Aruna, mukoti ane makore 19 okukura wandakasangana naye kumaodzanyemba kweIndia mudunhu reTamil Nadu, akafanana zvikuru nedzimwe shamwari dzangu muWashington, DC—akajeka, asina kuroora, anozvivimba, anoda basa rake. Anotaura nokukasika uye nounyanzvi, asingamire kunwa tii yake uye haamboiti kana kumbomira kufema. Pandakatanga kusangana naye muCoimbatore, guta rinozivikanwa neindasitiri yezvemachira, ari pazororo rake rekudya kwemasikati, akapfeka yunifomu yake chena ichangobva kupiswa uye tsvuku yechivanhu. bindi dovi pahuma.
Dai Aruna aive mumwe weshamwari dzangu muDC, hapana angadai achimubvunza kuti sei asati arohwa. Asi mumusha wekumusha kwaAruna, kana usati wawana murume pazera rako rekutanga 20s, uri murwendo rwakaoma. "MuIndia, mukadzi ane moyo wakanaka nekuti akaroora,” anodaro Srimati Basu, purofesa anobatira paYunivhesiti yeKentucky uyo ari nyanzvi pachimiro chavakadzi muIndia. “Kushaikwa kweroorano kunotyisa kumunhu, mhuri, uye nzanga.”
Kuti varoorwe, vasikana vemumusha weTamil vakaita saAruna vanoda madzimambo matatu egoridhe eBritish - bullion mari yeroora—yakaenzana neinenge $1,200. Pamwe chete, vabereki vaAruna vanoita isingasviki $400 pagore.
Semwana, Aruna akarota kuenda kukoreji. Asi paakanga ava nemakore 15, paakapedza chikoro chaaipiwa nehurumende, akanzwisisa kuti akanga ari murombo zvikuru. Ipapo, mumwe munhu waasingazivi akavimbisa kuchinja upenyu hwake. Akamupa basa pafekitori yembatya yakapa makambani anosanganisira, kusvika nguva pfupi yadarika, UK-based maternity wear maker. Mothercare. Muripo wake waizova anenge madhora zana neshanu pamwedzi—inokwana zvokudya zvemhuri yake, dzidzo yake yokuwedzera, uye zvinotokosha zvikuru, mukana wokuvaka roora.
Apo Aruna akasvika pafekitari, anenge makiromita 40 kubva kumba kwake, akawana chivako chihombe umo vasikana vanoda kusvika 1,000 10, vakawanda vakanga vachiri kuyaruka, vaigara 15 kana kuti 8 nekamuri rimwe chete. Kubva na10 mangwanani kusvika na24 manheru zuva rega rega, kusanganisira kupera kwevhiki, aipa uye aiongorora michina ine ngura yairuka donje mbishi kuita shinda. Vakuru vake vaiwanzomumutsa pakati pousiku nokuti, anoyeuka kuti “nguva dzose pakanga pane rimwe rudzi rwebasa, maawa 105 pazuva.” Aruna aingoita chikamu chimwe muzvina chemadhora zana neshanu pamwedzi aakavimbiswa, inenge madhora 0.84 pazuva.
Aruna anondiratidza vanga paruoko rwake, rinopfuura inchi kureba, apo muchina akamucheka. Aiwanzoona vasikana vachifenda nekumira kwenguva refu. Mumwe akadamburwa bvudzi paakabatwa mumushini. Vamwe vakashungurudzwa nevakuru vavo. “Vakati taizowana basa shoma kana tikarara navo,” anodaro Aruna. Dzimwe nguva vasikana vainyangarika, uye munhu wese aifunga kuti vakafa here kana kuti vatiza. Kunyange zvakadaro, aida mari yacho, saka akashanda ikoko kwemakore maviri. Mushure mekunge aenda, sangano rinomirira vashandi vembatya rinonzi Care-T rakamubatsira kuwana basa rake pari zvino kuchipatara, uko ari kuchengeta zvishoma nezvishoma mari yeroora. Pandinobvunza kana achiri kuona kukoreji, Aruna anodzungudza musoro uye misodzi inozadza maziso ake. Asi anenge pakarepo, anodzipukuta. Hapana chikonzero chekufunga nezvazvo, sezvo achitova nemari yakatsiga. “Ndave kufarira basa rangu kuchipatara izvozvi,” anodaro. Shamwari dzake dzakawanda dzichiri kushanda pafekitari. (Mazita aAruna nevamwe vaimbova vashandi vemufekitari akachinjwa kuti vadzivirire pakutsiva.)
