomwe imati gals amavala zosindikizira (zigzags, paisleys,
ndi maluwa), koma amenewo sangakhale mawu omaliza, sichoncho? Ngakhale
tidakonda chovala chomwe chili pagalasi, mosadziwika bwino, pafupi ndi a
bulldozer. Bulawusi yake ya Escada idabedwa pa $895. Tinkakondanso
lamba wake wa $325 Yves Saint Laurent. Chinthu chake ndi chakuti
Globe
Sichoncho
tiuzeni mtundu wa mawonekedwe omwe tiyenera kupita nawo, kupatula mwina amphamvu
ndi surly, kuphatikiza kutikumbutsa kuvala nsapato zotseguka, zazitali zazitali
pamene akugwira ntchito makina olemera. Iwo amachita pang'ono kutanthauzira mu
ndi
Globe's
"Style Section" yokhala ndi mafashoni
nkhani yolembedwa mochenjera, "Ufulu wa Spring." Pano
timaphunzira kuti ngati tivala chovala chamaluwa cha Calvin Klein
kapena kusindikiza kwa atitchoku ya Diane von Furstenberg pa Bermuda
zazifupi zomwe tikuwonetsa "ufulu wochita zamaluwa."
Tikavala mikwingwirima ya Marc Jacob timavala ngati 1950s
mayi wapakhomo ndi kusonyeza ufulu wobereka mikwingwirima. Izi ndi zabwino
kudziwa, monga ife kawirikawiri amadabwa mmene ntchito zamaluwa wathu ndi
kunyamula mikwingwirima yathu.
Koma
Times
ndiye womaliza pa nkhani zamafashoni ndi
ali ndi zambiri zoti atiuze. Mwachitsanzo, mu "SundayStyles"
ya March 5, 2005, akutiuza kuti ndife “Zonse Zakutidwa
Muli mu Chitsimikizo.” Wolemba, Guy Trebay, akulemba za momwe
kusamala kugwa kwa mafashoni kunali ndiyeno akuti, "An
kuyesayesa kwamagulu mosadziwa kukuwoneka kuti kwachitika pano [pakati pa okonza]
kutsimikizira anthu ogula kuti, kutali ndi kukhala gawo lomwe
kulakwa kumalimbikitsidwa kapena kusiyana kulandiridwa, mafashoni achi French
imakhala yokhazikika, ngakhale kuti ndi yopusa ngati Frigidaire. " Pa?! Ife
sindikudziwa zomwe zikutanthauza, koma ziyenera kukhala zofunika kapena
Times
sakadafalitsa, sichoncho? Trebay amapita
kutiuza kuti zosonkhanitsira zapano zikuwoneka kuti zikuwonetsa zimenezo
akazi amavala ngati mabedi osamalidwa kapena zinthu za zomangamanga kapena zotsika
ma duvets kapena flatware. Kapena yesani kuoneka ngati Barcaloungers
yokhala ndi mitundu yofanana ndi khomo lachiberekero.” Nkhani
imakhala ndi gal yokhala ndi armrest ngati kolala yamajasi ndi gal yemwe amawonekera
kuvala chovala chake chosambira ngati chovala.
Kusamukira ku
Magazini ya Fashion
, timaphunzira modabwitsa
zinthu monga "Black ndi wobiriwira watsopano" ndi "Nthawi zina
Thumba Si Thumba Lokha” ndi kuti "chikwama mania chimatanthawuza zathu
nthawi yopeza-misala monga momwe tulip fever amafotokozera zaka za zana la 17
Holland" ndi kuti Eva "anayesedwa kwenikweni" ndi bohemian
zodzikongoletsera zokongola ndi "Mu Mafashoni, monga m'moyo, zonse zili mkati
kupotoza.” Uwu!?
Timaphunziranso kuti wojambula Marina Abramovic amawombera thupi lake
Galliano zolengedwa, "pamodzi ndi mafupa apulasitiki owonetsera
kuti amavomereza ndi kuvomereza imfa yake." Wokondedwa kwambiri
ndi gals wamng'ono ndi "Louisiana kugula" kumene mlengi
Ernest Bellocq amaphatikiza madiresi owoneka bwino a zidole za ana ndi New Orleans '
mawonekedwe a tsiku la "red-light ladies" azaka za zana.