MuTamil Nadu, vanhu vazhinji vanoziva musikana akafanana naAruna, mumwe munhu akanyengedzwa kushanda mumafekitari enguo ane chivimbiso chekuwana roora. Iyo scheme yakajairika zvekuti inotova nezita: sumangali, shoko rechiTamil rinoreva "mukadzi akaroorwa ane mufaro." A 2011 report nemapoka eDutch watchdog Center for Research on Multinational Corporations uye India Komiti yeNetherlands akawana kuti mafekitori esumangali akashandisa zvinofungidzirwa Vashandi ve120,000, vamwe vane makore gumi nematatu, uye vakapa makumi emakambani epasi rese, kusanganisira Gap (iyo yakaramba mhosva), H&M, American Eagle Outfitters, naTommy Hilfiger.
Chivako chaApril apfuura chakadonha mukati Rana Plaza yeBangladesh, iyo yakauraya vanopfuura 1,000 XNUMX, yakakwevera ngwariro kwenguva pfupi kunhamo yevashandi venguo. India ndiyo yakatokura pasi rose mutambi kupfuura Bangladesh: Ndiyo wechitatu mukurusa machira uye hembe mutengesi kunze munyika (mushure meChina neEuropean Union), ine anenge madhora 29 bhiriyoni mukutengesa kwe2012. Pakati paChikumi 2012 naChikumi 2013, United States yakaunza mbatya dzedonje dzinokosha 2.2 bhiriyoni kubva kuIndia, uye nhamba iyoyo inotarisirwa kukura sezvo India iri kuwedzera indasitiri yayo yemachira.
Muindasitiri yembatya pasi rose, zvakajairika kuti vashandi vavharwe mumamiriro ezvinhu ehudzvinyiriri kusvikira vaita zvibvumirano. Asi muIndia, tsika yeroora-iyo inopfuurira kunyangwe zvakadaro hazvisi pamutemo-Inoita kuti vasikana vechidiki vanyanye kushungurudzwa nezvirongwa izvi. Neimwe nzira nekuda kweizvi, India ine mitemo yakasimba yekushandiswa kwevana: hazvisi pamutemo kuti vana vari pasi pemakore gumi nemana vashande mumafekitari imomo, uye vashandi vese vanofanirwa kubhadharwa zvakapetwa kaviri pamaawa ekuwedzera. Zvisinei, kuisa mitemo iyoyo ndeimwe nyaya. Mafekitari anoita nhamburiko huru kuvanza miitiro isiri pamutemo. (Aruna anoyeuka kuti paizouya vaongorori—akanga asingazivi kana vakanga vari vaongorori vehurumende kana kuti vekambani—vatariri vefekitari vaizosundira vasikana vaduku mubapiro rinokosha. Kana vakawanikwa, vakaudzwa kuti vaiva nemakore 14.)
Uye vashandi pachavo havatombo taura kushungurudzwa, muchidimbu nekuti vazhinji vanobva kuboka rakaderera, Kusanganisira dalit, kana kuti vasingabatiki. "Vanhu havatore nyaya idzi nehutungamiri hwefekitori nekuti vanotya kurasikirwa nemari uye vanotya kutsiva nekuti ivo vari panjodzi munzanga," anodaro Heather White, anoshanda paHarvard's Center for ethics akaongorora pasi rose. maketani ekupa zvipfeko. Mukubvunzurudzwa kwake nevashandi vefekitari, anoti akanzwa nezve "nyaya dzakawanda dzekushungurudzwa kwepabonde, izvo zvinowanzoitika mumamiriro evashandi vefekitari zvinoreva kubatwa chibharo."
Muna 2012, boka rekodzero dzevashandi Fair Labor Association rakaongorora nyaya dzevashandi makumi manomwe nevasere vesumangali avo, pamafekitari akawanda, vakanga vazvipira kushanda kwemakore matatu. Pavasikana 34 vasina kupedza makondirakiti avo, 4 vakafa netsaona kana kurwara, 11 vakamanikidzwa kuenda nemhaka yezvinetso zvoutano, 17 vakaendeswa kumusha nevabereki vavo, uye 2 vakasiiwa vega. Makumi maviri akanga achiri kushanda panguva yekubvunzurudzwa kweFLA, uye makumi maviri nemana akanga apedza zvibvumirano zvavo. Mamwe maNGO akati wandei akatsinhira kuti zvinowanzoitika kuti vanasikana vasapedzisire makondirakiti avo uye kuti tsaona dzepabasa uye kunyange rufu hazvishamisi.