Tidakonda kwambiri gulu la "Do's & Donas".
za zingwe, ma ruffles, ndi mathalauza owerenga chifukwa "kasupe uyu,
Chispanya chimalankhulidwa kulikonse.” Sitikudziwa momwe amachitira
dziwani zimenezo, koma ziribe kanthu. Amatcha zovala izi "La Conquistadors,"
ndi “Zogula za ku Spain.” Oo! Ku Hotel Satire tili ndi
Ndinalakalaka kukhala ndi chovala chomwe chimati "Ndikupha,
kuzunza, kuyeretsa fuko, ndi kuwotcha anthu amoyo.”
Timakondanso mafashoni a "maluwa a m'chipululu" kumene "iwe
mwina simungathe kumva fungo la maluwa, koma mutha kuvala zina
za zolembedwa zowoneka bwino za nyengoyi.” Mnyamata mu mndandanda uno
ankawoneka ngati cadaver. Tinaganiza kuti anali kunena kuti gals, pamene
kuvala ma daisies, ayeneranso kuwakankhira mmwamba.
Chinthu china chokondedwa chinali kufalikira kwa mafashoni ponena za nsapato zotchedwa "zabwino
osati kugonana,” lomwe limati, “Osati kuyambira m’zaka za zana la 16,
pamene anthu a ku Venice anagwedezeka ndi nsapato zapamwamba
zokhala ndi zitsulo zokhuthala], nsapato zakhala zokhutiritsa chotere.”
Sitinagwirizane zambiri. Nsapato iliyonse yomwe imalimbikitsa kugwedezeka, ngakhale
kukomoka kwenikweni, ndi orgasmic, kunena pang'ono. Ifenso tatero
anapeza kuti, pamene mukukayika ponena za zovala, funsani m’zaka za zana la 16
ndipo simungathe kulakwitsa.
Lingaliro lathu lomwe timakonda kwambiri la mafashoni linali pakufalitsidwa kotchedwa "Agit
Props: ndipo tsopano, atatu amasangalala ndi zigawenga ndi malingaliro awo a puckish
za dziko.” Choyamba, tili ndi "Militarism" komwe
timaphunzira kuti kupanduka kumawoneka ngati kuvala zotopa zankhondo!
(Jaketi, $1,820; siketi ndi nsapato, $2,430.) Mu “Kupulumuka:
chomangidwa ndi zingwe, chovala chilichonse chimakhala ndi tanthauzo lina.” Ayi.
Nthawi zonse tinkafuna kukhala osagwirizana ndi omangidwa. Mu "Colonialism:
podula ndi kukoka ma tartani opanda paketi, atero a Rei Kawakubo
atsamunda amasiku ano: mwasochera.”
O, mai, openga aja a neocoloniists ayenera kupeza chitsanzo-a
kusindikiza, maluwa, mikwingwirima, zotupa zamagazi, chinachake, cha chrissakes.
Mu "Existentialism: ndikuyembekeza kusungunula kapangidwe ka zovala,
mlengi Martin Margiela anamaliza mbali imodzi yokha ya diresi, kulola
ina imasungunuka kukhala bawuti wansalu (kwa $395).” Zodabwitsa.
Magalasi ngati osamalizidwa, mabawuti a nsalu. Konda. Mu "Environmentalism:
ndi ma jekete ake a Edwardian obiriwira ankhondo ndikugula T-shirt
madiresi, Junya Watanabe akuyembekeza kukopa ma punks, koma adasintha
m'malo mwake." Hmmm. Palibe chofanana ndi Edwardian
nthawi yoyitanitsa ma punks ndipo palibe chilichonse ngati ma punks kukumbutsa ma gals kuti
cholinga chawo m'moyo ndi kuvala chilengedwe! Monga ife
timakonda masitayilo awa, tikuganiza kuti timakonda ang'ono okongola
Bottega Veneta shirtdress, chikumbutso cha $ 6,800 cha June Cleaver.
Titsanzike pano kuchokera ku Hotel Satire komwe ma gals avala June
Cleaver shirtdress masika ano-pamodzi ndi survivalist existential
Edwardian m'zaka za m'ma 16 Venetian conquistador neocolonialist desert
kolala yampando wankhondo wakufalikira. Kapena, monga ad Vera Wang akukumbutsa
ife, gals kwenikweni dummies kwa draping wopanda tanthauzo ndi
zovala zowonetsera!
Lydia
Sargent ndi wosewera komanso wolemba masewera. Iye ndi woyambitsa nawo South End
Onetsetsani ndipo
Z Magazine
ndipo adatumikira ndodo yoyamba
kuyambira 19781988 ndi pa ndodo ya
Z
kuyambira 1988 mpaka pano.