Kunyange hazvo vamwe vevashandi vakaudza vabvunzurudzo kuti vakashungurudzwa nevakuru vebasa, vanyori vegwaro iri vakati kashoma kuti vanasikana vamhan’are nyaya dzakadai nekuti kuita izvi kunogona kukanganisa muchato wavo—uye hazviitike kuti vauye kumatare edzimhosva. Kunyange zvazvo nyaya dzokubatwa chibharo dzakashumwa dzave dzichiwedzera, mwero wokubatwa nemhosva—isingasviki 27 muzana—wakawedzera. yakanyura mumakore gumi apfuura, uye vanyajambwa vanoenda kumapurisa vanozivikanwa kuva kubatwa chibharo navo zvakare.
Kunyangwe paine humbowo huri kukura hwekuti kushungurudzwa kwakajairika mumafekitori esumangali, makambani mazhinji ekuMadokero haasati abvisa tsika iyi kubva kumaketani ekupa. Boka guru rekutengeserana reAmerica, United States Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel (USA-ITA), yakamanikidza vatengesi mune mamwe mativi enyika kuti vachenese miitiro yakashata yebasa; munguva pfupi yapfuura yakaita kuti Bangladesh ipfuure a kusunga chirongwa chemakore mashanu kuwedzera nhamba yekuongorora nekuvandudza kudzidziswa kwekuchengetedza kwevashandi. Zvakadaro pandakabvunza Samantha Sault, mutauriri weboka, nezvemafekitori esumangali, akati, "Hatina kumboziva nezvemabasa amunotsanangura." Akawedzera kuti zvainzwika se "kuvhiringidza."
Sinnathamby Prithiviraj murume akafinyama, akaremerwa anotungamira Care-T, boka rakabatsira Aruna kuwana basa rake roukoti. Kwemakore gumi anga achishanda nevasikana vesumangali kubva kuhofisi yake kuCoimbatore; akabatsira 1,600 XNUMX vavo kuwana basa mushure mekunge vadzoka kubva kubasa mumafekitari. Kana ndichida kuona kuti vasikana vanobva kupi, anoti, ndinofanira kuenda kumusha weAruna, kwaakaona uptick mukutsvaga munguva pfupi yapfuura. Anoti ndinofanira kutsvaga "vasikana vane zvidhakwa uye vanababa vakashaikwa," nokuti "ndiko kune vanotora basa."
Takasimuka mangwanani akatevera, tichityaira takananga kumaodzanyemba tichipfuura nomumigwagwa mikuru tichipfuura zvitoro zvisina kupera uye mafekitari emachira. Kusvika mumusha — nzvimbo inorimwa tii yevagari ve71,000, ine misha yakaungana yakatenderedza nzvimbo makumi mashanu nenhanhatu — inoda mutyairi asingatyi anotarisira kuchinjika kwetsvimbo pakutendeuka kwakasimba kwebvudzi uye kushivirira kune hutano kune 56-tsoka-kukwirisa kuwana. Takaramba tichimisa motokari kuti mutungamiri wedu arutse. Patinosvika, tinoona tii ichitumbuka mu-neon-girini tufts yakananga kunze kwaDr. Seuss. Vazhinji vevashandi vetii vanobva kune vepasi uye vanoita mari inosvika madhora matatu pazuva; zvinoda muhoro wemwedzi wose kungoshongedza mwana mabhuku neyunifomu yechikoro. “Hatigoni kupa vana vedu vose zvokudya nechikoro, saka tinorega ramangwana remwana mumwe nokuda kwevamwe,” vamwe amai vanondiudza kudaro. "Mumabasa umu, vasikana vanofarirwa, saka vasikana endai."
Pandinosvika pahofisi yeCare-T mumusha macho, ndinokwaziswa naJulia Jayrosa, murongi wesangano ane makore 31 okukura, mukamuri duku rakazara nevakadzi gumi nevaviri nevana vavo. Jayrosa anoita kunge ane simba risingaverengeki uye anotaura nekukasira zvekuti ndinotomukumbira kuti ambodzikama, anozviitira kuti azive zviri kuitika mumba mese mumusha umu. Anondiudza kuti kune vasikana vanosvika mazana masere vanobva pano vanoshanda muhurongwa hwesumangali izvozvi. MaAgents anopihwa madhora makumi matatu nemana kusvika pamadhora makumi mashanu pamushandi wese wavanopinza basa kumagayo, anodaro, achindiratidza posita yepingi inopenya yakagoverwa mumusha muna Chivabvu. Inovimbisa kuti mumafekitari, vanasikana vachawana dzidzo yenguva isina kuzara, dzimba dzokurara dzakazvimirira, uye muhoro wakanaka. Jayrosa anotya vamiririri uye anotya kuti vangangovhara bhizinesi rake diki: Anopa nzvimbo kune gumi nevaviri vaimboshanda mufekitari kuti vashandise hunyanzvi hwavo hwekusona uye vatengese zvipfeko zvavo mumusha. Chinonyanya kumunetsa iye zvino kuunganidza mari inokwana kuti awanire vakadzi vacho imba yekugezera, kuti vasarambe vachipinda musango.
Ndinoswera naJayrosa tichitaura nevanhu vemuraini vanopinda nekubuda muhofisi. Ndinosangana nevaichimbova vasikana vashanu vechisumangali, pamwe chete naamai vatatu nababa vakaendesa vanasikana vavo kumafekitari. Ndinotaura nemumwe mukadzi akaita miscarriage kune imwe fekitori nekuti aifanira kumira kwenguva yakareba mukupisa, uye mumwe anondiudza kuti kushungurudzwa pabonde kwakazara mufekitori yake, asi "iwe unofanirwa kuve wakangwara zvekusawira pasi nekuda kwavo. tricks."
Kwasviba, ndinosangana nemumwe musikana anonzi Selvi, ane mhuri inondikoka kumba kwavo. Pamakore makumi maviri, Selvi anoratidzika kunge asiri mukuru kupfuura mudzidzi wepakati wekuAmerica, uye anorema makirogiramu makumi masere neshanu. Anonyara, akanyarara, uye haawanzo tarisa maziso. Anoti akapedza makore maviri apfuura achiita zvekusona fekitari. Mushandi webasa akamuvimbisa 20 rupees (inenge $85) pashifiti, asi anoti aingowana 250 (inenge $4) pamwe chete neovhataimu yemarupee 150 paawa—kunyange zvazvo zvinodiwa nomutemo zveovhataimu zviri kaviri muripo wake paawa, kana kuti 2.50 rupees paawa.
Kambani ine fekitari yaishanda Selvi yakapa zvipfeko kuMothercare, Walmart, H&M, uye Nzvimbo Yevana. H&M inoshuma kuti haina kuwana humbowo hwevashandi vesumangali muongororo yayo ichangoburwa yemafekitori matatu ekambani iyi. Muna 2011, zvisinei, boka rekodzero dzevashandi Anti-Uranda Nyika dzese yakaona kuti kambani inotarisira fekitari yaishanda Selvi yaibhadhara vashandi mari isingasviki hafu yezvavakanga vavimbiswa, dzimwe nguva ichivanyima imwe mari kutozosvikira vashandi vapedza zvibvumirano zvavo, vachiongorora kufona kwevasikana, uye ichiramba kuti vabereki vavashanyire. vana. (Kambani inoramba izvi, uye Selvi akabvumirwa kutora muripo wake uye kutora zororo kubva kufekitari muna March nemhaka yezvinetso nethyroid yake. Anoronga kudzokera kubasa nokukurumidza kana achinge ava nani.)
Sezvo usiku hunoswedera, mukuru mukuru womusha anotiudza nechimbichimbi kuti tinofanira kudzokera kunzvimbo huru. “Mhute iri kuuya,” anonyevera kudaro. "Varume vanouya kumba vachinwa doro panguva ino. Vane ruzha. Zvakare, ingwe dzinoburuka." Ndinoda kumubvunza kuti chii chine ngozi, varume vakadhakwa kana ingwe, asi ari nhanho imwe mberi kwangu: "Nzou. Ndinoti, "Zvakafanana nesango!" Mutyairi wangu anoita seakuda kundidzipa. "Hazvina kufanana nesango is sango,” anodaro achibva arova gonhi.
Kudzokera kuhotera yangu usiku ihwohwo, ndinoongorora sutukesi yangu, ndichitsvaga chinhu chisinganyanyi kunhuwa chekuzopfeka mangwana. Ndinowana T-shirt yebrown yandakatora kuUrban Outfitters. Nekubata kwekutya, ndinotsvaga seams yezita remugadziri. Inoti "Made in Indonesia," saka ndinogona kuva nechokwadi kuti haina kugadzirwa nemumwe wevasikana vandambobvunzurudza. Asi nyangwe zvakaitwa kuIndia, dai ndakafonera kambani iyi ndichiedza kuona kuti yabva pachigayo chipi, zvaisaita kuti ndione kana vashandi vesumangali varimo. Makambani emuIndia anoshanda nesimba kuti vanyarare maitiro avo ekushanda, vachivanza vashandi kubva kune vanoongorora uye kutyisidzira maNGO anofumura maitiro avo. "Iyi haisi USA kana EU," anodaro Care-T's Prithiviraj. "Hapana kuchengetedzwa kwemuviri kwatiri isu nevashandi vedu."
Dana Liebelson mutori wenhau mukati Amai Jones Washington bureau. Basa rake rakaonekwawo mukati The Week, NGUVA's Battleland, Zvakashata, ZvimweWords uye Yahoo! News.
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